would this work

[L.B,]

And how many gallons for 28x11 rear wheels
Untitled URL Link

 

[old]

Yes it will work and as per the NAA owners manual 32 Gal

 

[L.B,]

Thanks old

 

[Jimmyjack]

To the top of the rim is 27 gallons. I measured it when I filled mine. You have to leave some room for shock bumps, cant have them plumb full. Old has over estimated the fill amount for years.

 

[Jimmyjack]

Save some money, use waste antifreeze. Usually get better temperature coverage too, unless you dont need it. Here in the North we need all we can get.

 

[Den N Ms]

LB ,Here is a chart for you.
Liquid Tire Ballast

The following table represents the weight achieved by filling the tire 75% full (valve level) with water.
Use of chemical agents to prevent freezing will affect the weight.

Farm Tractor Tires (Turf tires can be found below this chart)
TIRE SIZE GALLONS OF WATER ADDED WEIGHT (lbs.) PER TIRE
4.00-12 2 17
4.00-15 2.5 21
4.00-19 3 25
5.00-15 3.5 29
5.50-16 5 42
6.00-12 4.5 37
6.00-14 5 41
6.00-16 6 50
6.50-16 7 58
7.50-10 6 50
7.5L-15 8 66
7.50-16 9 75
7.50-18 10 83
7.50-20 11 92
9.00-10 9 75
9.5L-15 11 92
9.50-20 18 150
9.50-24 20 167
10.00-16 17 142
11.00-12 18 150
11L-15 13 108
11.00-16 23 192
11L-16 15 123
14L-16.1 27 225
16.5L-16.1 42 346
7.2-24 9 75
7.50-16 9 75
8.3-24 13 108
9.5-16 12 100
9.5-24 17 142
9.5-36 25 209
9.5-42 29 242
10-16.5 12 97
11.2-24 24 200
11.2-28 27 225
11.2-34 33 275
11.2-36 35 292
11.2-38 36 300
12.4-16 21 175
12.4-24 30 250
12.4-28 35 292
12.4-36 44 367
12.4-38 46 384
12.4-42 51 425
13.6-24 38 317
13.6-26 40 334
13.6-28 43 359
13.6-38 57 475
14.9-24 47 392
14.9-26 48 400
14.9-28 53 442
14.9-30 57 475
14.9-36 64 534
14.9-38 67 559
15.5-38 66 550
16.9-24 61 509
16.9-26 65 542
16.9-28 69 575
16.9-30 73 609
16.9-34 82 684
16.9-38 90 751
17.5L-24 55 459
18.4-16.1 49 409
18.4-24 75 626
18.4-26 79 659
18.4-28 84 701
18.4-30 89 742
18.4-34 100 834
18.4-38 110 917
19.5L-24 73 609
20.8-34 128 1068
20.8-38 140 1168

Turf Tires
23x8.50-12 6 50
23x10.50-12 7 58
26x12.00-12 10 83
25x8.50-14 7 58
25x7.50-15 6 50
25x10.50-15 7 58
25x12.50-15 8 67
27x8.50-15 7 58
27x9.50-15 9 75
27x10.50-15 10 83
29x12.50-15 14 116
31x12.50-15 18 149
31x13.50-15 19 158
31x15.50-15 20 166
33x12.50-15 22 183
44x18.00-20 56 476

 

[old]

With something like this I use the manual. In this case the
FORD
TRACTOR
OWNER'S
MANUAL
MODEL NAA
COPYRIGHT 1954
as PER PAGE 32 SECTION 3
11-28 TIRE holds 164 lbs. calcium and 32 Gals. of water. I refer to manuals every time I can so if I estimate it wrong then blame the Ford manual not me and your very good about attacking me even though you do not ask where my info comes form and my info comes form the manuals every time I can use them so I know I am RIGHT. So please stop attacking me your one of the reason I do not post on this forum but this time I did to try to help but will not again

 

[Jimmyjack]

You are right, the tire holds that much water when full, but you dont fill them full for ballast! You fill them to the top of the rim which is 27 gallons! If you filled them full there would be no room for air to absorb shocks when you hit a bump or hole.

 

[Ultradog MN]

LB,
Good that you are adding ballast.
A ballasted tractor can put more of its horsepower to the ground and is significantly more stable than an unballasted tractor.
The stuff you link to seems a bit pricey to me.
If you watch for sales you can buy ordinary WWF for just over $1 a gallon.
Myself, I prefer to fill my tires with Johney Walker Black Label. A decent scotch adds significant weight, does not freeze and if you break down in the field you have something to sip on while someone comes to rescue you.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Your tractor, your $$$, your choices. You asked so IMHO, I'd would not use any windshield washer fluid or any anti-freeze. Why not? Both are now water diluted per the EPA. Water freezes and if leaking out of tubes, can and will create oxidation (rust). The first signs of leaking usually appears around the valve stem but it may have done significant damage by then. In addition, if you opt to buy the used stuff sold at radiator shops, you don't know what you are getting -they dump all the old used stuff in one container/55 gallon drum. I'm a huge supporter of beet juice, trade name 'Rim Guard'. I've been using it since the mid-1990's and never have had any problems. I'm on my second set of tires and the Firestone AG Tire Center simply drained and reused it. There are 27 gallons in each tire. Some say the stuff is too expensive but to me worth every dime. As I said, I've had the same stuff in them for 25 years. If you had Ca Chl in them, best to invest in new tubes no matter what you choose. I also suggest you haul the tractor to a good tire center and let them do all the grunt work. They have all the right skilled employees and equipment for the job. Leave tier mounted -it's easier for them and saves you mucking up your back and knuckles. It's well worth the price to pay in my humble opinion.

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[L.Fure]

(quoted from post at 11:40:04 03/05/19) Your tractor, your $$$, your choices. You asked so IMHO, I'd would not use any windshield washer fluid or any anti-freeze. Why not? Both are now water diluted per the EPA. Water freezes and if leaking out of tubes, can and will create oxidation (rust). The first signs of leaking usually appears around the valve stem but it may have done significant damage by then. In addition, if you opt to buy the used stuff sold at radiator shops, you don't know what you are getting -they dump all the old used stuff in one container/55 gallon drum. I'm a huge supporter of beet juice, trade name 'Rim Guard'. I've been using it since the mid-1990's and never have had any problems. I'm on my second set of tires and the Firestone AG Tire Center simply drained and reused it. There are 27 gallons in each tire. Some say the stuff is too expensive but to me worth every dime. As I said, I've had the same stuff in them for 25 years. If you had Ca Chl in them, best to invest in new tubes no matter what you choose. I also suggest you haul the tractor to a good tire center and let them do all the grunt work. They have all the right skilled employees and equipment for the job. Leave tier mounted -it's easier for them and saves you mucking up your back and knuckles. It's well worth the price to pay in my humble opinion.

Tim Daley(MI)

I also use rim guard in my ballasted tires. It is noncorrosive and is nontoxic, and won't seep out of a valve stem like other products eventually does.

 

[Jimmyjack]

I agree Tim, but curious as to why anti freeze diluted with water would be worse for you tires than in you engine? Ive used it in my tires for 20 plus years and havent seen a problem? I think salt causes the most grief.

 

[Jimmyjack]

The dog has spoken and he is most always right!

 

[old]

Again as I sad the manual says 32 gals and yes it will hold that. Shoot the 13.9X28 holds 36 gal of fluid and that is what I have in my tire. One has to do thing the correct way to have 32 gals in like have it up on jacks etc. I'm done with you and this forum NEVER AGAIN

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:30:12 03/05/19) Again as I sad the manual says 32 gals and yes it will hold that. Shoot the 13.9X28 holds 36 gal of fluid and that is what I have in my tire. One has to do thing the correct way to have 32 gals in like have it up on jacks etc. I'm done with you and this forum NEVER AGAIN

ye bye :lol:

 

[hunkydory]

Plain water is inexpensive. Adding a little anti-freeze is also inexpensive.

It sounds like the advantages of the beet juice are 1) it is non-corrosive and 2) it adds ~24% more weight per gallon.

I just sent them a request to find a local dealer, so I can get a price.

The question that comes to mind is, if it leaks out is it a sticky mess? With my luck I'd get a leak and every mouse in the county would come over for supper.... :lol:

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:10:37 03/05/19) Plain water is inexpensive. Adding a little anti-freeze is also inexpensive.

It sounds like the advantages of the beet juice are 1) it is non-corrosive and 2) it adds ~24% more weight per gallon.

I just sent them a request to find a local dealer, so I can get a price.

The question that comes to mind is, if it leaks out is it a sticky mess? With my luck I'd get a leak and every mouse in the county would come over for supper.... :lol:

es, a sticky mess. Heaviest per unit volume is CaCl & water (5%) , next lighter is RimGuard, and lightest is water.

 

[hunkydory]

Yes, a sticky mess. Heaviest per unit volume is CaCl & water (5%) , next lighter is RimGuard, and lightest is water.

Thanks. That seals it for me - no beet juice here. Augmented water should suit my needs.

The ol' girl came with CaCl in the rear tires and it was a mess. The rims were rotten, valve stems rotten, salt water leaking all over the place. Fortunately I needed tires, too, so got the complete assemblies.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:04:04 03/05/19)

Yes, a sticky mess. Heaviest per unit volume is CaCl & water (5%) , next lighter is RimGuard, and lightest is water.

Thanks. That seals it for me - no beet juice here. Augmented water should suit my needs.

The ol' girl came with CaCl in the rear tires and it was a mess. The rims were rotten, valve stems rotten, salt water leaking all over the place. Fortunately I needed tires, too, so got the complete assemblies.

I hate these kinds of anecdotal statements but I am going to make one:

I have had CaCl in the [b:a4c9962221][u:a4c9962221]tubeless[/u:a4c9962221][/b:a4c9962221] tires on my Kubota for 25+ years. Not the first sign of rust through inside or out. Perhaps it is better surface coatings on the rims or a better formulated steel. Or maybe I just need to wait another 40 years :roll:

TOH

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 15:53:06 03/05/19)

(quoted from post at 15:04:04 03/05/19)

Yes, a sticky mess. Heaviest per unit volume is CaCl & water (5%) , next lighter is RimGuard, and lightest is water.

Thanks. That seals it for me - no beet juice here. Augmented water should suit my needs.

The ol' girl came with CaCl in the rear tires and it was a mess. The rims were rotten, valve stems rotten, salt water leaking all over the place. Fortunately I needed tires, too, so got the complete assemblies.

I hate these kinds of anecdotal statements but I am going to make one:

I have had CaCl in the [b:91e10e4998][u:91e10e4998]tubeless[/u:91e10e4998][/b:91e10e4998] tires on my Kubota for 25+ years. Not the first sign of rust through inside or out. Perhaps it is better surface coatings on the rims or a better formulated steel. Or maybe I just need to wait another 40 years :roll:

TOH

have tractors with CaCl in the tube tires and they were like that when I got them. Both have rusty rims, one was so bad that I fabricated a new piece to weld into the rusted thru area. The other newer tractor just shows rust without the rust thru. My opinion is that the primary cause is that people don't fix a small seeping kind of leak. If only air, they would add air every once in a great while when tire low. Bad plan with CaCl, where the seep is salting the rim over a long period of time. Tractors did keep on keeping on for around 50 years without rim repair on one and the rusty-only one is going on ~42 years without repair so far. I don't see a rust problem with the stuff, since as long as tubes and valves are in good shape, it is all contained inside the tube, not in contact with metal rim.

 

[hd6gtom]

Lbs where do you live?? When rim guard was introduced to the midwest years ago, I was in the rear farm tire business. The meetings that I attended were put on by the rim guard people. One thing they made very clear was --- rim guard is very hard to or next to imposiable to pump when it gets below zero Fahrenheit. I hope they have figured out a way to have fixed this. I have been out fixing tires at -30 many times. It is no fun and would have been worse if the fluid in the tires was unpumpable.

 

[hunkydory]

I have had CaCl in the [b:cbb00ad619][u:cbb00ad619]tubeless[/u:cbb00ad619][/b:cbb00ad619] tires on my Kubota for 25+ years. Not the first sign of rust through inside or out. Perhaps it is better surface coatings on the rims or a better formulated steel.

My opinion is that the primary cause is that people don't fix a small seeping kind of leak.

Both of you are spot on. Surface preparation and paying attention to details are clearly the key to longevity with CaCl.

This is my first foray into tractor-dom and my 8N was severely neglected. There was evidence that the rims had previously rotted, been repaired and rotted again. It was so bad both valve stems broke off when I was trying to pump the old solution out. One rim had a 3-4" chuck around the valve stem break off in my hand. A real PITA. I should have taken a picture of it.

CaCl has obviously been used for many years with positive results. I'm not knocking it, just saying that for what I plan [b:cbb00ad619]I [/b:cbb00ad619]don't need it.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Some guys complain that they only got 75 years out of a set of rims because calcium ate them up.
Never mind that the engine was rebuilt 3 times, the tractor got 4 new clutches, 3 paint jobs and 4 new sets of tires since then as none of that occurs to them.
They dont stop to think that rims, along with piston rings, radiator hoses and batteries are wear items.
So they'll go with some kinda high priced, goofball beet juice that not every tire dealer will work with. I guess they think their tractor, rims included, will last forever.
Or they'll run unballasted and have a half fast tractor that can't pull itself out of the garage.
They ooh and ahh about how great and smart the builders of these little tractors were. They admire the thriftiness and getterdone attitude of the original buyers of these things. Then they denigrate the very same thinking when it comes to making the tractors Effective and Stable at Low Cost.
Common sense ain't so common anymore I guess.
Mike and Willie said the stuff is bad.
So it must be bad.
Well Mike and Willie also said a Ford N is a panzy assed, almost worthless tractor.
Are you gonna listen to them about that too?
You guys are intelligent, prudent men.
So stop all the hand wringing over this topic which comes up WAY too often here.
Just put the cheapest, heaviest, most bang for buck stuff in your tires - like your dad and grand dad did and move on to the next task at hand.

 

[larry@stinescorner]

the answer is clear,,,,SQUASH juice! Get rid of the squash in a way that will please Ultradog!! (lol ,,just adding some levity ,,

 

[hunkydory]

:lol:

 

[Royse]

This is an interesting conversation, so I though I'd chime in and
be a smart Alec. I don't add any liquid to my wheels, I add it to
the tires and/or tubes.

Are we actually talking about 11x28 tires, which would be the
current 12.4 x 28 tires or are we talking about 11.2 x 28 tires?
They would definitely hold different amounts of fluid.
Den's chart shows that quite clearly as well.

 

[hunkydory]

This is an interesting conversation, so I though I'd chime in and
be a smart Alec. I don't add any liquid to my wheels, I add it to
the tires and/or tubes.

:lol:

Someone mentioned filling their tires with liquor and I found a chart with the specific gravity of various refreshments. Butterscotch Schnapps is pretty heavy at 1.22. :wink: