wireing issues...

Don-Wi

Well-known Member
How many of you guys out there have spent a good chunk of time on a wireing project, all goes well, you put it together, and then a fuse blows?

I just had that happen. I added another set of lights both front & back on our 1855 Oliver, with a 3 position push-pull switch so I can either have all 4 on, or just the back 2 on at any given time, and have it separate from the other lights, on their own fused circuit.

It all worked fine, did one last check before I put the dash together again, and now it blows fuses as soon as i pull the switch. I think I may have pinched a wire in there. I have a few suspicions as to where, either the fuse holder or the switch itself, because I didn't plan very well ahead of time on clearance from the throttle and over/under linkages. The more I think about it, the more I think it may be the fuse holder wires are touching, but I still have a gut feeling it's the switch too because that gave me troubles when I did the test fitting. I was able to make it shorter under the dash, but I don't know exactly how close it was to everything else...

Hopefully I don't have to drill more holes in the dash, but if I do I'll just have to get some plugs and move on... such is life... I'll just have to take a few hours tomorrow morning to get it all straightened out.

P1000575.jpg



Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Don, I just finished up repainting my 1650 and I upgraded the lighting also. I added two lights to the front, up by the radiator. I wired these into the normal light circuit. I used a new 3 position switch and it is wired so the first position of the switch is 2 new headlights only, second position of the switch is all 6 lights. I am running all of this on a 20 amp fuse. No problems here. I would guess you have a wire shorted out somewhere too. Hope you get it fixed, it sure is nice to have the extra light.
 
I took off the big rubber boot over the steering wheel w/ the rest of the dash screwed tight yet, and I found the problem. With the steering column in certain positions, it was hitting the switch and causing a short.

I moved the switch to where I had the toggle in the dash and it cleared the column, but then the throttle lever hit the bottom of it and I couldn't get those last 200 rpm's of the engine (full pto speed) so I ended up doing what I wasn't too crazy of, and I mounted it in a bigger pre-drilled hole and used washers to shim it down. Atleast now they all work.

BTW: I am using a 25 amp fuse on the original lights w/ 4 headlights and the 1 rear work light, and a 20 amp fuse on the 4 additional lights. (2 more in the front of the fenders, 2 on the rops where the flashers were supposed to be)

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Did you add another rear work light? I know those original ones on the Ollies leave a little bit to be desired.... I've now got 3 on the back. 2 up high on the canopy, and the original on the fender.

The way the lights were on the 1755 (4 position rotary switch), was the 1st position was work lights (all except flashers and the red tail light), the secon position was 4 forward and the flashers & tail, and the last was flashers and the 2 on the fenders.

Our 1855 is the same on the 1st 2, but the last postion is just the flashers and tail. It always irks me because I know that there is supposed to be 1 pair of lights on with that last position, because all the rest are like that too. I was gonna work on that issue as well while I was in there, but I hardly ever use just 2 headlights on the road anyway, even during the day. I wanna be as visible as possible.

I upgraded the lights on my 1600 as well, but I still only have 2 headlights. I drilled holes in the fenders for flashers and added the extra wire when I made up the light harness for it. I even kept the new wires the right colors, and shades of that color. Had to buy some wire here & some there, but it looks nice.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
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