Zane--hydraulic referal--HELP!

ffrnempt

Member
Zane,

I got you on the forum as the 8N hydraulics guy (The Man).

Please let me know if you want me to post my issue here or by e-mail. Anyone with 8N hydraulics/pump knowledge--please.

In short, can I rebuild that pump myself and do I even need to?

Thanks
 
Didn't mean to totally single you out, Zane, but a trusted source told me to find you for this. I don't think he (or I) meant to rule out others. Our new home is 10 acres near West Blocton, AL, and I don't think you're far from there.

Anyway. I have a 1949 8N (S/N 212025). I just got it a week or so ago, and I got it for a few reasons. I want it to look as good as I can make it look, but I need it for work. In particular, a 5' bush hog, stretching fence, and an auger. In addition, both my grandfathers bought new 8Ns in 1948, and both to repace horses in the fields. They were both Missouri farmers. My uncle still uses my mom's dad's 8N.

The tractor starts right up. Takes a few minutes to idle. On the weekend, I changed the engine oil and filter and did air cleaner maint.
The engine hesitates significantly on load or throttle. This coming weekend--a new manifold and exhaust, plugs, wires, carb rebuild/fuel system service, and change hydraulic oil. The points and condenser are new. I'll be changing to EI as soon as I receive it.

The hydraulics/PTO work. With the bush hog, it lifts right up, but is a bit "jerky." It makes more noise than I think it should, but it's hard to tell over the manifold leak.

When I raise the bush hog, shut off the PTO, and then shut down the engine, in 75 minutes, the bush hog is sitting on the floor.

I don't know exactly what the fluid should look like, but it looks a little milky to me and very thick--like slightly milky honey. No odor. I can do the hydraulic checks when I do the other work this weekend. Should I just do the basic checks like in the 50 tips, or is there more? I'm not afraid of mechanics, but I work on 2-stroke outboards mostly--tractors are something new. If the hydraulics work as I describe, should I just leave them be? The pump rebuild sound a bit daunting. On a lesser level, so does the cylinder and piston. Upgrade to the neoprene gismo, replace the 3 ring piston if needed, or leave it alone if it works. There are didderent pump kits available (as you are well aware). As I said, for now I need it for work, but I generally don't half fix things. If it needs fixin', I'd rather just make it right and be ready for another 50 years!

I think I can get the engine running properly. But I'm concerned that wounded hydraulics will let me down when I need them the most. It may be early summer before I really need the auger, but I need the bush hog pretty soon. If it needs hydraulic service, I'd rather do it now. Of course, money IS an object.

Sorry I'm so wordy. I've wanted an 8N for decades and I finally have one, and land that needs a tractor.

Anything you guys can tell me is a blessing.

Thanks

Doug---
 
(quoted from post at 05:21:30 01/26/10) Didn't mean to totally single you out, Zane, but a trusted source told me to find you for this. I don't think he (or I) meant to rule out others. Our new home is 10 acres near West Blocton, AL, and I don't think you're far from there.

Anyway. I have a 1949 8N (S/N 212025). I just got it a week or so ago, and I got it for a few reasons. I want it to look as good as I can make it look, but I need it for work. In particular, a 5' bush hog, stretching fence, and an auger. In addition, both my grandfathers bought new 8Ns in 1948, and both to repace horses in the fields. They were both Missouri farmers. My uncle still uses my mom's dad's 8N.

The tractor starts right up. Takes a few minutes to idle. On the weekend, I changed the engine oil and filter and did air cleaner maint.
The engine hesitates significantly on load or throttle. This coming weekend--a new manifold and exhaust, plugs, wires, carb rebuild/fuel system service, and change hydraulic oil. The points and condenser are new. I'll be changing to EI as soon as I receive it.

The hydraulics/PTO work. With the bush hog, it lifts right up, but is a bit "jerky." It makes more noise than I think it should, but it's hard to tell over the manifold leak.

When I raise the bush hog, shut off the PTO, and then shut down the engine, in 75 minutes, the bush hog is sitting on the floor.

I don't know exactly what the fluid should look like, but it looks a little milky to me and very thick--like slightly milky honey. No odor. I can do the hydraulic checks when I do the other work this weekend. Should I just do the basic checks like in the 50 tips, or is there more? I'm not afraid of mechanics, but I work on 2-stroke outboards mostly--tractors are something new. If the hydraulics work as I describe, should I just leave them be? The pump rebuild sound a bit daunting. On a lesser level, so does the cylinder and piston. Upgrade to the neoprene gismo, replace the 3 ring piston if needed, or leave it alone if it works. There are didderent pump kits available (as you are well aware). As I said, for now I need it for work, but I generally don't half fix things. If it needs fixin', I'd rather just make it right and be ready for another 50 years!

I think I can get the engine running properly. But I'm concerned that wounded hydraulics will let me down when I need them the most. It may be early summer before I really need the auger, but I need the bush hog pretty soon. If it needs hydraulic service, I'd rather do it now. Of course, money IS an object.

Sorry I'm so wordy. I've wanted an 8N for decades and I finally have one, and land that needs a tractor.

Anything you guys can tell me is a blessing.

Thanks

Doug---

I am sure Zane will post his trouble shooting tips...

If it takes 75 min. to leak down then I would say the lift cyl, safety valve and gaskets are very good (brag'n rites) the noise is some what normal but may indicate a worn pump,,, if you go for a rebuild of the pump you will need to go for the kill and get the pump chambers also,,, the chambers are the cylinder block and have the valves in the chamber,,, I spec you would not drop a new piston in a worn cylinder and call this a rebuild...

As far as the oil It may be normal,,, you should know what water in the oil looks like,,, you also should know how to check for oil in the sump (foot, lower unit)...

Also sounds like you are a candidate for a live hyd. set up,,, its not gonna be much more than a complete pump rebuild and a nice upgrade...

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
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