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YMG1800

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BillH-HT

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I just bought a Yanmar YMG1800 and I don't see a listing for that model at the Hoye Tractor site. What should that model be equivalent to in their listing, for basic maintenance parts. By Internet poking around, I'm thinking F18 or YM180 or YM1800, but they're all starting to look the same... <E>:)</E>

--Bill
 
does it have "gray market"japanese features such as japanese labels or throttle that is pulled back to increase RPM? .Welcome BTW. <E>:)</E>
 
Oh, it is definitely Gray-- hand throttle that pulls back, all manner of Japanese labels (tho it does have some English labels).

Thanks,

--Bill
 
I read on another forum it is very close to a John Deere 750 4 wheel drive. The 750 has basically the same engine as my ym2002d (3t80u-nap). What engine does your ymg1800d have?
 
The Engine# is 3T80U-SB. 3 Cylinder, 20HP, 2WD.

So it is close (not sure what the difference in the -SB and the -nap suffixes are).

My first tractor. I'm having fun...

--Bill
 
The John Deere 750 has a 3t80u-j. Like you, I wonder about the suffix letters. I know the p on the end of mine is not on all ym2002d tractors. Mine has power steering so I sort of conclude that p may have something to do with that but of course that is just my thinking. Where did you get the 20 hp? Is that on the engine plate? The ym1802 has a 3t80u-nb but is only rated at 18 pto hp.

Best of luck to you with your new purchase. I think the YMG series have a few more bells and whistles and went up to 3 cylinder engines.
 
The "G" models are just later versions of the original, (YM1800, 2000), that first came out in 1988. Aaron, (Hoye), can probably tell you what specific parts differences might be.
 
The Engine Plate says 18HP, I think I got the 20HP from a "tractor info webpage". Ah, Hoye does list a "G1800D", with 20HP. Some specs float.

I'll get used to finding out which parts fit where... <E>;)</E>

Two days and "I don't see how I ever did without one..."

--Bill
 
I've gotten an Operation Manual from Hoye and have been going through and zeroing out the maintenance and checking the tractor out.

One thing that is puzzling is a 5/16" (8mm) hose that runs from a barbed hose fitting on the block just ahead of the starter to a hose fitting on the lower tank of the radiator. This hose is shown (but not numbered) on the (YM220) engine parts diagram in the Operation Manual. It passes close to the (unused and abandoned) coolant drain plug on the left frame rail and I suspect that this hose is just a block/radiator drain line that should be connected to the (functional) coolant drain plug via a T-fitting. No clear pictures in the Op Manual.

Any ideas?

Another thing-- noticed today that the plastic Oil Filler Cap on the valve cover has bunged up threads and won't tighten. It stays put, but tends to leak a bit. Before I talk to Hoye about a new replacement I thought I'd see if anyone had a used on I could get or could offer an alternative part? 3T80U-SB 3-cylinder diesel.

--Bill
 
Same one. And for $6+change and not an obscure part, I'll get it from Hoye. Shipping would have me for lunch, so I'll combine it with my next larger order.

That extra hose does what I thought it does, then. It looks ancient and is leaking where it attaches to the radiator, so I'll fix it. And look at the abandoned drain valve and see if it's fixable...

--Bill
 
I'm a big advocate of magnetic drain plugs. I don't think that my YMG1800 (3T80U-SB engine) has them in the engine or the tansmission/hydraulic sump, so I'm inclined to add them on an upcoming oil change. Does any know what thread sizes engine drain plug and transmission drain plug<U><s></s>s<e></e></U> are so I can hunt up a set?

Thanks,

--Bill
 
I'm pretty confident the transmission is a 14mm-1.5. Would I be my life on it? No.

Just guessing the engine drain plug is a 10mm-1.25 or could be 1.5

How is that for not help? <E>:mrgreen:</E> Next time I change oil I will check mine out.
 
No problem. This is such an obscure request that it'd be a longshot for anyone to have that info. Though sometimes that is listed in partsbooks. I won't need the transmission/hydraulic oil for some time-- the previous owner changed it and cleaned the screen (no spin-on filter) before I bought it and at 6+ gallons capacity, I'll wait til the clock runs out on it. The engine oil was pretty gunky looking so he changed oil to soak up some of the sludge (so to speak) without changing the oil filter and after I have a good hot run to stir things up I've got another oil and filter change lined up. It would be nice to go magnetic on that drainplug but no big deal, I can measure the threads and get it next time.

Whilst I've got a channel open-- the throttle linkage has some adjustments, etc , that I'd like to go through and check. No problems, it's a double-check maintenance thing. Is there anything online that runs thru the adjustment?

Springtime is tractortime.

--Bill
 
Another quirk of my gray YMG1800-- I found a couple of bad grease fittings on it today and found that they used an "odd" thread pitch-- metric 6x0.75 instead of a "usual" 6x1.0, at least on the control pedal cross-bar. I'll double-check the thread pitch on the other (steering and front-end) fittings before I head out tomorrow, they may be different...

--Bill
 
I checked-- the grease fittings on the steering parts are standard M6x1.0, so no mystery or intrigue there. The fittings on the tubes on the brake and clutch pedals are the fine M6x0.75 to work in the thin tubing. They hang down below exposed and appear to be prone to damage, so I'll plan to pick up a bag of them...

--Bill
 
When I replace the occasional zerk on mine, half the time I find a 45-degree configuration makes greasing easier, so you might want to look for an assortment (straights, 90s, 45s).
 
Good point. I've already encountered that-- laying on the ground and without a flex hose on the grease gun I couldn't get to some of the straight Zerks and I've already replaced them with 45's.

--Bill
 
I changed the fuel filter today and discovered a "feature" not covered in the generic owner's handbook or discussions online. Instead of having "Bleeder Screws" that are loosened to let the air bubble out, it has Bleeder Buttons. They look like bolts with 17mm hex heads backed up by springs (rather like a needle valve). Push the button to bleed the fuel line.

Live and learn.

--Bill
 
<QUOTE author="BillH"><s>
</s>I'm a big advocate of magnetic drain plugs. I don't think that my YMG1800 (3T80U-SB engine) has them in the engine or the tansmission/hydraulic sump, so I'm inclined to add them on an upcoming oil change. Does any know what thread sizes engine drain plug and transmission drain plug<U><s></s>s<e></e></U> are so I can hunt up a set?<e>
Click to expand...
/s>engine drain plug thread size<e>[/b]</e></B> is M12x1.25

FWIW.

--Bill
 
No shop manual, yet, though I'll get one once I get all these little "startup maintenance issues" out of the way.

Tomorrow I'm going to check the valve lash. Looks straightforward-- undo the Thermostart Reservoir, unclip the compression release rod, remove three bolts and lift the valve cover off. Bump the engine around till the rocker arms for that valve are both closed, adjust, and repeat. I've got a new o-ring/valve cover gasket.

Anything else I should check while the valve cover is off? I assume that the valve cover/compression release is as straightforward as it looks.

--Bill
 
Worked like a charm-- the valve lash was way loose, between .010 and .014" , but at least I didn't find a tight valve. The only problem I ran into was that the valve cover o-ring/gasket was about 1" too short by circumference, so I supplemented the old o-ring with a dab of sealant and re-used it.

Don't suppose I got a wrong o-ring (Part # H121450-11310)? Motor# 3T80U-SB.

--Bill
 
<QUOTE author="BillH"><s>
</s>Worked like a charm-- the valve lash was way loose, between .010 and .014" , but at least I didn't find a tight valve. The only problem I ran into was that the valve cover o-ring/gasket was about 1" too short by circumference, so I supplemented the old o-ring with a dab of sealant and re-used it.

Don't suppose I got a wrong o-ring (Part # H121450-11310)? Motor# 3T80U-SB.

--Bill<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
What tractor did you order the gasket for? It appears that all of the gray market YM18xx tractors use the 1550 gasket. Best to ask before ordering for the oddball YMG1800.
 
I put a little button magnet on the inside top of every oil-drain plug. If it needs metal-cleaning-off after use, I put two or three inside the pan, where I can reach in and remove them when the plug is next out.
 
I'm thinking I've ordered these batch of parts from the YM180/180D pages here. (Or maybe the YM1810 or YM220-- I've browsed all three.)

The specific VCG/o-ring was from:

<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...11310&amp;Category_Code=180ENGINE</LINK_TEXT>

The -1550 VCG is listed a YM1810 part whereas the -1450 VCG is a YM180 part.

I noted on the on-line order that the parts are for a "YMG1800" with a "Motor# 3T80U-SB". Apparently this is one of those "Gray Areas" for gray-market parts. <E>:wink:</E> Live and learn.

Let me see what the consensus in this thread is and I'll see about ordering another on soon. The gooped-up one will hold for a while, but that o-ring was ancient. I'm getting ready to do a minor radiator repair and a couple of the radiator hoses look old and I'll be working an order up. Are there any quirks to gray-market hoses I should know about?

I wonder if I shouldn't call up and talk to someone when ordering parts instead of doing it online?

--Bill
 
<QUOTE author="BillH"><s>
</s>I'm thinking I've ordered these batch of parts from the YM180/180D pages here. (Or maybe the YM1810 or YM220-- I've browsed all three.)

The specific VCG/o-ring was from:

<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...11310&amp;Category_Code=180ENGINE</LINK_TEXT>

The -1550 VCG is listed a YM1810 part whereas the -1450 VCG is a YM180 part.

I noted on the on-line order that the parts are for a "YMG1800" with a "Motor# 3T80U-SB". Apparently this is one of those "Gray Areas" for gray-market parts. <E>:wink:</E> Live and learn.

Let me see what the consensus in this thread is and I'll see about ordering another on soon. The gooped-up one will hold for a while, but that o-ring was ancient. I'm getting ready to do a minor radiator repair and a couple of the radiator hoses look old and I'll be working an order up. Are there any quirks to gray-market hoses I should know about?

I wonder if I shouldn't call up and talk to someone when ordering parts instead of doing it online?

--Bill<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>
It's definitely not YM180 parts, totally different engine, but if ordering from Hoye, I would definitely contact them for the correct part.
 
I've been doing some digital-thumbing thru online parts catalogs/etc and I'm inclined to think that the YMG1810 is a match engine-wise. Hoye has a YMG1800 parts book available, but I'm looking at online alternatives for the parts search. Yeah, spoilt by the Internet.

Now that I've done oil, filters, checked this and that and GUNK'd off at least the top layer of oil and grime, I'm spotting minor leaks, weeps and seeps.

One thing I noticed is that the fuel cutoff valve on the filter housing has a slight weep. It looks repairable, do ya 'spose there is an o-ring/washer available from Hoye? I've got pitiful fuel lines that need replacement, I prolly need to remove the fuel tank, agitate it and clean out decades of grunge and this would be a good time to R&amp;R the fuel valve. And I need to check under the dash panel, lordy knows what is under there. Mercy, projects seem to snowball, no? And it's just a tractor.

Anyways, what about the fuel valve repair/o-ring?

--Bill
 
I've poked around in the online parts lists, and although I can probably get many parts by guessing at similar models, it'll still be hit-or-miss with some things on a gray-market tractor. For $40 I can get a YMG1800-specific parts book which will help the odds. And another plus to a parts book is that you get exploded parts drawings which can be useful when wrenching.

Thanks for the o-ring recommendation, Carey. I'll include it on my next order.

--Bill
 
A parts book is great for exploded views, but not much good for parts ordering. You won't find many parts by part #. Best to tell dealer what you need. Best to determine your problem, and if "O" ring find an "O" ring. Everybody has them.
 
<QUOTE author="Norm"><s>
</s>A parts book is great for exploded views, but not much good for parts ordering. You won't find many parts by part #. Best to tell dealer what you need. Best to determine your problem, and if "O" ring find an "O" ring. Everybody has them.<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

I have found typing the yanmar part number in Hoyes parts "search" field does pretty good. Also google works pretty good. I don't know that Hoye has all parts cross referenced to the Yanmar part numbers but a large part of them are. I feel pretty confident ordering parts using the original Yanmar part numbers given in the parts manuals.
 
I was going to Post the Japanese Standard # but it didn't show anything.But when I checked if the Or-240 was a good # it was <E>:D</E> . The Stand. Jap.# should be P10A. Oh the Yanmar # is 24311-240100 and it did show the same OR. <E>:wink:</E>
 
O-rings are not all equal, by specs and materials. Here is a quick reference to o-rings:
<QUOTE><s>
</s>O-ring cross reference<e>[/b]</e></B>

Here is a bunch of O-ring reference information to help you find what you are looking for.

AS 568 A O-ring standard specifications (inch)
BS 1806 O-ring standard specifications (inch)
BS 4518 O-ring standard specifications (metric)
DIN 3771 O-ring standard specifications (metric)
ISO 3601-1 O-ring standard specifications (inch and metric)
JIS B 2401 O-ring standard specifications (metric)
Metric O-ring system
NF T 47-501 O-ring standard specifications (metric)
SMS 1586 O-ring standard specifications (metric)
UNI O-ring standard specifications (metric)


<B><s></s>O-ring material<e></e></B>

O-rings are available in many other materials than the two listed below. But, Buna-N and Viton will suffice very nicely in the vast majority of motorcycle applications.

http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/o-rings.htm
<e>
Click to expand...
/e></QUOTE>

--Bill
 
Although I've never seen your model, I've seen weeping from the fuel filter housing from:

-O-ring at the top (now I order a new one with every second filter)
-one of the two bleed screws (replace the felt washer behind)
-bowl threads stripped (replace bowl)
-crack in the bowl (try epoxy)
 
Hi, all. No problems with the tractor. After I got the "initial maintenance backlog" out of the way, the tractor has been running reliably. Excepting, of course, the inconsequential stuff that always comes up on a 25 year old machine. <E>:wink:</E>

It's turning into a miserable Summer... <E>:oops:</E>

--Bill
 
Hope ya'll aren't having too miserable a Winter. At least in the SE we had decent warm snaps among the bitter cold days.

The Yanmar has been running reliably once I got the maintenance backlog whittled down. Along with the usual stuff on an old piece of machinery-- minor dribbles on the radiator, the battery gave up after 6 months (amazed it lasted that long) and after I replaced the battery the alternator regulator/diode box went south, but a new one was as close as Hoye.

The alternator works fine, but I'm toying with the idea of going in and replacing the shaft bearings (that's about the only thing mechanical that can go wrong). Looks simple, but has anyone done a bearing replacement?

The engine never overheated, but I found that it would never warm up on cold weather. The thermostat was stuck open and the replacement was, miraculously, available at the local Mahindra (formerly John Deere and before that Yanmar). Dusty old stock, but it works like a charm.

Is there a tutorial/troubleshooting page online for the Thermostart system? The tractor starts with some prodding in cold weather (20's F) and I've not gotten to looking at the TS system. The Red Lamp on the right of the dash blinks constantly and I'm not sure if it's working. I've seen the Hoye intro: http://www.hoyetractor.com/thermostart.htm but I'd like to have a little more idea of what to look for when I tear into it...

Stay warm...

--Bill
 
Here is a TBN thread on my replacement of dynamo bearings. I have since replaced the dynamo but that is another story. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.tractor...6414-ym2002d-dynamo-bearings.html</LINK_TEXT>

Is your red light similar to the one shown in this picture? If so, that should come on when the switch is turned counterclockwise and held, then automatically go off after a period of time. My light no longer works but when my key is turned counterclockwise and help the unit operated as it is suppose too. You can touch the area of the heating element after holding it in thermostart position for 15 seconds or so. It should be warm to the touch. If not, probably not working. When I do use my thermostart (30 or below) I hold it for 15 or 20 seconds before engaging the starter. She will bust right off.

34251_afd6121f56c6eea243ceb801e2073fc3.jpg
 
It uses 6201's (bearing#)? Everything in the universe uses 6201's, it seems. And seeing your "exploded views", it comes apart about like I expected it should. Good deal.

Yep, the exact same blinking red lamp. I'll check it out later today-- first priority is crawlspace crawling and checking water pipe insulation... single digits later this week.

--B(rrr)ill
 
Checked out the Thermostart assembly: no heat, and no 12v to it, and the fuse "looked good", so next warm snap I'll start tracing wires. The Thermostart assembly is probably good, it had 12 ohms resistance, which is about 12 watts, a reasonable ballpark figure.

It does seem to be a typical Thermostart-- I was thinking it might be different because there is a relay/control box on the firewall (about 2" square and 1" deep) labeled "_LAME HEATER UNIT", with a 6-wire plug. The "G" in YM<B><s></s>G<e></e></B>1800 is some sort of luxury model, with extra bells and whistles. That control box might be some sort of sequencer for the Thermostart so the user doesn't have to hold the key over, or it may be some sort of defunct block heater. It's not on my generic wiring schematic, so I'll just wing it...

Brrrr. Nuther wave of cold air arrives....

--Bill
 
Here is a picture of my thermostart control box. Doesn't have six wires. Also a picture of the circuit board. <ATTACHMENT filename="100_2362.JPG" index="1"><s>[attachment=1]</s>100_2362.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT><ATTACHMENT filename="100_6549.JPG" index="0"><s>[attachment=0]</s>100_6549.JPG<e>[/attachment]</e></ATTACHMENT>

34251_c8736f3fc12eccb0ca63aaaa32474ddb.jpg


34251_3be41f1bb57fa0dcda0b9bafe5549c79.jpg
 
Yep, that's it. Mine has a 3x2 plug with one connection not used (5-position). Has the same three colored wires as yours, but with an extra Blue and a White.

That thermostart control box is not included in the generic schematic in my general "Operation Manual" so I need to do more digging. I'd suspect a bad box since the Red Thermostart light blinks slowly all the time.

Thanks, again...

--Bill




PS-- it was a bad box. Since I'll need to use the Thermostart only a couple of times a year, I've "reverted" to the old T'start way of operation and eliminated the control box, applying juice to the heater coil directly from the ignition switch. That, along with a functional engine thermostat, makes the old girl almost a joy to use on cold weather... <E>:D</E>

--b
 
Good morning. Almost Springlike outside and good working weather. For a change.

On my tractor the Lower Lift Arms are attached to the lower pins on the transmission/PTO case using snap-action lynch pins. Yesterday while doing heavy bushogging I had one of those lynch pins unsnap and fall off, causing the lower lift arm to come loose from the PTO case. I don't see how it could become unsnapped and I've not seen anything online on "the proper way" to attach the lift arms.

Should those lift arms be secured to the pins with the quick-connect lynch pins, or should a more "substantial" clevis pin- cotter pin arrangement be used?

Thanks again, in advance...

--Bill
 
I don't know if there is a rule but I believe most times the arms are held with lynch pins. I can tell you from experience there are different quality lynch pins. I bought a lynch pin kit at Harbor Freight and the spring action on those pins have something lacking. I also notice at Tractor Supply they have different price lynch pins and they are different quality as well. I have found buying they higher priced ones may pay off. Especially if you work around brush or anything that might possibly catch and open the spring closer. That is my 2 cents worth.
 
These lynch pins were on it when I bought it and I've not even had the need to even touch them (til now)-- though they "looked OK". The errant one was replaced with a quality TSC pin, and the other one will be soon.

--Bill


ps-- yep, replaced the remaining old one and it very weak spring action. Checked the others and they were OK. And I remembered that a few minutes before the mishap I was doing "backup bushogging" at the edge of a brush thicket so I could go in later and take out the heavy stuff with a chainsaw. I'll remember to double-check from here on out.

It is slow-going now, anyway-- I'm doing a 2-3 year growth of tall weeds and broomsedge and briars (ouch) and I have to stop every few minutes to clear the fluffy-seeds from the radiator screen. I need to hunt up a couple of string magnets to temporarily mount a piece of window screen over the front grille to work as a "pre-fluff-filter" so I won't have to stop the engine-lift the hood-rake the stuff off the radiator screen...

Memo to self-- check the air cleaner....

--b
 
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