YM1500D Needs engine work, where to start?

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Hello all, New owner here. I just bought what I will admit is a project from the get-go but I couldn't pass it up. It is a 1500D in ok shape. It does run, but it is louder than normal for sure. I have heard all of the "yanmar hammer" videos, and I have also worked with my father in laws 1300, and this has them all beat. Easily 2-3 times louder. My ears hurt for a few hours after I test-drove this tractor.

So, here is my dilemma. It does start, but you can tell that one cylinder is sticking, dragging, or hitting something somewhere. It will slow or stop the starter as it comes around to that cylinder when it is turning over. Turn the key again and it gets over it through the next one. Once it gets going, it is just super loud, and it sounds like it is from the one cylinder only. I see some "repair" work on the head (possible JB weld) so I am figuring that is related. Nothing seems to leak anything, but the oil smells pretty burned. The previous owner said it will stall after 5-10 minutes or so and it tough to re-start after that until it cools. I have only driven it onto and off of a trailer, so I haven't forced it to do that yet.

So, I am thinking there is something with that cylinder/piston etc that is causing this, but I am concerned about where and how to jump in. I have never dealt with a diesel before so I am a bit clueless on that. I am not even sure what part is what on that engine yet. I am also worried that I will mess something up if I go in without some more knowledge. So where should I start? I was thinking of working from the top down and see what I see. So I would take off the head and work down from there. Any more advice beyond that? It is tough for me to even do that because it IS running, and I hate breaking into running machines. But, I do know this one needs help.

Any advice is appreciated, and I am glad I found this forum!

Thanks,
Scott

 

[winston-HT]

Well, I have advised this before and been reprimanded but here I go again. Based on you description I believe you need to start by pulling the head and probably see which cylinder and what is hitting. I would also advise you get a manual. Sounds to me it would not be good to continue to run this engine as is. Are you pulling the compression release when starting? Do you have bubbles going in the overflow bottle or bubbles in the radiator?

 

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Thanks for the reply. I am not using the compression release when starting. Stupid question, but should I be? I do not see any bubbles in the radiator anywhere, but again, I don't leave it running too long so I might miss them. Also, I don't see an overflow bottle anywhere, if you mean radiator overflow. How are the manuals for these? Easy to follow? I will get one for sure before I get too deep into this.

Thanks again,

Scott

 

[winston-HT]

The compression release holds your valves open as your engine turns over to get oil pressure up and also faster rpms for cranking. You should pull it out before cranking, continue to hold it while cranking till oil light goes out or for no more than 10 seconds (maybe a little less), then push it in and tractor should crank. This also makes it much easier on starter. You should have an L shaped handle on your dash for this. Pull on it with hood up and watch levers on side of rocker arm cover. Your overflow bottle would be #5 in the drawing, you can click on it and see a closeup view. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...E&amp;Category_Code=YM1500COOLING</LINK_TEXT> Not familiar with the repair manual for the 1500 but I expect it would be very helpful to you.

 

[Arnold-HT]

With the engine making that much noise, I would NOT run the engine again. Sounds like something is seriously wrong and running the engine will only make it more expensive to fix. As Winston said, start with the head. Pull it off and see if you can see signs of damage. Work your way down through the pistons then the crank and bearings.

 

[PaulW-HT]

i personally would go the other way by dropping the sump plate and checking bearings and the like first. if it runs OK and not bubbling or boiling just excessively noisy thats where i would go. THEN if nothing is really found then pull the head off it and rebuild as required.

 

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Thanks for all the great info everyone. I think I will drop the sump plate and check that out, and then go from the top. I am going to get a manual ordered and go from there. I will keep you posted on what I find, although I may record the engine noise once before I begin.

Thanks again,
Scott

 

[alan-HT]

It's a popular model, so if you can find a nearby salvage one with a good engine, that would be an option.

 

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Well, I took a closer look at it, and let it run a bit longer. It started leaking pretty badly from the front main seal. So, I put it up on a ramp, and I will get the pan off when I get a chance and work towards figuring this out. I did get some video on my phone, but it is about 2.5mb, so maybe too big to put on here. My manuals should be on the way, so hopefully soon I will get back to it.

Scott

 

[wayne c-HT]

I went through the same deal. My post "YM1500 Won't Run" is a history of what all I went through to get to my problem area. Hopefully yours is not as deep.Everyone on the message board has been a big help. You may find some helpful information in the questions and replys I received. I will have a totally rebuilt motor once it is complete. There is nothing you can get into that these guys and a manual can't get you out of. I'll help if I can but these other guys know 100 times more than I do. The diagrams in the parts catalogue online are exceptionally useful if you get stuck on something.Good luck.

 

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Thanks for the info on your repair wayne. Did you get yours fixed? I am pretty wary of splitting the tractor, since I have no concrete to put it on, and no one to really help me much.

I did end up taking the pan off today, and I was expecting a lot of junk in the bottom of the pan. There was some bits in there, likely from the front bearing, but not as bad as I thought. I did not see anything out of the ordinary in the bottom end, so that was sort of disappointing. I was hoping for a smoking gun. The only thing I noticed was that the connecting rods had a LITTLE play in them. I am not sure if they are supposed to have some play or none at all.

So, I thought I would see if there was a way to change the front bearing without splitting the tractor. Sound possible? I doubt it, but I thought I would ask.

I figure I will measure the crank/connecting rods like Wayne, and see if they are in spec and in good shape. If so, maybe I could change the front bearing and see how that improves. I really might not have a way to split the tractor, so I will think about it some and see what I can find out. It sounds like a lot of work for one person with few tools.

I tried to attach the video, but .mov files are not allowed. Thats too bad, because I wanted to get a 2nd opinion on it.

Thanks as usual,

Scott

 

[winston-HT]

I don't think you can change the front main bearing without removing the engine. What is it that makes you think the front main might be bad? Rod bearings should have around .001" to .003" clearance, that wouldn't be classified as a little play I don't think. You can buy some inexpensive plastigage and check them while you have the pan off.

 

[HomeBrewDude-HT]

I think the bearing is bad because the engine seizes up after about 5 minutes, and I can see oil dripping from the front seal pretty bad while running. So, I am assuming that bearing is causing the sieze. I guess I am not positive that is the cause though. I will get some of the plastigage soon before I do much more with it. I am curious about the clearance on the rod bearings.

Sounds like I might be stuck on getting this fixed anytime soon then. Rats!

Thanks,

Scott

 

[winston-HT]

The front main bearing is a one piece bearing and checking it out is going to be difficult without disassembly. The crankshaft has to be removed to pull the front main bearing. The front seal can be changed out without removing the engine. I suggest you go ahead and check rod bearings and see what that shows to begin with. I'm skeptical the front main is what is locking the engine up. Your going to end up with the head off before this is over but one step at a time is good.

 

[wayne c-HT]

<QUOTE author="HomeBrewDude"><s>

</s>Thanks for the info on your repair wayne. Did you get yours fixed? I am pretty wary of splitting the tractor, since I have no concrete to put it on, and no one to really help me much.

I did end up taking the pan off today, and I was expecting a lot of junk in the bottom of the pan. There was some bits in there, likely from the front bearing, but not as bad as I thought. I did not see anything out of the ordinary in the bottom end, so that was sort of disappointing. I was hoping for a smoking gun. The only thing I noticed was that the connecting rods had a LITTLE play in them. I am not sure if they are supposed to have some play or none at all.

So, I thought I would see if there was a way to change the front bearing without splitting the tractor. Sound possible? I doubt it, but I thought I would ask.

I figure I will measure the crank/connecting rods like Wayne, and see if they are in spec and in good shape. If so, maybe I could change the front bearing and see how that improves. I really might not have a way to split the tractor, so I will think about it some and see what I can find out. It sounds like a lot of work for one person with few tools.

I tried to attach the video, but .mov files are not allowed. Thats too bad, because I wanted to get a 2nd opinion on it.

Thanks as usual,


If you have already taken the pan off and haven't found anything major in the bottom that is good. The play in the rod is concerning. Since you have the bottom end visible it is easy to pull the head like Winston said. At that point you can take the caps off the rods and get the pistons out through the top. That way you can inspect the pistons for cracks or breakage and the liners for scratches. Also this is the only way to get a view of the crankshafts condition @ the rod bearings. I dreaded dismantling everything also but it is the quickest way to find out if you are OK on the bottom and top end without seperating the tractor. If the crank shaft is worn at the bearings you are going to have to seperate the tractor to get it out and have it turned @ a machine shop. It looks and sounds worse than it is. I seperated mine by myself but I was on a concrete drive way. A floor jack and jack stands is all it takes and it just rolls apart.
Hopefully it will be something like rings or a piston that could have been damaged by starting fluid being used to crank it. That is what I suspect happened to mine.Just go slow and easy and keep parts Identified where they go and you will be fine. If you have to pull the crank shaft trust me you are much better off to take the engine completley out so you can work on it at a bench.The governer linkage is the hardest thing to deal with getting it apart. If you have a manual it helps alot along with the parts diagrams Hoye has to order parts from. Anyway good luck. I'll help all I can but these other guys have more years in than I.Ther is nothing much from the transmission forward that I haven't taken apart.Now if Ican just get it all back together!!!!!!!



Scott<e>

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[HomeBrewDude-HT]

Well, it took me some time to get back at it, but I did find my problem. I took the connecting rod bearings off the crank and the front one looked really bad. It was all jagged and very thin. A closer look revealed.......a cracked crank right underneath. I didn't think that was possible to do, but I guess it may have been caused by someone using starter fluid or something of the like.

Sadly, I think it will be easier to get a different engine rather than fix this one. I think that with that being as loose as it is, and the odd block repair, I can't trust anything from the block/pistons down. I really can't afford even a used engine for a while so I am not sure what to do. I also worry that I will be spending a ton on a used engine only to have similar issues shortly down the road.

Well, thanks for the info everyone. Hopefully I can figure out a way to make this workable again.

Scott

 

[winston-HT]

Wow, sorry about the crank, I've been there, done that. My 2002 had a broken crank. repairs ran close to $2000. Starting fluid was not the culprit as long as the tractor was in my hands it was never used. <E</E> <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...ROD&amp;Product_Code=724160-21700</LINK_TEXT>

 

[Anonymous-HT-0-HT]

Since you have pulled the pan check very closely........you may have a broken crankshaft. It is not uncommon for one to break on this engine, and it would produce excessively loud hammering noise. I purchased a ym1500d that had this problem, wound up having to replace the crankshaft and since I had it out I completely rebuilt the engine. I purchased a transmission jack from Harbor Freight to support the rear of the tractor, blocked the front end to support, and used an A-frame to remove the engine. If you don't have the shop manual already, you need to buy one from Hoye. The people at Hoye Tractor are the BEST of the best, always willing to help with information, and fast shippers for parts.