Looking for another idea.

Hello everyone!
I was on here a couple of weeks ago looking for help with my 1976 3600 Ford tractor. I received allot of good ideas to check on what might be causing the problem with it overheating. I have replaced the radiator, the radiator hoses, the water pump, the thermostat, the thermostat gauge, the oil pressure gauge, oil change, filters. I have taken the cooling manifold off and checked for obstructions and even took the thermostat out to see if anything would change. With the thermostat out it lasted for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes. The oil is clear and clean. There are no bubbles in the radiator when I check it with the lid off while running. The tractor does not steam when it overheats it smokes on the left side of the block. The oil pressure seems a little high while idling, the pressure is 70. I would love to keep throwing money at it but I can't figure out what else I can change. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction before I turn this thing into a boat anchor. I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks, from an old guy in Kansas.
 
Hello everyone!
I was on here a couple of weeks ago looking for help with my 1976 3600 Ford tractor. I received allot of good ideas to check on what might be causing the problem with it overheating. I have replaced the radiator, the radiator hoses, the water pump, the thermostat, the thermostat gauge, the oil pressure gauge, oil change, filters. I have taken the cooling manifold off and checked for obstructions and even took the thermostat out to see if anything would change. With the thermostat out it lasted for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes. The oil is clear and clean. There are no bubbles in the radiator when I check it with the lid off while running. The tractor does not steam when it overheats it smokes on the left side of the block. The oil pressure seems a little high while idling, the pressure is 70. I would love to keep throwing money at it but I can't figure out what else I can change. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction before I turn this thing into a boat anchor. I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks, from an old guy in Kansas
Hello everyone!
I was on here a couple of weeks ago looking for help with my 1976 3600 Ford tractor. I received allot of good ideas to check on what might be causing the problem with it overheating. I have replaced the radiator, the radiator hoses, the water pump, the thermostat, the thermostat gauge, the oil pressure gauge, oil change, filters. I have taken the cooling manifold off and checked for obstructions and even took the thermostat out to see if anything would change. With the thermostat out it lasted for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes. The oil is clear and clean. There are no bubbles in the radiator when I check it with the lid off while running. The tractor does not steam when it overheats it smokes on the left side of the block. The oil pressure seems a little high while idling, the pressure is 70. I would love to keep throwing money at it but I can't figure out what else I can change. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction before I turn this thing into a boat anchor. I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks, from an old guy in Kansas.
Haven’t been following this one. What is your temps using a heat gun ? Radiator, upper and lower. The block temp, head temp ? Maybe a good block flush would be next.
 
Hello everyone!
I was on here a couple of weeks ago looking for help with my 1976 3600 Ford tractor. I received allot of good ideas to check on what might be causing the problem with it overheating. I have replaced the radiator, the radiator hoses, the water pump, the thermostat, the thermostat gauge, the oil pressure gauge, oil change, filters. I have taken the cooling manifold off and checked for obstructions and even took the thermostat out to see if anything would change. With the thermostat out it lasted for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes. The oil is clear and clean. There are no bubbles in the radiator when I check it with the lid off while running. The tractor does not steam when it overheats it smokes on the left side of the block. The oil pressure seems a little high while idling, the pressure is 70. I would love to keep throwing money at it but I can't figure out what else I can change. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction before I turn this thing into a boat anchor. I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks, from an old guy in Kansas.
I agree with 300jk. I would do my best to flush the block out. I've pulled sleeves out of blocks that were full of crud. I'm sure others have seen that. RB
 
Should have went back to your old post and just added on to it. Here is a link. Previous post
I didn’t think the hoses would be your solution. Did you get a temp gun to check the engine temp? As I said in the other post if the coolant isn’t boiling the engine is not that hot. Did you paint on the engine? If so areas around the exhaust ports on the head may burn paint or oil. Tell us what a temp gun says, without that info we are chasing ghosts in my opinion. With the thermostat out what did your dash temp gauge say? It should not have went up at all. If it did the cooling jackets in your engine must be full of crud or as I suggested in your other post some oddball casting flash has came loose inside and is blocking a passage.
 
I use the kitchen thermometer to verify the temperature of my radiator , I don’t have a temp guage.
Is the pulley on pump correct size?
I the belt thight ,not slipping on pulley to water the pump.
Do a leak down test to verify what’s wrong .
 
Hello everyone!
I was on here a couple of weeks ago looking for help with my 1976 3600 Ford tractor. I received allot of good ideas to check on what might be causing the problem with it overheating. I have replaced the radiator, the radiator hoses, the water pump, the thermostat, the thermostat gauge, the oil pressure gauge, oil change, filters. I have taken the cooling manifold off and checked for obstructions and even took the thermostat out to see if anything would change. With the thermostat out it lasted for 10 minutes instead of 5 minutes. The oil is clear and clean. There are no bubbles in the radiator when I check it with the lid off while running. The tractor does not steam when it overheats it smokes on the left side of the block. The oil pressure seems a little high while idling, the pressure is 70. I would love to keep throwing money at it but I can't figure out what else I can change. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction before I turn this thing into a boat anchor. I'm willing to try anything.
Thanks, from an old guy in Kansas.
As has been said repeatedly-- Temp gun readings are needed! Instrument panel gauges can be off, and a temp gun can give readings to compare to. With electric gauges if the gauge and sender ohm ranges don't match the gauge will not read correctly, sometimes a problem when installing an aftermarket gauge to the old sender or a new sender to an old gauge. Please provide those results as asked.

What are you using for coolant? Mix ratio?

How full do you fill the radiator? Cold it should at least an inch down.

If you had the fan off, did it get installed backwards? The cup of the blades needs to be the right way to properly move air through the radiator.

Timing needs to be checked with a timing light, including checking advance operation. Please check and provide results of what you find, as asked.

Have you made any carburetor adjustments?
 
Terminology is vital in giving instruction/help. Instruction in spanish doesn't help someone who speaks only english. Use of an infrared thermometer to take temperature readings at various points can enable you to isolate the problem.
 
If you have changed all of those things and it still over heats it has to be obstruction IN the cooling passages someplace. I recently had a freeze plug start leaking. When I was changing that one, I decided I may as well change all the others. When I took them out, I was surprised at how much crud was in the water jackets.

You might consider popping a freeze plug out to take a look inside the water jacket. I have some 2 1/16 brass plugs left from changing mine, I had to buy a whole box only used 4. You may be able to get in there with a pressure washer and some compressed air to blor out some crud.

As mentioned some temperature readings at various points would be helpful.

Something like this would help.
Infrared Laser Thermometer.png
 
I don't know if it's possible on your Ford but I have heard of the head gasket being installed upside down and flipped with a key coolant passage blocked. I wouldn't have thought it have worked ok at first, though. No thermostat might be the tip off.
 
Haven’t been following this one. What is your temps using a heat gun ? Radiator, upper and lower. The block temp, head temp ? Maybe a good block flush would be next.
Waiting for a new gasket before I can run and check with a heat gun. I did flush the cooling system with a flushing agent, don't think it did much. didn't see much when I drained it.
 
I don't know if it's possible on your Ford but I have heard of the head gasket being installed upside down and flipped with a key coolant passage blocked. I wouldn't have thought it have worked ok at first, though. No thermostat might be the tip off.
Yea, it ran fine the first few times after I got it so don't think gasket is installed wrong. After using it a few times I started going through it and doing maintenance that was long past due. Changed all the oils, the oil filters, air filter, plugs and points. It didn't have any gauges when I got so I installed oil pressure and temp. gauge.
 
Did the tractor ever run correctly, what was changed? I have pulled the casting plugs in small block Chevrolets and found about everything. Engines with a lot of miles with casting sand and wires, not knowing the engines history I always wondered if they ran hot in original service. Get, borrow a heat gun, is it really hot?
 
If you have changed all of those things and it still over heats it has to be obstruction IN the cooling passages someplace. I recently had a freeze plug start leaking. When I was changing that one, I decided I may as well change all the others. When I took them out, I was surprised at how much crud was in the water jackets.

You might consider popping a freeze plug out to take a look inside the water jacket. I have some 2 1/16 brass plugs left from changing mine, I had to buy a whole box only used 4. You may be able to get in there with a pressure washer and some compressed air to blor out some crud.

As mentioned some temperature readings at various points would be helpful.

Something like this would help.
View attachment 67497
I have the manifold off that the antifreeze runs through and tried scoping it and flushing it with water. Did not see any blockage but I will look again. Waiting on gasket to put it back together.
 
Did the tractor ever run correctly, what was changed? I have pulled the casting plugs in small block Chevrolets and found about everything. Engines with a lot of miles with casting sand and wires, not knowing the engines history I always wondered if they ran hot in original service. Get, borrow a heat gun, is it really hot?
It did run pretty good when I got it. Graded my half mile drive a few times and cut a six-acre pasture. The engine did not smoke and ran smooth. Got into it this past winter doing maintenance that was long past due. Changed all the oils, all filters, points plugs, condenser, greased all the zerts and installed oil pressure gauge and temp. gauge. I was not comfortable driving it not knowing temp and oil pressure. I have a heat gun I use on beehive house extractions I could use but what should the temperature be on upper and lower hose and the block.
 
How many blades on the cooling fan? And can you put on a fan with more blades or greater pitch to create better airflow? Also did this tractor originally come with a shroud around the fan, and if so is it in place. Just some thoughts
It did come with a shroud and was replaced when I changed the water pump. I'm not near it right now but I'm thinking it has four maybe five blades. It seems to have pretty good air flow.
 
Terminology is vital in giving instruction/help. Instruction in spanish doesn't help someone who speaks only english. Use of an infrared thermometer to take temperature readings at various points can enable you to isolate the problem.
I can check these temperatures but until I know what they should be. What kind of readings should I be seeing?
 
You did not put the fan back on backward when you replaced the water pump? It would still move air, but not as good as if it I on correctly.
 
I can check these temperatures but until I know what they should be. What kind of readings should I be seeing?
Just check the temps and report back. Best to start with no thought of what you want to see. (And you have the range a temp gauge shows to see if the gauge and thermometer match to give you an idea.)

If you aren't sure on the fan, post a picture.
 

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