International 2424

[nanate25]

Hello all. I posted a request for advice on upgrading from my Ford 2N to something with live PTO and independent lift a while back and got a bunch of great advice. Now I have found a tractor that was not on the list so I'd like advice on it. Probably some from Tim in New York. I looked at an International 2424 for 3,500 OBO and my first impression wasn't great even though I really want to like it for the specs. The starter just spun the first couple of bumps, once running wouldn't stay running long (sounded choked out or starved), had to adjust the clutch pedal because it wouldn't fully depress to engage PTO. Once the clutch was adjusted it would completely depress and he could engage the PTO no problem. But then when it was running it sounded like it was wining a bit in the clutch housing area. My 2N does that and it sounds like rough bearings or something but it's been 10 years like that and still running "fine". The lift on the tractor was strong and very responsive. That's about as far as we got with it due to it not running well. He just got it running and the fuel filter was visibly full of powdery trash that looked like rust. Maybe a clean tank and another carb cleaning will make it run well? Having the 2N for so long gets rid of my fear of having to do some tuning. Not knowing about the hydraulics and that it has external pump under the distributor, I don't know if it could be a more complicated tractor than say an MF35, 50, 135, etc. I really like the specs of the tractor but don't want to bit off more than I could chew. Also, if I hold off till October or November we might be able spend 8-9K on a smaller tractor with loader. Wow. This is longer read than I expected. If you toughed it out I'll appreciate your opinions.

 

[M-MAN]

Industrial version of the 424. Does it have a loader?

I have a 424 with a loader. Handy little tractor. So far all I've done is simple stuff and I knew about it when I bought it. Not hard to work on but IH manuals leave a lot to be desired.

There's several of us here with 424's.

 

[nanate25]

No loader. Just the tractor. I would like a tractor with a loader someday. That's one of my options. Pass on this one and save up more for a tractor with a loader. This one would still be a great upgrade from the Ford 2N. It looks like most commonly needed parts are available here except the engine kit for the gas burner, which is what the one I'm looking at has. Forgot to mention that part in my original post. I should update that.

 

[M-MAN]

Gas burner here too.

 

[deeretails]

If the tractor will be used for farm duty may not be the best choice. Tread width isn't adjustable.

 

[Tim in New York]

Hello all. I posted a request for advice on upgrading from my Ford 2N to something with live PTO and independent lift a while back and got a bunch of great advice. Now I have found a tractor that was not on the list so I'd like advice on it. Probably some from Tim in New York. I looked at an International 2424 for 3,500 OBO and my first impression wasn't great even though I really want to like it for the specs. The starter just spun the first couple of bumps, once running wouldn't stay running long (sounded choked out or starved), had to adjust the clutch pedal because it wouldn't fully depress to engage PTO. Once the clutch was adjusted it would completely depress and he could engage the PTO no problem. But then when it was running it sounded like it was wining a bit in the clutch housing area. My 2N does that and it sounds like rough bearings or something but it's been 10 years like that and still running "fine". The lift on the tractor was strong and very responsive. That's about as far as we got with it due to it not running well. He just got it running and the fuel filter was visibly full of powdery trash that looked like rust. Maybe a clean tank and another carb cleaning will make it run well? Having the 2N for so long gets rid of my fear of having to do some tuning. Not knowing about the hydraulics and that it has external pump under the distributor, I don't know if it could be a more complicated tractor than say an MF35, 50, 135, etc. I really like the specs of the tractor but don't want to bit off more than I could chew. Also, if I hold off till October or November we might be able spend 8-9K on a smaller tractor with loader. Wow. This is longer read than I expected. If you toughed it out I'll appreciate your opinions.

Yes, I love my 2424. But it was in great running condition when I found it. You did not mention the tires. That is one of the biggest cost items on a used tractor. Funny about the starter missing. Mine did that for almost 30 years before I had the shop around the corner fix that and he put in a new clutch while he was at it. IF it turns out to run fine, it would be a good tractor for you. I think the guy is high if it is in questionable condition. I would not say it is any more complicated that the MF's you mention. They are really, really great small tractors. Also - you did not say if it has power steering. Mine does and its a really nice operating PS. Don't discount that - if its manual steering it will be a lot more difficult to use in tight spaces. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

I would hope my tractor would bring 5K if I ever had to sell it. But reality tells me it probably would not. Comparable auction prices around here would put it somewhere around 3K, even with its nice tires.

Tim

 

[nanate25]

Thanks y'all. For Deeretails question, no, it will not be a farm tractor. Bush hogging, disking, box blade, dragging off fell trees, etc. Tim, it does have power steering and the tires have goo tread but may be original. They have some dry rot between the tread but didn’t look extremely bad. Probably to the point that you can’t really be sure what it will take to blow one. I also forgot to mention that it only has about 590 hours on it. I’m not sure how good or bad that is. Low hours for mechanical items but a bunch of hours for condensation, water accumulation, rust, etc. That might be why the new fuel filter was full of junk again. I didn’t even pull the dipstick on the fluids. I might have to go take another look at it.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks y'all. For Deeretails question, no, it will not be a farm tractor. Bush hogging, disking, box blade, dragging off fell trees, etc. Tim, it does have power steering and the tires have goo tread but may be original. They have some dry rot between the tread but didn’t look extremely bad. Probably to the point that you can’t really be sure what it will take to blow one. I also forgot to mention that it only has about 590 hours on it. I’m not sure how good or bad that is. Low hours for mechanical items but a bunch of hours for condensation, water accumulation, rust, etc. That might be why the new fuel filter was full of junk again. I didn’t even pull the dipstick on the fluids. I might have to go take another look at it.

590 hours on a 57 to 60 year old tractor? Hour meters break and can be changed. Look at the pedals. If the "traction" bars or cross hatch is there it should still be sharp and new looking. If worn down so the top is worn off it has more than 590 hours. JMHO

 

[nanate25]

Well, yesterday I took delivery of the 2424 (and bush hog). Saturday my wife called while I was down the hill working on the old 2N to tell me that they just dropped the price to $2,500. I asked her if she agreed with me calling him and telling him I wanted and she said yes. He delivered it after work yesterday. I like it! Right now it will run for short bit then die like it ran out of gas. Let it sit a minute and it'll crank right back up for a sec. I'm sure the float is sticking. He had to take the tank off and clean it out and I think it is still getting some rust out. I think some more cleaning on the tank and carb and new filter will get it running normal.

 

[JimB2]

Nice looking 2424, Dad had three of the agricultural models all Diesels, B414D, 434 and 384.
They are a very simple tractor and very serviceable and take a beating and keep on ticking.
The only complicated thing is understanding how to use the Draft Control lever on the 3PT hitch and if there is a remote hydraulic outlet on the rear of the tractor.

 

[nanate25]

I'm hoping not to beat it! I need to find an parking brake handle and grease everything. Clutch pedal is stiff and I have to pull it up with my foot to engage it. Brakes need to be freed up. When you press them they don't spring back. I expected these kind of things after it setting up.
I'll have to figure out what the 2 knobs do under the front of the seat that say Slow-Fast and Open-Shut are for.

 

[INCase]

Well, yesterday I took delivery of the 2424 (and bush hog). Saturday my wife called while I was down the hill working on the old 2N to tell me that they just dropped the price to $2,500. I asked her if she agreed with me calling him and telling him I wanted and she said yes. He delivered it after work yesterday. I like it! Right now it will run for short bit then die like it ran out of gas. Let it sit a minute and it'll crank right back up for a sec. I'm sure the float is sticking. He had to take the tank off and clean it out and I think it is still getting some rust out. I think some more cleaning on the tank and carb and new filter will get it running normal.
View attachment 67416

ours did a similar thing would start fine and run fine but not for long and would starve for gas. FIL and wife's uncle chased several things, rebuilt carb, new fuel pump
turns out ours had 50 years of crud blocking/restricting the outlet on the bottom of the tank that the sediment bowl attaches to. cleaned that out and no issues since (still runs rich but haven't tinkered with that).

 

[JimB2]

Slow-Fast, in Slow mode it reduces the speed of the 3PT lift by about one half.
The Open-Shut, should always be in the Open position, the Shut position if your tractor has a remote hydraulic outlet option.
Re clutch there should be a pull up spring attached to top of clutch pedal, I see the spring in your photo, there are also grease zerks on both ends of the clutch shaft and there is an inspection plate that can be remove on the bottom of the torque tube just behind the flywheel to inspect the pressure plate and clutch throughout bearing. The older models had a grease zerk on the throughout bearing carrier.
See clutch adjustment below.

Re Brakes, see link below but I believe on the 2424 the Park Brake Lock maybe on the right side of the transmission close to the brake pedals.

Link: https://www.anglo-agriparts.com/International-harvester-brakes

 

[nanate25]

I believe that will be very helpful. Like any new toy I get it will probably be next weekend before I get to go play with it.

 

[Tim in New York]

I've had my 2424 for almost 40 years and will never part with it. They are an extremely rugged tractor due to the industrial design - heavy duty front end to support a loader and wide stance on the back. These were IH base for backhoes back in the 60's. X2 on crud in the outlet. I had similar problems long ago and turned out there was a chunk of wood - maybe golden rod stem about 2' long in the tank - been there so long it was waterlogged and would occasionally end up blocking the outlet.

Mine was painted red over the yellow - I just re-did it with brushes last summer. You can get an owners manual - I think I got mine from the local Case/Ih dealer. And parts manuals are out there also - I got mine on E-bay for next to nothing.

The brake lock on on the right side of the tractor, right by the brake pedals. Give me a shout over on the IH forum if you have any questions or need part #'s.

Tim

 

[nanate25]

Hello again. I had a chance to spend time with the tractor yesterday and it was obvious that the float was sticking. Took the carb apart got it all cleaned and runs much better, until the line clogged up. There’s no room for a sediment bowl which has a screen that sticks up into the tank. Is there any kind of screen that screws into the tank and just has the threaded female side on the bottom to screw in the fuel line adapter?

And JimB2 posted above that “ there is an inspection plate that can be remove on the bottom of the torque tube just behind the flywheel to inspect the pressure plate and clutch throughout bearing. The older models had a grease zerk on the throughout bearing carrier.” I don’t know what the torque tube is.

 

[JimB2]

” I don’t know what the torque tube is.

The torque tube is the part between the flywheel on the engine and the transmission.

 

[used red MN]

I believe most IH fuel tanks in that tractor size range have a 3/8”NPT threads on the outlet. So here you go. 3/8” pipe strainer Make sure you have plenty of wheel weights so the tractor will stay on the ground!

 

[super99]

Check parts on this site, strainers that go in the tank and one that screws into the carb inlet

 

[Tim in New York]

Hello again. I had a chance to spend time with the tractor yesterday and it was obvious that the float was sticking. Took the carb apart got it all cleaned and runs much better, until the line clogged up. There’s no room for a sediment bowl which has a screen that sticks up into the tank. Is there any kind of screen that screws into the tank and just has the threaded female side on the bottom to screw in the fuel line adapter?

And JimB2 posted above that “ there is an inspection plate that can be remove on the bottom of the torque tube just behind the flywheel to inspect the pressure plate and clutch throughout bearing. The older models had a grease zerk on the throughout bearing carrier.” I don’t know what the torque tube is.

My 2424 has a sediment bowl, but not at the bottom of the tank. Its located close to the electric fuel pump.