Zinc head nuts

[2ruNgineer]

Is it advisable to use zinc Grade 8 nuts for the head?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Do you mean zinc plated?

 

[2ruNgineer]

Yes. That's what i mean.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:59:26 02/25/20) Is it advisable to use zinc Grade 8 nuts for the head?

Fine. In fact grade 8 bolts and nuts are commonly yellow zinc plated.

TOH

 

[oldsarge]

If ya wanna take 'em off again use the right brass nuts

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Why would anyone use brass nuts on the head?
75 Tips

 

[oldsarge]

You're right,its the manifold nuts should be brass................mea culpa

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

You are thinking of the exhaust manifold hex nuts, spec is 7/16-20 BRASS. Cylinder Head hex nuts are 7/16-20 steel. Grade 8 is just fine.


Tim Daley(MI)

 

[SlimB]

FWIW, the original type cad plated nuts #B6064 are thirty cents each at Mac's Auto Parts...

Slim

 

[Bob - MI]

Side note: cadmium plating was widely used back in the day and it left a yellow hue on the parts. Today finding a plating company that will do cad is almost impossible due to EPA regulations. Today's substitute is yellow zinc and that's what you see on the upper grade bolts. Plating imparts no strength regardless of what type it is. It's only there to reduce corrosion.

 

[2ruNgineer]

Thanks for all the hints guys. Lots of rookie questions coming your way. My first engine tear down and rebuild ever. Although I've had this tractor for over ten years, i'm still in the process of learning so much about it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 11:08:33 02/26/20) Side note: cadmium plating was widely used back in the day and it left a yellow hue on the parts. Today finding a plating company that will do cad is almost impossible due to EPA regulations. Today's substitute is yellow zinc and that's what you see on the upper grade bolts. Plating imparts no strength regardless of what type it is. It's only there to reduce corrosion.

Cadmium plating is alive and well - widely used in the marine and aviation industries where the applications are demanding and there are no suitable alternatives. AN certified fasteners are commonly cad plated but very pricey due to the certifications required. I'm sure one of our airplane guys could provide specifics.

You likely wont find a mom and pop cad plating shop in your neighborhood because of the environmental controls that are required for that process. You will however find many industrial companies that will accept small and short run jobs. Again, it wont be cheap.

There are lots of alternative surface treatments that are perfectly fine for less demanding applications like antique tractors....

TOH

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Cadmium comes in Silver Blue and Gold. Zinc was a cheaper alternative. If you want originality, Cad can be found. EASTWOOD PRODUCTS sells a Silver Cad paint if you want to fake it. Are you using your Essential Manuals for reference with your rebuild project?

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Everyone seems to be going with head bolts these days. Here's a 7/16-14 x 7/16-20 x 3.00 stud, Grade 8, from SUMMIT RACING. It was the first place I looked so there may be others. Note length is 3". OEM specifies 3 at 2.9" and 15 at 2.78" so if you must, grind off the 7/16-20 end that accepts the hex nut. Use an old one to compare with. Torque is different for nuts and bolts. The UNC (coarse) end, 7/16-14 always goes into cast iron. The UNF (fine) end, 7/16-20 accepts the hex nut. Hope this helps you.

REF: 7/16-20 Hex Nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/95036a037


[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​

</td></tr><tr><td>

</td><td>

</td></tr></table>
REF: 7/16 HEAD STUDS:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-675-108/overview/

 

[2ruNgineer]

I do have the FO-4. I also have some copied pages of other key docs.
I'll keep reading up on these. Do some reading on it a while back and then i forget some things by the time i get back to the garage after a few weeks.

Thanks for the helps.

 

[2ruNgineer]

I ordered 10 studs from this site. I was trying to minimize the number of replacement studs, replacing the worst ones. My luck at pulling the old rusted ones out w/o incident has been good so far, but I'm pushing my luck. The double nut on top with PB Blaster has worked so far, but i was getting close to snapping on the last one right in the middle.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 13:12:28 02/26/20) I ordered 10 studs from this site. I was trying to minimize the number of replacement studs, replacing the worst ones. My luck at pulling the old rusted ones out w/o incident has been good so far, but I'm pushing my luck. The double nut on top with PB Blaster has worked so far, but i was getting close to snapping on the last one right in the middle.

Binding is usually the result of dirt/corrosiion getting caught in the threads. When they start binding screw them back in a bit and then work them back and forth to clear the crap out of the threads and try again. Repeat as needed. Don't push your luck by trying to brute force them past the bind or you can easily have a bigger problem on your hands.

TOH