Yanmar YM2010 clutch

Ivor

Member
Location
France
Hey guys
We started our tractor the other day and it went right to the floor and won't change gears . We are going to get a new clutch but i wanted to make sure that it was that . And also how would we split it without any special tools ?
Thanks
Toby
 
Hey guys
We started our tractor the other day and it went right to the floor and won't change gears . We are going to get a new clutch but i wanted to make sure that it was that . And also how would we split it without any special tools ?
Thanks
Toby
Your problem could range from a pin or key wearing out or falling out of the linkage or some other linkage issue to a failed throwout bearing that has worn the fingers off of the pressure plate. Were there any unusual noises prior to this happening?

You are going to have to get up close and personal with it and look for what has failed. I don't know whether or not your tractor has a clutch inspection cover that can be removed to look inside with a good light to see what is or isn't moving when someone depresses the clutch pedal. (OBVIOUSLY (IF there's an inspection cover) don't muck around in there with the engine running!)

At any rate you will need to find out exactly what has happened before ordering parts.

If you intend to "split" it and have no experience in such things, I would suggest obtaining a shop manual before even considering attempting that.
 
Hey thanks for your reply .I'll look into spliting it then. Could it be that there's not oil in the chamber ?
Thanks
Toby
 
Hey thanks for your reply .I'll look into spliting it then. Could it be that there's not oil in the chamber ?
Thanks
Toby
Does your tractor have a "hydraulic clutch" that uses a "master cylinder" operated by the clutch pedal and a "slave cylinder" down by the bellhousing/clutch area that operates the clutch?
 
Make sure you can support both "ends" of the tractor when splitting. The front axle needs to be wedged where the axle comes out from under the tractor so the front 1/2 cannot tip sideways. (or splitting stnds used that support the front vertically as well as the weight. all support under the tractor (front or rear) should be wooden cribbing, not just the jacks used to lift it initially make sure you deal with all electrical and hydraulic connections prior to rolling it apart. Working on pavement is really important for rolling it back together accurately. Jim
 
hey thanks for advice . which side is best to roll away ? the front or the back ? i was going to roll the front forward but don't want it tipping . How would i wedge the front wheels ?
Thanks
Toby
 
hey thanks for advice . which side is best to roll away ? the front or the back ? i was going to roll the front forward but don't want it tipping . How would i wedge the front wheels ?
Thanks
Toby
Either can be rolled but only one needs to be. Wedging the front is done by putting hardwood wedges (made locally) between the top of the front drive axle and the solid frame above it. wedges should be made so they are one piece each and push in from the wheel toward the center, about 1/2 of their length. Use a ratchet strap from one to the other to prevent them from moving outward. Heavy duty car rolling casters could be used with cribbing to support the rear of the engine. Do get a repair manual and local advice on safety. Jim
 
If by showing us this clutch kit you think that is going to answer the question asked by wore out about it having a hydraulic activated clutch it tells us nothing about that. No one who replied here claims to have precise knowledge of your machine and how the clutch works, they are just giving you advice from common tractor repair knowledge. My point being, especially in the case your tractor has a hydraulically operated clutch, that you could install the brand new clutch parts and get it back together and it will still be doing the same thing. Some amount of diagnosis or troubleshooting has to be applied before tearing it apart to assure this won’t be the case.
Edit: I see kencombs in reply 10 has given you some info that at least applies to a tractor under the same brand as yours but a different model. That shows a manual linkage operated clutch and not a hydraulic. Your problem could be as simple as a sheared pin in the linkage. To release the clutch the throw-out bearing 27 in that diagram has to be pushed forward to contact the thin triangular fingers of the clutch diaphragm spring in the center of the pressure plate (19). That releases the squeezing pressure of the pressure plate against the lined disc seen at the upper left. Determining if that throw out bearing is moving forward by the pedal being pushed is your key to proper diagnosis.
 
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Here is a screen shot of a YM250 (US version of the 2510). The clutch linkage is the most likely culprit, IMHO, not the clutch. I'd look carefully at those parts before committing to a split. From the diagram it looks like the parts are visible by removing a small cover plate on the top.
1723484623529.png
 
Hey
Sorry for the late reply . been really busy . Thanks for your reply and diagram .sorry i should have looked at it properly . i have taken the tractor apart and looked in at the linkage the diagram extactly right thanks .here a photo of it without the cover on

What do you guys think ? There are some broken bits of metal at the bottom and they don't look like they are from the linkage. it looks like it's pressing on the clutch alright . how would i know withoput spliting it ?
Thanks again for all the help and sorry if i have been a bit rude
Toby
 
Yikes. That is a LOT of rust. You can get a better view up in there using a "dentist's mirror." It's a mirror on a stick, like the small round ones dentists use to look at the back of your teeth.

If and when you go to split it, I recommend rolling the rear back. This is only a ~2000lb tractor by the data I'm finding online so you should be able to do it with a simple floor jack, presuming you're working on concrete. You do not need fancy splitting stands unless you want to make them.
 
hey thanks for advice . which side is best to roll away ? the front or the back ? i was going to roll the front forward but don't want it tipping . How would i wedge the front wheels ?
Thanks
Toby
I prefer to leave the front stationary and roll the back away. The front wheels can turn sideways and make the front hard to control.
 
Hey
we have split the tractor successfully and taken the clutch off . It was the clutch because the metal pressure plates were broken .
Thanks for all the help and advice , it's really really appreciated .
Toby
 
Hey
Sorry for the wait . Here a photo of the broken clutch .
clutch.jpg


One more thing . after cleaning the bits off the flywheel from the disc there are little rust holes where the disc went , can i still use it ? here a photo to
flywheel 1.jpg


flywheel.jpg

Thanks
Toby
 
Your flywheel has seen a bit of moisture in its lifetime. Getting info from tractordata, it seems your tractor is over 40 years old, so getting a new flywheel is also (probably) out of the question.
Ordinarily, the flywheel should be resurfaced by a machine shop when replacing a pressure plate and the disc. That is to minimize the chance of clutch chatter. In your case, I’d talk to the machine shop to see if the machinist is comfortable doing that. It looks like a fair amount of metal will have to come off to get it perfect and that tractor may not have a surplus of material when new.
How hard do you use this tractor and how hard was it to split ? It’s possible a new pressure plate and disc will fix it without resurfacing the flywheel, but it’s not how they fix it “by the book”. Then again, in my area, any machinist is over an hour away and is backed up for six months…
 
we use it to cut hay and topping every year so quit hard . but it was easy to split. ok i'll just wire brush it so all the rust is off and put it back together and hope for the best .
Thanks for your reply
Toby
 
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