Won't start.

[Twisted_Steel]

Replaced my burnt out ballast resistor. Still no spark. I just ordered a new coil, I pick it up tomorrow afternoon. No fire at the plugs, so the coil will be an easy and inexpensive fix...if that fixes it.
I'm going out of town tomorrow to pick up my pulverizer so I can finish fixing my yard and I would love for this thing to fire up and run like it did last week after the new coil is installed.

 

[Jim.ME]

Info helps people help you.

What exactly are you working on?

Is it a 6 or 12 volt system? Ballast resistor indicates it might be something for a 6 to 12 conversion.

Have you done some voltage readings around the system, if so what were the readings and where?

Or is this just replacing parts, hoping to hit the problem?

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Sorry, yes I left some out.
Yes 12 volt conversion. It was like that when I bought it. 12 volts on battery and 12 volts on hot side of coil. But no spark at the plug on any wire.

 

[Jim.ME]

Do you know if the coil is for 6 volts or 12 volts? What does it ohm at between the small primary terminals?

Ground a test light lead on the block, put the probe on the distributor side primary terminal of the coil. Does the light flash on and off as the engine is being cranked over? If no flashing and off the points are not working.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

It looks like a mid 70's style coil from a Mustang or something. No points to get to.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Crap.. didn't tell the ohms. 2.3 between primary terminals

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Rechecked... 1.5 ohms with meter set at 200. 8.28 between primary hot terminal and center tower with meter set at 20k ohms.
I'm thinking it should be between 5,000 and 10,000 @ 20k

 

[Jim.ME]

You have to remove the rotor button and the dust cover. It will have either points or an EI module under the dust cover.

2.3 ohms is high for a 6 volt coil and low for a 12 volt coil. Did you have the wire unhooked when i checking?

 

[Jim.ME]

Rechecked... 1.5 ohms with meter set at 200. 8.28 between primary hot terminal and center tower with meter set at 20k ohms.
I'm thinking it should be between 5,000 and 10,000 @ 20k

1.5 ohms is right for a 6-volt coil and it needs a ballast resistor for use in a 12 volt system.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Yes hot side removed

 

[Jim.ME]

Remove the rotor button and dust cover so we can see what is inside that distributor.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

It's been so long since I worked on a points fired ignition, I didn't know they had dust covers

 

[Twisted_Steel]

I bumped the starter over and the points are barely moving.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

What's the gap supposed to be set at? If memory serves, .045 or about the thickness of a matchbook cover.

 

[Jim.ME]

.020" would be nearer right as a guess, that this is a continental gas engine. You need to tell what the engine is so we can look for the right specs. I do not find in any of your posts where you have identified the actual tractor model or engine.

The picture is not the best, but the contacts of those points does not look good to me. I would replace them based on the picture.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

1950 TO20 Continental Z120 engine. I didn't think the points looked that good either. Maybe when the ballast resistor fried it also cooked the points. I'll grab a set of those tomorrow as well.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Sorry for the "rookie" replies and incomplete info. I'm trying to go on memory from 40+ years ago on gap specs and what not.
How much trouble just to switch it over to electronic ignition?

 

[Jim.ME]

Sorry for the "rookie" replies and incomplete info. I'm trying to go on memory from 40+ years ago on gap specs and what not.
How much trouble just to switch it over to electronic ignition?

I believe in one thing at a time. Get it running correctly on the points as you say it was before, then consider changing to EI.

If you do not have an Operator's Manual get one. Trying to remember 40+ years of specs often leads to incorrect info.

 

[Twisted_Steel]

Sure thing...and by the way...my head is slam full of bad info..lol

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi Twisted_Steel, welcome to the forum.
I hope you ordered a 12 volt coil so you can just eliminate the ballast resister. A match book cover is always a good ball park gap for points, but I think .025 is the correct gap. Today a lot of points you buy come with a little feeler gauge to set the gap. Don't forget to put a little lube on the distributor cam.