Wire Crimper Recommendation

M-MAN

Well-known Member
Location
Bostic, NC
Between old age and a bum shoulder I am in need of a better and longer wire crimper for automotive and tractor use. Looking at Thomas Betts and Klein but the descriptions I found don't give an accurate length. I would appreciate some suggestions along with their length.
 
I like channellocks or Klien. I have 2 pair of Klien. About $28 dollars. 9.5 inch HF sells for about one third the price.
cvphoto145328.jpg

Channellock 909 9.5-Inch Wire Crimping Tool Electrician's Terminal Crimp Pliers with Cutter are Designed for Insulated and Non-Insulated Connections Forged from High Carbon Steel Laser Heat-Treated Edges Last Longer Made in the USA
 
(quoted from post at 15:00:52 01/19/23)

A compound action/ratcheting crimper is the only way to go with the issues you mention and to do a factory-quality crimp!

There's many now available with quick-change jaws for whatever specific terminal you are working with. There's a HUGE variety of job-specific jaws available, I just ordered as set to crimp sparkplug wire terminals.

48ZyT5o.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/Astro-9477-Professional-Interchangeable-Tool/dp/B0045CUMLQ

Above is ONE mid-priced example, you can go from ebay prices to tool snob brands and prices, if you want.

There's also a wide variety of similar tools available that require a screwdriver to change jaws.https://i.imgur.com/48ZyT5o.jpg[/img:ff85219c8a]
 
Catch of the day
cvphoto145336.jpg

All is good in Florida.
I might give you a shout on my return trip.
Don't know when I'm going back to Indiana.
 
My Kleins are 10 overall with 8 handles. I have arthritic hands, and have no problem crimping 10 gauge connectors with them.
 

I'll second the ratcheting style wore out posted. Mine is just a single attachment for insulated terminals. When I use it I crimp it multiple times in different areas on the terminal for a nice uniform and complete crimp.
 
I recently bought a set at HF to replace my Betts set. I had two choices; HF's house brand or Doyle brand. The Doyle set was $18 and the HF set less than half that. Upon visual comparison, there was no doubt which one to get - the Doyle brand. The HF set were way too thick and clumsy-looking.

I found my Betts set -- two days after buying the Doyle set! :oops:

Did not know that Betts still in business. The set I have is several decades old and I will never give them up! If Betts is still anything like they used to be, it would be a good choice.

Wow! Can't believe how expensive they are. The cheapest one I've found is a used set on eBay for $29.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3942161390...bYSSufbt2K5M3EReh4fQH0X4ey|tkp:Bk9SR8C87Ny5YQ

New on Amazon for $78.
https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts...8&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF+O5021pAnSA==&sr=8-2
 
I started out nearly 50 years ago using a Thomas & Betts crimper. Still have it and it's still my favorite. I also have one like the Channellock in the pic below and like it too. Klein tools are also excellent.

I also have a ratchet type, but I only use that on larger cables (#6 & larger), kind of a PITA on smaller conductors.

T&B
Klein
Channellock

All good, doubt you can go far wrong with any of them.
 
M Man, a sparky friend of mine who has attended tool and flea markets and yard sales for YEARS have a friendly competition of who can find the most and cheapest T & B crimpers OUR ABSOLUTE FAVORITE BRAND. I have bought them for a buck up to ten or so cant hardly pass them up lol Best I recall they are around 9 inch models. T & B by far

John T
 
T&B for me too! I use the style that is intended for uninsulated lugs. Shrink tubing is used instead of plastic on the lugs. The one pictured by an earlier poster fits either, but only a narrow range of wire gauges.

The ones I use have two positions and cover a wide range but only uninsulated.

Works for me, as long as I remember, tubing first, lug last.
 
Begrudgingly I have to agree with George on this one. That style is the only kind I use anymore.

I also will only use the crimp-on lugs that have the heatshrink insulation. No more of those cheap hard plastic sleeved ones from the auto parts store.
 
Definitely a ratcheting, cycle controlled type as they help ensure a full crimp and are also handy since they can hold the terminal solidly while wrestling an unruly wire.

For non-professional use the HF and other cheap ones will be fine. If leverage is an issue, just weld on some handle extensions and plasti-dip or tape wrap.
 
The T&B crimpers I've seen have two tongue crimp dies, the Channellock crimpers pictured below have one tongue-type crimp die and one no-tongue die. Going by the book, a tongued die is used wit non-insulated terminals while the no-tongue die is used with insulated terminals. That said, I've known a number of electricians that use a tongued-type die on both insulated and non-insulated terminals.

Incidentally, the tongue is supposed to bear on the solid wall of the terminal barrel, not the brazed side of the barrel. T&B uses different color grips so that the user can tell at a quick which side of the pliers has the tongues. Colored shrink tubing works well for those who want to copy the T&B idea on other-brand crimp pliers.
 
(reply to post at 19:32:12 01/19/23)
The ones George posted or even the really cheapo stamped steel ones can work.

I have gone to crimping by holding the crimper handle against an immovable object like the work bench top and then putting my weight on the one handle.
Being carefulf to not let the crimpers flop over sideways.
 
Thanks guys. I decided to order the Thomas and Betts 112. The Klein's were half the price but I didn't like the way they were finished. Looked to me like the sharp crimp edges would cut the insulation.

I think the ratchet style would be nice for the bench but would be very awkward under a dash.
 
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