I"m putting my h back together tonight. I filled the radiator and ever place I have an original 2 wire clamp the dam hoses leak. These are new clamps. Am I doing something wrong or are these clamps crap? Did the original 2 wire clamps also cause problems? I never have trouble with the ratchet style clamps. thanks for suggestions!
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johns48jdb
Well-known Member
use a indian head gasket cemewnt on every rubber hose connection andd you'll never ever have a leak. you might put the screw type on first and let the gasket sealer set over night and then put the wire ones on for dress.
That may stop leaks ,but it also will likely make the hose near impossible to remove in the future without cutting it off.
If you need a sealer on radiator hoses then silicone sealer is my choice. Some types are not for antifreeze so read the labels, but some don't say either. Lets it slide together easy and years later it will release and let them come off. But you can't use it if your in a hurry because you should let it cure before final tightening.
If you need a sealer on radiator hoses then silicone sealer is my choice. Some types are not for antifreeze so read the labels, but some don't say either. Lets it slide together easy and years later it will release and let them come off. But you can't use it if your in a hurry because you should let it cure before final tightening.
James Tabor
Member
Just replaced my hoses and clamps. Used original old style clamps and they worked flawlessly. I suggest that you clean all conections by lightly sanding off any old paint or dirt. Make sure you have the correct size hose, PBrownings hose chart on his H Web page will help you here. One thing I noticed when replacing mine was that you can and should tighten them more than you think with out digging into the hose. I got mine real tight, let in set a few minutes then tightened again. No leaks and no damage to the hose. Good Luck!
I am very familar with that hose chart as I'm the one who sent it to Pat. LOL It is very usefull.
The # 1 reason I suspose I HATE ! those clamps is from having to fight so many upon removal. Rusted fine threads,buggered up small slots,worse in poor access conditions.
I REALLY like the worm drive clamps with a hex head on them as you can gain access in tight spots with a ratchet. Air intake hose on a 2 cyl. is a #1 spot NOT to use wire clamps. You can crank -em tight if needed at any time. Stainless Steel ones great for removal ! Even better yet are if you get the ones with an extra inside strip to protect the hose from the worm slots.
The # 1 reason I suspose I HATE ! those clamps is from having to fight so many upon removal. Rusted fine threads,buggered up small slots,worse in poor access conditions.
I REALLY like the worm drive clamps with a hex head on them as you can gain access in tight spots with a ratchet. Air intake hose on a 2 cyl. is a #1 spot NOT to use wire clamps. You can crank -em tight if needed at any time. Stainless Steel ones great for removal ! Even better yet are if you get the ones with an extra inside strip to protect the hose from the worm slots.
James Tabor
Member
Of course all of this depends on what ones intended use for the tractor is. Just as a good old work horse then the "Incorrect" clamps make since. However, for a nicely restored show tractor the "Original Style" looks the way Deere intended them to.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder !
I firmly believe that not everything Deere did nor any other company for that matter was in anyones best interest or the best available. These things are more driven by cost cutting.
The "correct police" can po-po me and likely do.
But there are several things I have done and will continue to do to correct some of the manufactures poor engineering.
I firmly believe that not everything Deere did nor any other company for that matter was in anyones best interest or the best available. These things are more driven by cost cutting.
The "correct police" can po-po me and likely do.
But there are several things I have done and will continue to do to correct some of the manufactures poor engineering.
Restoration in General -- Just some observations!
My tractor took "Best in Show" with the band type water hose clamps. Very few folks besides the tractor's owner will have a clue! It's workanship and attention to detail that count.
Try this sometime. Lay down on your back under a restored tractor and look all around. You don't want to find paint over top of old matted grease, fasteners with the heads either unpainted or burred up, or leaks of any kind. Up under the PTO shield is another place to look for that "new" appearance, clean and 100% paint coated.
It is nice to observe clean, painted surfaces even up under the hood and above the fan shroud. You also do not want to see paint (overspray or otherwise) on black hoses or on brass parts of the fuel system.
The sheet metal fasteners should have a new, crisp appearance & no paint chips, no warps in the sheet metal, gauges can be the original white-faced ones, or genuine replacements from Deere -- but the rims should be painted green, and the list goes on. I appreciate a tractor I can roll out from under -- and have a wide smile on my face.
Other pet peaves are over-spray whether on tires or the radiator core. These indicate sloppy work (haste in preparation), and makes me look even harder for other workmanship shortcuts like in the seat, the steering wheel, or painted wiring! Magnetos shouldn't be painted, and all elements (other than wires & cables) of typical 6-Volt Delco systems should be painted glossy black.
Manifolds and other elements of the exhaust system are forgiving -- and can be special-coated, or simply painted green and then allowed to form routine "burn" appearances. I doubt that chrome-plated parts add any value other than in the eye of the owner, and judges are generally not impressed with clear-coat on vintage tractors. They appreciate a nice buffing job on the hood, but (after all) it IS a farm tractor! (PatB)
Restoration Site, JD H
My tractor took "Best in Show" with the band type water hose clamps. Very few folks besides the tractor's owner will have a clue! It's workanship and attention to detail that count.
Try this sometime. Lay down on your back under a restored tractor and look all around. You don't want to find paint over top of old matted grease, fasteners with the heads either unpainted or burred up, or leaks of any kind. Up under the PTO shield is another place to look for that "new" appearance, clean and 100% paint coated.
It is nice to observe clean, painted surfaces even up under the hood and above the fan shroud. You also do not want to see paint (overspray or otherwise) on black hoses or on brass parts of the fuel system.
The sheet metal fasteners should have a new, crisp appearance & no paint chips, no warps in the sheet metal, gauges can be the original white-faced ones, or genuine replacements from Deere -- but the rims should be painted green, and the list goes on. I appreciate a tractor I can roll out from under -- and have a wide smile on my face.
Other pet peaves are over-spray whether on tires or the radiator core. These indicate sloppy work (haste in preparation), and makes me look even harder for other workmanship shortcuts like in the seat, the steering wheel, or painted wiring! Magnetos shouldn't be painted, and all elements (other than wires & cables) of typical 6-Volt Delco systems should be painted glossy black.
Manifolds and other elements of the exhaust system are forgiving -- and can be special-coated, or simply painted green and then allowed to form routine "burn" appearances. I doubt that chrome-plated parts add any value other than in the eye of the owner, and judges are generally not impressed with clear-coat on vintage tractors. They appreciate a nice buffing job on the hood, but (after all) it IS a farm tractor! (PatB)
Restoration Site, JD H
Very well said,but I did chuckle a little when I read about no warped sheetmetal. These tractors showed all their die strech marks and spots weld dimples right from new.
I work at car dealer now and let me tell you some of these leave alot to be desired in the fit and finish department too.
There are an awful lot of tractor and car repaints by far exceeding their original finish.
I work at car dealer now and let me tell you some of these leave alot to be desired in the fit and finish department too.
There are an awful lot of tractor and car repaints by far exceeding their original finish.
James Tabor
Member
Exactly, attention to detail, knowledgable folks notice and appreciate it; those that don't have a clue don't really care.
James Tabor
Member
I had a friend that came in second in a two man race.
why no paint on the black hoses or brass fuel system parts( did they go after the paint originally at the factory)? wouldnt the radiator have gotten some overspray at the factory when it was produced ?Are these comments your preference or is that the way they looked when rolled off the assembly line. Just asking. bill m.
Bill -- so right you are on all counts. The basic issue I addressed was to guide a person preparing a tractor intended for show. Deere did produce some show tractors and you can bet good money that the painting job was much more precise. See below an excerpt from the JD-H Restoration Guide on this issue -- Pat
---------------------
FACTORY PAINTING -- Movies taken of John Deere factory operations during the JD "H" production era show that tractors were completely assembled (with temporary skeleton wheels), then run-in and tested on belt-drive dynometers for power level and fuel economy before being painted green. Subsequently, pre-painted (yellow) wheels were mounted as one of the last assembly activities. Some items were masked such as gauge lenses, light lenses and rear wheel axles, but things like fuel lines, carburetors, water hoses, etc., were not masked, and were painted.
Hidden areas such as underside of the hood or under the platform were left unpainted. After all, these tractors were built for work, not appearance. In fact, that movie showed a touch-up painter slopping paint with a brush onto tractors. So much for factory paint quality!
Doesn't this process sound a lot like a "Spruce up" paint job? So if you are doing a spruce up of this or another tractor, feel free to apply a "factory paint" job! Just don't paint rear axles or splines
Having outlined the crude factory paint jobs, one must point out that John Deere did occasionally make "show" tractors for expositions, shows, and fairs. These tractors were carefully detailed. Most restorers lean in this direction. ++++
---------------------
FACTORY PAINTING -- Movies taken of John Deere factory operations during the JD "H" production era show that tractors were completely assembled (with temporary skeleton wheels), then run-in and tested on belt-drive dynometers for power level and fuel economy before being painted green. Subsequently, pre-painted (yellow) wheels were mounted as one of the last assembly activities. Some items were masked such as gauge lenses, light lenses and rear wheel axles, but things like fuel lines, carburetors, water hoses, etc., were not masked, and were painted.
Hidden areas such as underside of the hood or under the platform were left unpainted. After all, these tractors were built for work, not appearance. In fact, that movie showed a touch-up painter slopping paint with a brush onto tractors. So much for factory paint quality!
Doesn't this process sound a lot like a "Spruce up" paint job? So if you are doing a spruce up of this or another tractor, feel free to apply a "factory paint" job! Just don't paint rear axles or splines
Having outlined the crude factory paint jobs, one must point out that John Deere did occasionally make "show" tractors for expositions, shows, and fairs. These tractors were carefully detailed. Most restorers lean in this direction. ++++
RandyB(MI)
Well-known Member
There are people in the car restoration bussiness that spend thousands and countless hours trying to doccument and duplicate factory flaws and assembly line "crayon markings". It seems to have paid off if the prices they are bringing are any indicator. To each his own but what I can't figure out is why the same people wouldn't be cought dead duplicating the wavey sheetmetal , mis-aligned body panels and orange-peely paint that they came with!What gives?? I've restored quite a few classic cars in my life and my opinion has always been to either duplicate ALL the flaws or correct ALL the flaws. The "correct police" who have chosen themselves as judge and jury as to WHICH flaws get fixed and which should be re-created MAKE ME SICK! DON'T tell me how good my flawless paint looks while marking me down for NOT having overspray on my firewall!! This is one reason I left the car world for antique tractors.
In as much as car collecting got ruined and you got sick of it, Tractor collecting is contaminated too ! The high and mighty and the crooks have ruined Gun ,Car and Tractor collecting ! A fellow collector sold out in the late 80's early 90's ? and When I asked him why that was his answer back then. And I saw it too and agree with him.
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