Who makes a real good knife sharpener.

I,ve looked at some electric models, and some manual, but haven,t any experience with any, other than the ceramic one my Cabela fish filet knife came with.
 
I have never used a "one shot" type sharpener that I like. Been using a Lansky. Doesn"t take much to learn how to use it well. $30 give or take some.
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I agree wholeheartly, a good stone and some oil does wonders, I also carry a strip of emery cloth that plumbers use folded in my wallet to use in a emergency. Generally hone my pocket knife on my boot sides to put a finish on them. I am using my third Old Timer since I graduated from HS 47 yrs ago. Wore 2 out and my son said they most likely will take this last one from me in a nursing home. My grandmother used to sharpen her butcher knives on the top of a crock.
 
I gotta agree with the lanskey works great and to make things REALLY sharp you need a strop,basicly a leather strap coated with jewelers rouge that makes a blade shaving sharp my strop is an old leather belt that i out grew(i think it shrunk)
 
If it's already close a crock stick or the ceramic out of an HID lamp works well. If it's dull use a carbide "steel" or scraper first. Crock sticks are cheap, a dozen was about $4 from Smoky Mountain....
 

I have been using a stone that is fine on one side and finer on the other for years. Haven't used oil for years though, since I read an article about a microscopic test done by an independent testing lab that showed smoother sharper edges dry than wet. Yeah I know, all kinds of people insist on oil for lots of reasons.
 
The small cutoff wheels sold for Dremmel tools make a great sharpener. Just use the side of the wheel against the edge of the blade. A few well placed strokes will do it.
 
Ford! A guy I worked with used the top edge of the work truck window. I've got to admit, it worked; even on serrated blades. Don't think I'd do that to my truck, though.
 
All the fancy smansky rigs are for those who can't learn to use stone & leather.
If you can't master them, then spend your $ and take that route......free country......for now.
 
Overpriced gadjets.A 2 buck Sears Axe stone will sharpen any thing.Ive had a sharpening shop since 1970.
 
Oil for man made stones, water for natural stones.Stones will clog. Dry grinding wheels have to be dressed to get rid of metal build up.You can pick up good sharpening stones on a salt water beach.
 
For manual use I would say diamond stones from DMT or smith. The cut way faster than stones and don't loose their shape. Well worth the money.

Otherwise I just bought one of those knife and tool sharpeners made by Darex. It uses sanding belts for sharpening. Really works fast and is easy to get an edge ready to shave with in a minute or two.

I have a lansky and it works ok but is very slow to setup and use. Would not recomend it for that reason.
 
Just got a Smith diamond stone from Walmart- package was opened, and the instructions were missing, so they knocked 25% off. I've probably got 6 or more different sharpeners around here, but this one will sharpen my toughest knives in half the time in comparison. Very good sharpener, and cost about $15.
 
(quoted from post at 11:44:46 01/03/12) I,ve looked at some electric models, and some manual, but haven,t any experience with any, other than the ceramic one my Cabela fish filet knife came with.

I got a white ceramic rod and it works likle a dream. 3 or 4 passes on it and the edge is great. It will put an edge on a junk knife as well.
 
It's always amusing to to hear how the "old pros"handle things without useing available aids and imply that those who use the aids are wuzy. A Southwestern Vaquero Masculino could laugh at those who waste time sharpening a knife by any means while he bites the nuts off half dozen animals. I know a painter who can stick putty knives as well as anyone I've seen with throwing daggers. Everyone has at least one skill not shared by the majority. The Lanskey or Smith will do a fine job the first time you use it. Just for the record,once a proper edge is formed by any method all that is required for quite a while is to striaghten the edge which is exactly what ceramics,butcher's steels and leather strops do. Very little if any metal is removed,the edge is just stood upright and alighned evenly.
 
By "axe stone" I assume you mean a cheap carborundum stone, since that's all Sears sells. The idea you can put as fine an edge with a carborundum stone as with a good waterstone is preposterous.
 
Axe stones have a coarse and a fine side.I can touch up the planer blades with an axe stone in between machine grindings.Water stones are a swindle designed to seperate suckers from their money.An Arkansas or Pike stone will sharpen most tools just fine.A belt grinder with a 100 grit belt does a good job on scissors and drills IF you have the skill.
 
Lansky - helps me maintain the same edge. Easy and repeatable. Can be super sharpened on a leather strop if needed. I only use the leather for my broadheads.

I do have a stone I carry in the truck tool box for when I need a quick edge.
 
One of the best stones Ive ever used was a foot treadle driven Ohio sand stone wheel.It cut fast and put on a good edge.Farmers used them long before gimmick sharpeners like the Lansky.I have a small 10 inch motor driven wheel that runs in water to sharpen stainless steel knives.The old ways still work fine.
 
I think the key is to learn how to do it properly. I have never learned and I am considering a Lansky system. I've always marveled at those who can put a fine edge on a knife freehand with a stone but I always wondered how they knew at what angle to hold the blade etc. or if there were a way to get it sharper or to last longer. I'm guessing that a system like a Lansky would be better because of the consistency you can get with it.
 
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