Working on a '44 Model A

[JoeR83]

Hi all, new poster here, been reading for some time to gain some knowledge but have some questions for the experts here.

I recently acquired my late grandfather's 1944 A and am working on getting it running. A little background here so hopefully this helps...as far as I know, this tractor has not run in probably 15 years, if not more. It has been outside this entire time, although it has had coffee cans over both the intake and exhaust stacks, so that is a plus. It was probably running the last time it was parked.

Pretty much everything is free on it except for one sticky brake. Flywheel turns by hand but cannot make a full revolution with it (suspecting due to compression cycle). I haven't used anything other than my hands at this point.

I am doing a complete rebuild/clean of the carb as we speak. I should have this done within the next week. My plan is to change engine oil/filter, spark plugs, new sediment bowl, clean fuel line, fill with water and attempt a start. After I get it running, I will address the other oils and anything else that needs attention. It's actually in pretty decent shape except for faded/no paint. The inside of the main fuel tank looks like new.

Is there anything that I should do to ensure that I don't have a massive failure from the get go here? Spray any lube into the cylinders? I will put a 30 psi gauge on for oil pressure as the dash mounted one is no good.

This has been converted to electric start, so at least I won't wear my arms out!

 

[Rich'sToys]

What does the inside of the gas tank look like? You do not want to run any old varnish or crud into your new rebuilt carburetor--or the rest of the engine either, for that matter. Make sure to clean the tank good, or replace it if necessary.

Probably should put a little oil or ATF in the cylinders also before turning it over too much.

Make sure all the valves are loose and not stuck.

 

[NoDakInMN]

If you have never rebuilt a DTLX single barrel carb before, I strongly suggest that you get the Robert's Carb Repair video and follow that. It is a carb that is a bit more complicated than it may first appear.

Second, as it has been sitting for a long while, I would open the compression relief valves and remove the plugs when spinning it over to see if any water comes out. It may not be compression that you are feeling but hydraulic lock due to condensation, or maybe worse.

Third, I would also pull the plugs out of all the cases to see if any water from condensation comes out. All of this should be done before attempting to fire the tractor.

 

[NoDakInMN]

Removed double post.

This post was edited by NoDakInMN on 08/17/2023 at 06:10 am.

 

[coonie minnie]

I second the open the petcocks/remove plugs comment before trying to turn it over. You do want to make sure there's no water/mouse nest etc in a cylinder. Removing the valve cover and making sure valves
are moving is also good advice.

 

[Loosehandle]

Also check the top of gas tank for mouse
nest rusting through and falling in tank.

 

[greenmech]

Make sure it turns a full revolution. If not take a look at the valves or remove the head. Ron MN

 

[JoeR83]

(quoted from post at 21:26:41 08/16/23)
What does the inside of the gas tank look like? You do not want to run any old varnish or crud into your new rebuilt carburetor--or the rest of the engine either, for that matter. Make sure to clean the tank good, or replace it if necessary.

Probably should put a little oil or ATF in the cylinders also before turning it over too much.

Make sure all the valves are loose and not stuck.

The fuel tank is actually very clean. No rust or varnish...bright silver. So that's a huge plus. The small tank on the other hand, not so much, but I'm just going to cap that one off anyways.

 

[JoeR83]

(quoted from post at 22:17:57 08/16/23) If you have never rebuilt a DTLX single barrel carb before, I strongly suggest that you get the Robert's Carb Repair video and follow that. It is a carb that is a bit more complicated than it may first appear.

Second, as it has been sitting for a long while, I would open the compression relief valves and remove the plugs when spinning it over to see if any water comes out. It may not be compression that you are feeling but hydraulic lock due to condensation, or maybe worse.

Third, I would also pull the plugs out of all the cases to see if any water from condensation comes out. All of this should be done before attempting to fire the tractor.

I will definitely pull plugs and see if there is anything in there along with checking the valves, as I was going to adjust them as well.

I will say this is my first go at anything 2 cylinder related, including a carb rebuild. I've watched a few videos, looks like a fairly straightforward process to me. What are some of the complications that people experience with the DTLX? I've got this one completely stripped down right now working on removing some rust, then will drill passages and clean again before reassembling it.

 

[used red MN]

Hello Joe welcome to YT! In my opinion you are
wasting your time setting the valves although there are
not very many of them. Just roll it through the
revolutions and a 1/4 turn more after each one closes
then make sure a little lash, in other words not tight.
Then once you run it a bit then adjust the valves. Rust
will have formed and loose carbon will be in between
the seating surfaces so if you set the valves before the
start up the settings will be by no means accurate.
After it has run a bit say 15 to 30 minutes that stuff will
be mostly worked out and the settings will be way
more accurate. Good luck!

 

[Sparky720]

Great place to ask question. Theres loads of knowledge on here.
If you can get your hands on a borescope camera and go in through the spark plug holes, you
can look at the pistons and cylinder walls and watch your valves as you roll the flywheel by
hand. Good Luck!

 

[rustred]

The most important thing to do on any engine sitting is to
remove the plugs and squirt dome oil into each cylinder ,
at least one once. Then u rolling over and see how it feels
incase the valves are stuck. Which you can tell by feeling
resistance. Do not force it. Totally the best is to remove
the valve cover and give each rocker a tap with a dead
blow hammer. The closed valves will snap back. And the
open ones should close on engine rotation. Last thing to
worry about is putting new parts in. Plugs fired before
they will fire now , the same with points. Clean then and
gap them and check for spark. The carb would be best to
clean it on any sitting engine. And make sure u have full
fuel flow going into it. Even if u just pull the bowl off and
clean it. Its only the gas line and big nut to remove. And
that round gasket is east to make. Or if u want to cheat
open the pet cock on the bottom of bowl and run some
gas through it. Not many people tackle carbs any more
or know how. Then u can start it and find out what it
needs and then do you compression test and tune up and
valve set and carb.

 

[Leroy]

I have not worked on them but have heard there are verry small hidden
passages that are over looked and need special bits to clean out.

 

[JoeR83]

(quoted from post at 08:52:08 08/18/23) I have not worked on them but have heard there are verry small hidden
passages that are over looked and need special bits to clean out.

Yes, this has 10-12 ports on it and I did get the correct bits to clean them out. There are definitely a few little things on this that need special attention!