Yanmar 1700BD - Blue smoke

Yanny-HT

New User
I've researched this for over a week now, and this board has helped tramendously. But I think I've narrowed it down to a couple of things and would appreciate any help that you can lend. I've worked on small engines before, but never deisel tractors. A little background on the situation:

Bought the tractor about a 4-6 weeks ago, no issues when purchased. The muffler was in bad shape, so I decided to change it. Once I changed it, that's when the trouble started (I don't believe it had anything to do with it, just coincidence). Read countless articles on web and here and noticed that changing the oil could help because of viscosity in different regions because thinner oils could leak through valve stems, gaskets, etc. Changed the oil. It did help. Smell of burning oil was no as bad, but now the oil (new fresh looking, out of the bottle) is coming out of the exhaust stack.

So now here is my question, I saw recently on this board where someone is having "similar" issues and replacement of the valve stems seals may correct this. Seams logical, because not all of the oil is getting burned. Engine runs great, plenty of power and pto power. So the "light" smell could be burn off from exhaust, etc.

I have also noticed dust adhering to wear the head gasket would be as well (leaking?). It has a water pump and doesn't run hot.

So do I have two problems? Really don't want to dive deeper into than I have to, but willing to do because this little tractor is awesome.
 
You are probably going to need a valve and ring job, (engines is engines, oil burning is oil burning), but what weight oil did you use? Also, you might try an engine cleaner in case rings are stuck. some use ATF as an engine cleaner.
 
Not necessarily under load. As the engine warms, less smoke from stack occurs. As far as from tubing it is sparatic.

The weight per the manual is SAE 30. I do believe the previous owner neglected to change the oil regularly. He is only 2-1/2 hours south of me.

Please pardon my ignorance, but what cleaner do you recommend? I'm not aware what ATF stands for (aside from Alcohol, tobacco and firearms - which I think all can enjoy! <E>:)</E> )

If I use a cleaner through the fuel system, is that not just burning more oil?

I really appreciate y'alls help.
 
<QUOTE author="Yanny"><s>
</s>Not necessarily under load. As the engine warms, less smoke from stack occurs. As far as from tubing it is sparatic.

The weight per the manual is SAE 30. I do believe the previous owner neglected to change the oil regularly. He is only 2-1/2 hours south of me.

Please pardon my ignorance, but what cleaner do you recommend? I'm not aware what ATF stands for (aside from Alcohol, tobacco and firearms - which I think all can enjoy! <E>:)</E> )

If I use a cleaner through the fuel system, is that not just burning more oil?

I really appreciate y'alls help.<e>
/e></QUOTE>

That being the case, I would just pick one off the shelf, "Gumout" or others and follow the instructions
 
Try a diesel multigrade with a second number of 40 or 50 if you can find it. Synthetic or not doesn't matter, and if you can only find gas-engine heavier oils, OK if you change it a bit more often. (Some Yanmar manuals specify 30 because they predated multigrades.)
 
Thanks to you all. I will try the fuel additive and the oil that you all have suggested and let you know how it works out.

Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it.
 
Robert, that's ideal. But sometimes an oil burner does better with heavier oil, and if the heaviest available is not diesel-rated, that's OK if you change it sooner -- related to ash dispersal.
 
Update: I have changed the oil with a special oil manufactured just for diesels (5w-40). It seems we have solved one of the two issues. Oil is no longer coming out of the muffler, but the blue smoke is still there, a little better even (maybe me wishing), I let the tractor run for 30 minutes or so. I have attached pictures of what it looks like running 2200 to 2500 RPM.

Interested in your responses.

I have already ordered materials for the head gasket change and value changes (I feel like this is something I'm going to have to do). You all have much more knowledge about performing these task than I do, about how long should one expect to perform these task. Hours? Day? I don't want to leave motor open longer than I have to, so I want to plan appropriately. (I've looked at Aaron's "Replacement Guide" to head gaskets)

38185_00f9e6a8864ad5619687fb99731d053f.jpg


38185_94227582ed230d3cafcf90041218f3cc.jpg
 
Going back to your first post stating no problem when you first purchased the tractor. I have to ask if you used any starting fluid before the problems started? Something strange about all of a sudden blowing oil.
 
<QUOTE author="winston"><s>
</s>Going back to your first post stating no problem when you first purchased the tractor. I have to ask if you used any starting fluid before the problems started? Something strange about all of a sudden blowing oil.<e>
/e></QUOTE>

No I haven't. It may have been that way to begin with... Don't know how they hid it if they knew about it. That was something I looked for during the purchase (smoke).
 
Sort of doubtful the valve stem seals will solve the smoke but certainly would be an inexpensive and easy task if you are going to change the head gasket. Are you sure the head gasket is leaking? If not, I see no reason you couldn't change the valve stem seals without pulling the head. You could just bring one piston at a time to top dead center to hold the valves up while you remove keepers and install new seals.
 
about how long should one expect to perform these task

Once I have everything (including a manual) and if neither surface needs milling, a day, but I go slow and my first took a week. It's a bother to remove the hood but I like the accessibility. For more tips put "head gasket" in the Search box.
 
It would be a waste of time and money to replace the HG on an oil burning engine without digging further and replacing rings and checking rod bearings.
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>It would be a waste of time and money to replace the HG on an oil burning engine without digging further and replacing rings and checking rod bearings.<e>
/e></QUOTE>

I agree... I should have stated this earlier, but every part as I work my way down will be inspected and replaced as needed. If I have questions as I go, I would certainly ask you all your opinions and help.
 
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