Winterizing the Fergie.

Lance J.

Member
I'm looking for advice on properly storing my gas powered TO-35 during the winter months. I am planning on, at a minimum, changing the oil and filter, airing up the tires, then filling up the tank with fresh fuel and a healthy dose of Sta-Bil. Then, I'll run the tractor for some time to circulate the oil and treated fuel, afterwards closing the fuel bowl shut-off.
I don't know yet if I will remove the battery and bring it inside. I was figuring on starting and running the tractor every 2 weeks or so, but now I'm wondering if it might be best to just remove the battery and let it hibernate. What do you guys usually do?
 
I"d also check the anti-freeze for correct degree of protection. If in doubt, drain it, and fill with 50/50 anti and water.
I have 4 of the small trinkle chargers that are left on the battery all the time (except when using tractor) they keep battery topped off and only kick on when needed.
A couple of tips, when parking tractor, put tranny and Hi-Lo shifter into neutral position.
And, when starting, push AND hold clutch down when turning over, this eliminates the poor old battery from turning over engine and gears in cold tranny fluid. Even when she starts, keep clutch down for several minutes and let up very slowly. If cold enoung, the thick tranny oil will stall out engine if clutch is left up too abruptly.
Lots more tips coming, I bet. Mark
 
I leave mine out under a trap. The best I can do right now.

I do not change the engine oil, I do that as part of my spring sprucing up.

I do try to fill the tank with stablized fuel and run it through like you say.

I remove the Battery and bring it indoors to keep it from freezing.

I also check the radiator fluid with a $2.00 tester for protection range and adjust as/if needed.

I greese all the fittings.

I cover the shifter with a pail to keep water off.

and I also jack the tractor up and support on jack stands to get the weight off the tires.

Thats about it.
 
Was reading up on the TO history, TO-20's were used in an Antarctic Exposition. I plan on using mine in the winter, I bet it does fine.
 
Here is what the TO-35 manual has:
1) Wash and clean
2) remove rust and retouch paint
3) Remove air cleaner, wash and fill with new oil
4) Lube all fittings
5) change oil and oil filter
6) Drain transmission case clean magnetic plugs and refill with clean oil
7) clean and repack wheel bearings
8) check oil in steering gear and PS in equipped
9) start engine and run to op temp.
10)Inspect for worn parts and order from an authorized Massey dealer.
11)Drain wash and clean cooling system
12)Drain fuel from Tank
13)remove clean and reinstall fuel sediment bulb, fuel line and carburetor.
14)remove spark plugs and pour in 2-table spoons of oil in each calendar.
15)clean and regap spark plugs.
16)Turn over engine prior to reinstalling spark plugs
17)Cover ends of exhaust and breather pipe. (mice? - Jeff)
18)Remove Battery and keep in cool non-freezing place
19)Jack up tractor and put on sturdy blocks to take weight off tires
20) remove fluid from tires if it can freeze
21 cover tractor with a tarpaulin.

Whew that’s alota work...

I forgot I also place a mesh bag with mothballs on the battery tray, and in the fan cowling to help keep the mice nests out.

Only thing I do not do on this list (except all the general maintenance items is the oil in the cylinders.
 
The Fergies used in the artic were a little modified. But yes they were TEA-20's. I think his question was more about what to do to prep a tractor for long term storage... ie over winter, rather than will it run in the winter.

You are correct. With slight modification in the oils used they work will in cold weather.
 
Lance, All of the posts are good, are you going to use your tractor over the winter? If so I would do all Jeff said except drain the gas. Do you have real cold winters where you live? A mag. base oil heater is helpfull on cold starts.Use a block of wood and a C clamp to hold down the clutch pedal. I hope this helps. John
 
I do one thing differently. I don"t change the oil before storing. I do that in the spring when I"m ready to use it again. Admittedly I have to start it on the old oil and run it until it is warm before I can drain the old oil in the spring, and that may not be ideal, but I just don"t use these old tractors enough to justify changing it in the fall and then again in the spring before use, and I always want to change it in the spring anyway as oil sitting for a long time deteriorates. I see no reason to worry about leaving the old oil in the tractor in the winter when it isn"t used anyway.
 
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