Woods RM59 finish mower

[Stroby]

I have two Woods RM59 mowers that I use to maintain grass along the roads to my fields in the bottom and some general maintenance on the farm. One is on a smaller tractor that goes under trees and the other is on a larger tractor with larger wheels and rides better. Bought the second one for a parts mower and discovered it was too good to use for just parts. I really like these mowers but when it comes time to take the blades off for sharpening or replacement, it becomes quite a task. I have used two different impact guns but there's always at least one of the bolts that won't rattle off. These are left hand thread, 15/16 bolts that have two bellows washers and one flat washer between the bolt head and the mower blade. I usually end up with a piece of pipe cheater bar on a pipe wrench that I put over the blade to keep it from turning. Then use another pipe cheater bar on a 3/4 breaker bar and a 6 sided impact socket to get these rascals off. Seems like I'm about to pull my guts out before it ever moves. Is there a trick to removing these things that I don't know about. Please advise. Thanks in advance.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

try putting some never-seize on them

 

[Duner Wi]

I have a RM59-1 for over 40 years and don't have your problem. I do grease every thing when I sharpen the blades.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I have woods mowers too.
Your problem is you are over tightening the blades when you install them.

Woods have friction plates in contact with the blade. The blades are self-tightening if the friction plates don't allow the blade to slip when you hit something.

45-50 #ft of torque.

If that fails, I have put a tiny dab of grease on the friction plate.
I have the bolt threads greased up too.

My JD 48 inch mower deck is the same as a woods mower. DON'T over torque the bolt holding the blade on.

Post back if it works for you.

 

[atlarge54]

I've had a Woods L306 (same spindle as yours) for about 30 years, if my memory is correct the spindle calls for 160 ft/lb torque on the bolt. I used to lock the spindle from above with a pipe wrench and use a breaker bar and cheater pipe from below.

I rarely remove the blades anymore , just touch them up with an angle grinder.

 

[Stroby]

Thanks to all for the info. It will be a few months before I have to remove them to sharpen them.....I hope. If I remember, I'll give an update. I re-installed them with a 1/2 breaker bar but not too tight as I know they self tighten. There is oil on the threads and the washers were all cleaned on the wire wheel of my grinder. I have thought about using an angle grinder but i guess I'm still old school and wouldn't be able to assure myself they are balanced using that method. Thanks again everyone.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Add grease to the head of the bolt where it comes in contact with the curved washer.

 

[gbaker5312]

I am in need of some help! As I have said before. I am rehabbing a Woods RM59-1 finish mower Serial number 3670. Doing research, the unit I have was the original RM-59 model and it came off the assembly line as the 2670 unit made! So it is very old! What I need is if possible, someone to provide me with some pictures and measurements of the part # 23818, RM-59 Takeup Idler Belt guide. It’s not available, as far as I can determine, so I’m going to have my son in law make it for me. Thanks

 

[Jim.ME]

I am in need of some help! As I have said before. I am rehabbing a Woods RM59-1 finish mower Serial number 3670. Doing research, the unit I have was the original RM-59 model and it came off the assembly line as the 2670 unit made! So it is very old! What I need is if possible, someone to provide me with some pictures and measurements of the part # 23818, RM-59 Takeup Idler Belt guide. It’s not available, as far as I can determine, so I’m going to have my son in law make it for me. Thanks

Have you called Messick's? The parts info on their site does not show it as discontinued. They may have a way to source one.

 

[gbaker5312]

Yes. I saw it but NO info. I had planned on calling them on Monday! But I am sure it will be a ridiculous price as is most of the parts I have looked up on their website. Not kicking a dead horse but I have been able to source MANY parts that are available locally or online at a much lower cost. I have just up to date saved very close to $600 so far by sourcing them other than though the 3 online tractor supply stores. I have to say that I really don’t have a problem with the fact that these online stores are really a good source for parts but most don’t have a store front overhead or the expenses associated with the overhead of them so their prices SHOULD reflect that but they don’t! I was in business for 28 years after in retired from the Marines so I understand the whole overhead and related expenses! I just believe that it is about Corporate Greed and Profits! When I can source an item for sometimes 25% of their cost with shipping and tax.
I think they are just being greedy and for most people they pay it, well I just have to see if I can source it at a decent price! Example is a bearing (6095) listed on one of the stores online at $34.83
I have sourced it for $18.81 with shipping and tax,
For a 2 pack, that’s about $9.40 each. So, yes, I will continue to use EVERY source I can find to purchase
my needs! And I will continue to post my sources and prices when I find them. Of course, unless the site has some issues with it and then I will just move on afterwards. Hopefully I won’t be banned!

 

[gbaker5312]

I have two Woods RM59 mowers that I use to maintain grass along the roads to my fields in the bottom and some general maintenance on the farm. One is on a smaller tractor that goes under trees and the other is on a larger tractor with larger wheels and rides better. Bought the second one for a parts mower and discovered it was too good to use for just parts. I really like these mowers but when it comes time to take the blades off for sharpening or replacement, it becomes quite a task. I have used two different impact guns but there's always at least one of the bolts that won't rattle off. These are left hand thread, 15/16 bolts that have two bellows washers and one flat washer between the bolt head and the mower blade. I usually end up with a piece of pipe cheater bar on a pipe wrench that I put over the blade to keep it from turning. Then use another pipe cheater bar on a 3/4 breaker bar and a 6 sided impact socket to get these rascals off. Seems like I'm about to pull my guts out before it ever moves. Is there a trick to removing these things that I don't know about. Please advise. Thanks in advance.

Stroby,
I have been trying to find a part for the Woods RM59-1 mower that I am rehabbing. Did not come with it when I purchased it used! I have checked with several online retailers and some local suppliers. Seems like it’s not available anymore!
It’s the Idler Belt Guide part#23818, diagram #23 which from the website diagrams looks to be about 4 to 6 inches long and sits above the channel that the long bolt is located in and is under the belt pulley that is on top of the guide and the channel. Hopefully you can follow that description! If possible would you please take a couple of pictures of it so I can see if my son in law will try to make one for me at his fabrication shop. I would greatly appreciate it. I figure since you have 2 of them you would have great access to taking pictures. I attached a photo of the diagram, item #23. Thanks

 

[Duner Wi]

Photo of RM-1 from about 1980.