YM1500d

[stevep41-HT]

Hello,
I have a YM1500d that I picked up a few weeks ago.
Here's the problem.
The main gear shifter had a clip that would jump out. I ordered everything and replaced the plastic ball, spring, clips, etc etc.
<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...Y&amp;Category_Code=YM1500SHIFTER</LINK_TEXT> (Parts 3,4,6,7,8,9)
Finally got it all together. That much is over and done with.
For a while, the gears work fine. Then you go to change gears and Reverse is where Neutral is, You can't find Neutral anywhere. I've had to back out of the fields all the way to the house a few times now. I take off the main shifter housing, push the clutch in, set the gears to where Neutral is, and adjust the forks to the proper position. Put it together and it works OK for an hour or 2 then it's like the forks are jumping out of alignment when you shift, especially from 3rd to Reverse or Reverse to any other gear

Help! .

 

[winston-HT]

Could be weak or broken detent springs. ref #22. Did ref#12 look ok?

 

[stevep41-HT]

I don't think it's the spring. I can't move the shifter without a wooden handle from an axe to peck it one way or the other. It's tight as the other 2 forks.

 

[Norm-HT]

Check the reverse shift fork, item 20, for looseness or wear.

 

[stevep41-HT]

<COLOR color="#4000FF"><s></s><B><s></s><U><s></s><I><s></s>Alrighty!! Matt at HOYE You are DA MAN!! Thank you. <e></e></I><e></e></U><e></e></B><e></e></COLOR>
Here's the run down for future references. I have an old style Green Yanmar 1979. The drawings and schematics aren't exactly the same, but close enough for government work.

On top of each shifting FORK (#15, 17, 20) there is a very small tension pin. It is a 4 mm X 12 mm metric pin. These pins hold the forks in place inside of the shifter plate. Inside of each pin is ANOTHER tension pin 2mm x 12 mm. This is to provide it with strength. Matt at HOYE had to dig up an old manual and dig through it to find this info. You have to take the forks off ( Please take pictures 1st so you don't forget how the forks go back on!!! The directions DO MATTER!.

Here's my directions. Take off the shifter housing (4 bolts). Flip upside down. Take picture. On 1 side you will see 3 small holes along the edge of the housing. Using a 1/8 punch carefully hammer the punch down about 1/4 of an inch. This will push the pins inside of the rods holding the forks on. Then using a 1/4 inch punch, knock the rods out of the other side. The fork with Reverse is the long one. CAREFULLY remove the cotter pin with you hand OVER the opening. The spring that is in there will fly 20 feet or better and will cost you $5.00 to order. The center rod has a snap ring that will require a snap ring pliers with a 90 degree tip. There is a spring and ball bearing in the center rod.
Be Careful. Watch the O rings on end of each rod. Disassemble.
Put the 4mm pins in 1st. Then drive in the 2mm pins inside of the 4mm. pins.
Put back together.
On the CENTER Rod, Don't forget the snap ring. Here's how to get the bearing back in. Takes 2 people. Put the rod back in from the other direction. Please make sure you do not get the rod flipped around, all of this stuff is 1 way!!! Drive the pins out of each rod and set aside. Drive the rod back in carefully until you get to the fork. Drive the rod 3/4ths of the way through the shifting fork. Using Pliers put the spring in. Now put the bearing in. Have some1 hold the housing with a hammer at the ready. Take a Flat Head Screwdriver and using the edge carefully depress the bearing into the spring that recedes into the fork. Once you have the bearing depressed, have your helper hit the rod quickly to drive it over the bearing.
Last make sure to line up the holes to drive your 3 pins back into the ends.

Working like a charm!!!

 

[Norm-HT]

So what was the problem? All I read was disassemble/reassemble.