Looking for another idea.

[ozawkiegold]

As has been said repeatedly-- Temp gun readings are needed! Instrument panel gauges can be off, and a temp gun can give readings to compare to. With electric gauges if the gauge and sender ohm ranges don't match the gauge will not read correctly, sometimes a problem when installing an aftermarket gauge to the old sender or a new sender to an old gauge. Please provide those results as asked.

What are you using for coolant? Mix ratio?

How full do you fill the radiator? Cold it should at least an inch down.

If you had the fan off, did it get installed backwards? The cup of the blades needs to be the right way to properly move air through the radiator.

Timing needs to be checked with a timing light, including checking advance operation. Please check and provide results of what you find, as asked.

Have you made any carburetor adjustments?

Coolant is new at a 50/50 ratio, fluid is clean and an inch down when checked cold. The fan was off when changing water pump and when tractor is running it feels like a large amount of air is being pulled through the radiator. I have made no carburetor adjustments because when it does run it runs well. I know gauges can be off but when the gauge goes into the red the engine starts smoking from the left side. Allot of people are telling me to temperature but what should they be. Should the block temperature be close to my gauge?

 

[ozawkiegold]

Just check the temps and report back. Best to start with no thought of what you want to see. (And you have the range a temp gauge shows to see if the gauge and thermometer match to give you an idea.)

If you aren't sure on the fan, post a picture.

I will check temps when I get things back together, just looking for things to check while I have the cooling manifold off. Don't know if that's the correct term for it but waiting for a new gasket for it.

 

[ozawkiegold]

You did not put the fan back on backward when you replaced the water pump? It would still move air, but not as good as if it I on correctly.

The fan didn't seem to have ever been taken off but from the bolt rust it was not hard to tell it was going back on the correct way and the picture I took before taking things apart looks the same.

 

[ozawkiegold]

I use the kitchen thermometer to verify the temperature of my radiator , I don’t have a temp guage.
Is the pulley on pump correct size?
I the belt thight ,not slipping on pulley to water the pump.
Do a leak down test to verify what’s wrong .

The pulley on the pump is the one that came with it, not sure what the correct size is. The belt is tight but I'm going to install a new belt.

 

[ozawkiegold]

Should have went back to your old post and just added on to it. Here is a link. Previous post
I didn’t think the hoses would be your solution. Did you get a temp gun to check the engine temp? As I said in the other post if the coolant isn’t boiling the engine is not that hot. Did you paint on the engine? If so areas around the exhaust ports on the head may burn paint or oil. Tell us what a temp gun says, without that info we are chasing ghosts in my opinion. With the thermostat out what did your dash temp gauge say? It should not have went up at all. If it did the cooling jackets in your engine must be full of crud or as I suggested in your other post some oddball casting flash has came loose inside and is blocking a passage.

Should have went back to my old post! You say that like I know what I'm doing, LOL. Just an old, retired guy that doesn't post anything until now. The coolant isn't boiling and the former owner did paint the tractor. If the engine isn't that hot why does the left side of the engine smoke when the gauge goes above 200. It never smoked when running it when I first got it. With the thermostat out the gauge read 150 for a few minutes and then started climbing and after 10 or 15 minutes temperature climbed to over 200. The engine ran smooth until the temperature got hot and the engine started sounding different and that's when I shut it down. I worked on million dollar pieces of equipment in my previous life so I do have some trouble shooting skills. About 42 years worth! I'm thinking you are right that something broke loose and is blocking a passage. Thats the only thing that make sense to me. Now I just have to find it.

 

[ozawkiegold]

Head gasket?????

Not showing any signs of that but at this point who knows.

 

[Ozlander]

It did run pretty good when I got it. Graded my half mile drive a few times and cut a six-acre pasture. The engine did not smoke and ran smooth. Got into it this past winter doing maintenance that was long past due. Changed all the oils, all filters, points plugs, condenser, greased all the zerts and installed oil pressure gauge and temp. gauge. I was not comfortable driving it not knowing temp and oil pressure. I have a heat gun I use on beehive house extractions I could use but what should the temperature be on upper and lower hose and the block.

The reading at the temp sensor should be close to what the gauge reads.
The upper hose will be about the same as the sensor reading, maybe higher.
The lower hose should be maybe 30* lower.
Now somebody will say I'm full of it, But it's a beginning.

 

[used red MN]

Well since water boils at 212F look for temps higher than that. Actually not sure what pressure the cooling system is on that tractor but coolant under pressure can go over 212F and not boil. Unhook your temp gague and use your tractor like before you put the gauge on it. If the radiator cap doesn’t turn into a steam geyser you were worried over nothing. What is smoking? You have a smart phone? Navigate to your post on YT on it. Get in a reply to this thread. Get the engine to the point it is smoking. Click “Attach files” at the bottom left. Choose take a photo, then click add. Then we will all be able to see what you think you are seeing. I believe you, I am from Kansas, grew up there. But I like Missouri’s motto. “Show me”!! You sure it’s not the valve cover gasket leaking a little oil that is getting on the exhaust? BTW I am 61.
Editing to add: I think your temp gauge and sender are not matched. This is causing the gauge to read high. None of this can be totally confirmed until you get the Infrared thermometer and verify the temperature. To me it is already partially confirmed by the coolant not boiling. You may have the beginning stages of compression leaking externally from the head gasket. That is a rare failure but can happen.

 

[ozawkiegold]

The reading at the temp sensor should be close to what the gauge reads.
The upper hose will be about the same as the sensor reading, maybe higher.
The lower hose should be maybe 30* lower.
Now somebody will say I'm full of it, But it's a beginning.

Thanks that gives me a starting point.

 

[jhwis]

Is the fan belt loose by chance and or is the pully worn so the belt rides too deep?

 

[ozawkiegold]

Well since water boils at 212F look for temps higher than that. Actually not sure what pressure the cooling system is on that tractor but coolant under pressure can go over 212F and not boil. Unhook your temp gague and use your tractor like before you put the gauge on it. If the radiator cap doesn’t turn into a steam geyser you were worried over nothing. What is smoking? You have a smart phone? Navigate to your post on YT on it. Get in a reply to this thread. Get the engine to the point it is smoking. Click “Attach files” at the bottom left. Choose take a photo, then click add. Then we will all be able to see what you think you are seeing. I believe you, I am from Kansas, grew up there. But I like Missouri’s motto. “Show me”!! You sure it’s not the valve cover gasket leaking a little oil that is getting on the exhaust? BTW I am 61.

It will take me awhile to get to this. I'm going to do a power flush of the cooling system to see if I can blow anything out of it. I will try what you suggest after I get everything back together. Since it ran fine before without smoking and overheating, I'm thinking the cooling system must be partially blocked.

 

[ozawkiegold]

Is the fan belt loose by chance and or is the pully worn so the belt rides too deep?

The fan belt is not loose pulley turned smoothly when I checked it when I was changing the water pump and looked fine.

 

[Russ from MN]

Maybe someone else mentioned it, but I didn't see where you confirmed it's timed correctly. Being out of time could cause an engine to run hot, if you changed the points that can change timing.

 

[ozawkiegold]

Maybe someone else mentioned it, but I didn't see where you confirmed it's timed correctly. Being out of time could cause an engine to run hot, if you changed the points that can change timing.

Will be looking into that also after doing a full clean of the cooling section.

 

[leroy in ne]

2 unlikely possible things. Can you look in the radiator fill when running for good circulation? If so it should return from top hose and flow down thru radiator, exception is cross flow but still return from top hose. I have had an impeller loose on the shaft (1964 Chrysler, known problem years ago). Another I've read about, with change over to serpentine belts one auto builder routed belting so pump rotated opposite direction but new pump would bolt to old engine, result impeller wrong and heating problem. With design changes and after market parts made in land of almost right anything is possible but improbable.

 

[J.Wondergem]

 

[J.Wondergem]

2 unlikely possible things. Can you look in the radiator fill when running for good circulation? If so it should return from top hose and flow down thru radiator, exception is cross flow but still return from top hose. I have had an impeller loose on the shaft (1964 Chrysler, known problem years ago). Another I've read about, with change over to serpentine belts one auto builder routed belting so pump rotated opposite direction but new pump would bolt to old engine, result impeller wrong and heating problem. With design changes and after market parts made in land of almost right anything is possible but improbable.

He said he already changed the water pump.

 

[ozawkiegold]

2 unlikely possible things. Can you look in the radiator fill when running for good circulation? If so it should return from top hose and flow down thru radiator, exception is cross flow but still return from top hose. I have had an impeller loose on the shaft (1964 Chrysler, known problem years ago). Another I've read about, with change over to serpentine belts one auto builder routed belting so pump rotated opposite direction but new pump would bolt to old engine, result impeller wrong and heating problem. With design changes and after market parts made in land of almost right anything is possible but improbable.

A couple of more things to look at when I get it back together. Thanks!

 

[Fixingfarmer]

If the heads off now might be a good time to check for a crack I’ve seen it happen on trucks where there’s a crack and it overheats but fluid level doesn’t drop much to be able to tell

 

[bc]

My ford 1500 was running hot after I had bought it. Turned out it had a cracked head in one chamber going into a valve seat. I couldn't figure out why until I pulled the head. After dropping it off at a cylinder head welding shop a couple years ago I just got a call last week that it was done. In retrospect the prior owner told me he always had to give it a shot of ether to get it started. It was probably cracked from the ether before he sold it to me. He saw me coming.