Wood Finish

[41106]

I have got a dining table that I have down to bare wood and am now going to stain. What type of clear finish such as polyurethane/laquer/etc... should I apply that would hold up to getting wet, warm/semi-hot containers, etc... without discoloring or anything of the sort? Thank you in advance.

 

[showcrop]

My Dad always used Zipguard polyurethane. Of course that was over thirty years ago.

 

[JML755]

(quoted from post at 07:17:50 03/17/11) I have got a dining table that I have down to bare wood and am now going to stain. What type of clear finish such as polyurethane/laquer/etc... should I apply that would hold up to getting wet, warm/semi-hot containers, etc... without discoloring or anything of the sort? Thank you in advance.

Well, don't use lacquer, first of all. Polyurethane is probably the most common finish used today that will do what you want. I've used both along with Tung oil on some stuff. Poly is the way to go. I usually sand in between 2 coats (120 grit or so) and then finish by going up to 600 or even 1200 or higher wet sanding. Sometimes I'll just use steel wool after the 2nd coat and use a wax. Depends on the project.

 

[notalotofarm]

do you plan to spray or brush on the finish?
do you want it to SHINE or be flat (Dull)?

There are several ways to attain the goal.
Scherwin Williams has a product called catalized varnish that is pretty tough, but most of the clerks that work there are not smart enuf to help.
When I finished furn. this is what we used for table tops.
Norris

 

[Christopher S.]

I run a small custom cabinet shop and I spray Magnalac Gloss. It is by far one of the best finishes I have sprayed. You can spray and then sand it in about 20 minutes. I typically spary, hit with 400 grit, spray, hit with 800 grit, then spray once more. I spray it through a harbor freight HVLP gun, and I usually thin it about 10% with walmart laquer thinner.

The only thing this product doesn't like, is high humidity days and big temperature swings for the first few hours after you spray.
First Website I came to that had it

 

[farmerjohn]

Poly for sure if you want a functioning table and not an antique for a museum. I refinished an antique oak kitchen table 16+ years ago,put on 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane, it has not been abused but no way pampered either, wife and I and 3 boys us it 3 times a day + for meals, writing, crafts, family living stuff. The finish is holding up fine.

 

[VaTom]

All finishes will degrade over time. Some are much easier to re-do than others. Your choice should depend on your plan for the future of the table.

Polyurethane and catalyzed finishes have no place on my furniture, very hard on the wood to remove when they degrade. Their popularity is due to the durability of the finish, until it degrades.

What was the finish you removed from your table? Did you sand it? My walnut dining table has a 35 yr old oil finish, suits us perfectly. Most guests assume it's a hard finish, like a lacquer.

 

[Brad Buchnan]

I have a set of end tables that I made from oak about 20 years ago and finished with polyurethane..Minwax if memory serves correctly.

Over the years they have been used as stepstools, plantstands exc.

To this day a wipe with a damp cloth will reveal a glossy finish.

Perhaps I just got lucky

Brad

 

[VaTom]

Not lucky, you did a good prep job. Probably followed the instuctions on the can.

20 yrs is not a long furniture life. Not even a very long finish life. Lacquers in good shape at 50 years are not uncommon. Your finish will degrade. They all do. And if you believe that the useful life of your tables is when the finish degrades, you've got what you wanted.

Otherwise, there's a refinishing problem that I wouldn't want. I have stripped polyurethane, have no intention of doing so again. Generally, the tougher the finish the more difficult the refinish.

TANSTAAFL

Had a conversation with a kitchen builder on another forum. He was thrilled with a new catalyzed finish. I asked how it could be removed. He thought maybe an angle grinder. Never occured to him that the finish would obsolete his work. Not necessarily a problem, depends on how you view your work.

That's why I asked the OP what he'd removed from his table, what his expectations were. That's the best way to select a finish. Obviously I think longer term than a current finish. There is no one right answer. That's like asking what's the best woodglue. Depends on what you're doing.

 

[Brad Buchnan]

Respectfully, the original topic was a finish that would hold up to some level of abuse.

A fine lacquer finish will hold up to about 1 cup of hot liquid being spilled on it.

I build furniture to interact with humans to include spills, kids toys, key rings thrown and generally being used.

Worrying about how hard a finish will be to strip in 50 years comes in pretty low on my list of priorities.

Good luck!

Brad

 

[VaTom]

Thanks, but I don't need luck. Neither does anybody else regarding wood finishes. Been doing this a long time, with a wide variety of applications, including hot water, which will not harm all lacquers.

You seem to think there is only one lacquer? Guess again. There's a variety of finishes for any application. Your polyurethane is not one I'd choose. There are catalyzed finishes, including catalyzed lacquers, that are more colorfast and durable than your Minwax polyurethane, which will certainly be in poor shape long before 50 years have elapsed.

You're happy with your polyurethane, which is all that counts. You're also unconcerned with renewing the finish. That's fine. The OP might also be, but there are many choices. That's why I asked the questions.