YM1500D Clutch Replacement

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Check out my old clutch bearing carrier compared to new one - wow!
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My question is: How should the bearing carrier sit against or between the forks of the clutch rod in the rear of the tractor. The old one fits between the forks ok, but the new one does not fit with the wings horizontal like I would expect only vertical. Is it suppose to fit in there or just sit in front of forks? Does this make sense? Ignore that cable tie hanging by fork - don't know why someone had that in there - maybe to help hold bearing carrier...
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I don't know the answer but have a thought. Just looking at the design I don't see how the carrier would be pulled away from the clutch unless the forks were in the carrier. Looks like that design is made for the clutch pedal spring to pull the carrier back. I also don't see what would keep the carrier from spinning if the forks were not in carrier.

Here is an old TBN thread that sheds light on how the carrier is to be turned. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.tractor...6-clutch-replacement-1500d-2.html</LINK_TEXT>
 
Go to Hoye, and look at the difference in carriers. Maybe you have a jury rigged (tie strap) tractor with parts from RED and Green ? Contact Hoye, and get the measurements on the two different forks. You might have a Red fork, on a Green tractor ?
 
I would definitely agree that the carrier should sit up in the fork. I thought I could use the old carrier, but there's a bushing in there that's shoved down in and probably no gap to knock it out. I will measure the fork and carrier and give Hoye a call. I assume I wouldn't be able to spread the fork apart to fit the carrier in it.
 
If you are using the reproduction fork with the reproduction carrier then it is just because they are both <U><s></s>slightly<e></e></U> bigger than the originals. If you only use one of those it all goes together fine. Use both and you will have to file one or the other down just slightly. We normally catch if both are ordered at the same time and file them down here but we may have missed it.
 
Thanks for the help! Filed carrier down, put the tractor back together and won't start now...
Is there any reason the starter wouldn't be able to turn the flywheel? I had the starter off and it seems to work ok. Got too late, will have to go back at it tomorrow.
 
Did anything seem to be in a bind when you were putting the tractor back together? Did the starter engage and just unable to turn the engine?
 
Didnt think it was in a bind, but should i be able to turn flywheel with big screwdriver thru hole where starter goes in?
Should there be spacers between pressure plate &amp; flywheel?
Turns over once and battery terminals smoke...
Do I need to split it again?
Please help.
 
Which way should engine turn if sitting in sit, clockwise or counter? Thinking putting socket in pulley and turn with ratchet...
 
Make sure it's in 2wd and jack the Rear end off the ground. Are the wheels trying to spin when you try to start it? Make sure the PTO is in Neutral also. Also try and spin the tires by hand In Neutral and then in Gear. Any Difference?

Turns over once and battery terminals smoke...

If I'm understanding that correctly.That would tell me you have a Bad Connection. Clean your Battery terminals and follow the Neg. Battery Cable to were it connects to the Tractor Frame and remove and clean it. That one was bad on mine which I cleaned the connection and replaced the Cable. Mine would smoke to when I bought it and that took care of that problem.
 
Facing the front of the tractor it should turn clockwise. A socket is a good idea with compression release pulled.

Parts list doesn't shown any spacers between the flywheel and pressure plate.
 
Unable to turn engine even with decompression lever pulled, it was working fine before splitting tractor. All I did was replace rear main seal, oil pan gasket, pilot bushing, clutch plate &amp; disc, and release bearing &amp; carrier.
So I split my tractor again, only took about 1 hr.
Overwhelming consensus is to pull injectors (could it be hydrolocked?) - this is proving to be a tricky task.
Anyone hear of this happening before from doing this work?
Any suggestions on how to remove injectors?
 
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Pulling the decompression would do the same thing and is MUCH easier.

There should be no spacers between pressure plate &amp; flywheel. Are you sure you don't have a bolt that is too long and goes all the way through the flywheel - catching on the block or something? Or possibly dropped a bolt between the flywheel &amp; engine that is wedged in there?
 
We pressed exhaust valves (2 on the outside) in manually with screwdrivers (assuming we pushed them in far enough) and still didn't turn, had flywheel off and tried turning with 2 bolts in the end of the crankshaft. I need to pickup a socket &amp; ratchet from TSC to try turning from front, but doubt it would make a difference.
I don't see how anything could have failed because engine ran fine before splitting and when put back together the engine never turned over, only starter engaged.
Very unlikely anything got into block. Maybe I should drain oil &amp; take bearing housing off again, but don't see how that could be affecting anything.
This sure is frustrating! <E>:?</E> <E>:x</E>
 
It's still split.
When I get home from work I was going to try having someone hold those exhaust valves down again and try turning it with socket &amp; breaker bar unless someone advises me not to.
 
If there was nothing wrong with the engine when you split it there shouldn't be now. I just don't believe it is any kind of a compression lock.

Is the flywheel on or off?
 
What symptoms did you have that led you to replace the clutch? Maybe there would be a clue there?? Something seems awefully strange.
 
Tractor was losing power under load and would come to a stop like the clutch was slipping. The engine didn't bog down or anything. Adjusting the clutch rod seemed to help some, but not enough.
 
When you replaced the rear seal did you just pry out the old seal and drive in the new. Or did you remove the main bearing housing?

It has to be something in the area you have been working.
 
I removed the main bearing housing to change it. I was going to remove that tomorrow night just because it was something I touched. My 5 yr old son has baseball practice (he said daddy is always working on that dumb tractor) and my parents are in town tonight. I did try to turn engine by main pulley nut with a socket and breaker bar while my dad pressed exhaust valves down. I could have tried harder than I did but my dad thought I might snap a ring or something.
I think The Lord is testing my patience with this tractor. At least I have a great neighbor and dad to help me out.
 
Fixed my tractor this morning! Praise The Lord!
Moral of story: spin your engine before you put tractor back together and dont get sidetracked with stuff that wasn't broke before, just undo what u did - troubleshooting 101
Took off main bearing housing, crankshaft spun no problem.  Thrust bearing wasn't stuck in back of housing like it should have been - doh!
Thanks for all the help!
 
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