Wisconsin TFD bore question

Dave41A

Member
I started at "Implement" alley but am re-posting here to see if this can get a different set of eyes.

I'm working on a Wisconsin TFD for my NH66 baler. I bought the baler at auction several years ago and have baled for maybe 5 years with it. Anyway, the engine has some severe oil leaks and is hard to start, so I thought I would tear it down and do at least a re-ring, hone, and new gaskets throughout. I am not looking for a restoration, just a better running engine.

Before ordering rings I made the following measurements on cylinders 1 and 2, both in-line with and across the crankshaft:

Cyl 1, with crankshaft: Top 3.2718, Middle 3.2693, Bottom 3.2681
Cyl 1, across crankshaft: Top 3.2719, Mid 3.2709, Bottom 3.2681

Cyl2, with crankshaft: Top 3.2725, Mid 3.2711, Bottom 3.2692
Cyl2, across crankshaft: Top 3.2739, Mid 3.2639, Bottom 3.2687

My first guess is this looks like a 0.020 overbore. Is anyone familiar with the tolerances for these engines? Am I due for a 0.030 overbore?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
I started at "Implement" alley but am re-posting here to see if this can get a different set of eyes.

I'm working on a Wisconsin TFD for my NH66 baler. I bought the baler at auction several years ago and have baled for maybe 5 years with it. Anyway, the engine has some severe oil leaks and is hard to start, so I thought I would tear it down and do at least a re-ring, hone, and new gaskets throughout. I am not looking for a restoration, just a better running engine.

Before ordering rings I made the following measurements on cylinders 1 and 2, both in-line with and across the crankshaft:

Cyl 1, with crankshaft: Top 3.2718, Middle 3.2693, Bottom 3.2681
Cyl 1, across crankshaft: Top 3.2719, Mid 3.2709, Bottom 3.2681

Cyl2, with crankshaft: Top 3.2725, Mid 3.2711, Bottom 3.2692
Cyl2, across crankshaft: Top 3.2739, Mid 3.2639, Bottom 3.2687

My first guess is this looks like a 0.020 overbore. Is anyone familiar with the tolerances for these engines? Am I due for a 0.030 overbore?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
I'm all for keeping "classic" stuff running, but at this point is would make economic sense to replace the obsolete Whisky with a Harbor Freight "670 Predator engine".

You can't begin to OH the old engine for the $950 the new engine will cost, and it will have electric start!
 
Wore out: You're thinking like I'm thinking. Do you think I need to go that big? Would the 15.8hp 459cc be enough? TFD was rated at just under 15. The predator would need a smaller drive pulley because it runs at 3600rpm instead of 2600.
 
Wore out: You're thinking like I'm thinking. Do you think I need to go that big? Would the 15.8hp 459cc be enough? TFD was rated at just under 15. The predator would need a smaller drive pulley because it runs at 3600rpm instead of 2600.
I can't offer any experience as to how well/smoothly the one cylinder Predator would power your baler, but I can tell you I have been well satisfied with the "670's" I have used in two garden tractor repowers.

With the larger engine you could run it at a slower speed and still have plenty of power. Quite a difference in price, though, the big engine is $500 more.

Good luck with however you decide to proceed!
 
I started at "Implement" alley but am re-posting here to see if this can get a different set of eyes.

I'm working on a Wisconsin TFD for my NH66 baler. I bought the baler at auction several years ago and have baled for maybe 5 years with it. Anyway, the engine has some severe oil leaks and is hard to start, so I thought I would tear it down and do at least a re-ring, hone, and new gaskets throughout. I am not looking for a restoration, just a better running engine.

Before ordering rings I made the following measurements on cylinders 1 and 2, both in-line with and across the crankshaft:

Cyl 1, with crankshaft: Top 3.2718, Middle 3.2693, Bottom 3.2681
Cyl 1, across crankshaft: Top 3.2719, Mid 3.2709, Bottom 3.2681

Cyl2, with crankshaft: Top 3.2725, Mid 3.2711, Bottom 3.2692
Cyl2, across crankshaft: Top 3.2739, Mid 3.2639, Bottom 3.2687

My first guess is this looks like a 0.020 overbore. Is anyone familiar with the tolerances for these engines? Am I due for a 0.030 overbore?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
We replaced out Wisconsin engine on a big Case baler with a PTO gear box off a Allis Chalmers Pull type Combine. Baler is long gone but I think I have at least 2-3 right angle gear boxes in the junk pile. Much easier to deal with than keeping the engine running on hot days??
 
Thanks. I picked up the "predator" 429cc engine today. I use a Farmall H as my baling tractor, and without live PTO and limited HP, running tractor and baler is tough. I have heard of others doing it, but not me. I like old iron but won't miss the Wisconsin too much. It was hard to start and very loud. Having an engine on the baler is nice, though, as I can change tractor speed and it just keeps chugging away. We'll see how well the 429cc takes the place of the TFD.
 
To finish this story, I got the 459cc Predator installed (not 429). I used a 3.5 inch pulley to try and slow things down. But the Predator still runs too fast, so I can only go to half throttle because I don't want to overspeed the old baler. But the engine handles the baler just fine. Much quieter than the old Wisconsin, especially when hitting a heavy windrow. The TFD would bog down and really 'bark.' But the Predator doesn't seem to slow down at all. I had some broken bales which I threw right into the feed auger and it gobbled them right up no problem. I stalled the Wisconsin doing that, but it was a pretty tired engine.

One big difference is weight. The TFD was over 200lbs, but the Predator is only about 80. So with a chute full of bales the whole thing wants to tip backwards. The engine is also wider, so the access cover over the plunger crank hits the air filter if I try to open it. I'll remove the hinge bolts at the rear and just lift it off that way to grease the crank.
 
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