Loston8n

[lisamedic]

Need help, have a '48 ford 8n. I need to replace my battery & didn't take a picture before i removed the battery, i took new battery and i placed it with pos+ to right, neg- to left. (If im sitting in seat face forward) i hooked cable bolted to chassis on the right 1st. The left cable i tried to connect but sparked a lot and i got it off. Im thinking i should of started with left cable going on 1st (neg). But i have confused myself with the backward way of hooking up the 8n batt...i know it's simple but i need help. (Sitting in seat,1st pic is my right, bolted to chassis and im hooking to battery pos+ terminal)??

 

[super99]

If it has a generator, it should be positive ground. If it has been changed over to a alternator, it will be negative ground. Always hook the ground up last.

 

[old]

Need help, have a '48 ford 8n. I need to replace my battery & didn't take a picture before i removed the battery, i took new battery and i placed it with pos+ to right, neg- to left. (If im sitting in seat face forward) i hooked cable bolted to chassis on the right 1st. The left cable i tried to connect but sparked a lot and i got it off. Im thinking i should of started with left cable going on 1st (neg). But i have confused myself with the backward way of hooking up the 8n batt...i know it's simple but i need help. (Sitting in seat,1st pic is my right, bolted to chassis and im hooking to battery pos+ terminal)??

On a battery the negative post of the battery is smaller then the positive so unless you widen the cable end when you remove it from the battery you should have trouble hooking it up differently then is had been

 

[stevieb49829]

If it has a generator, it should be positive ground. If it has been changed over to a alternator, it will be negative ground. Always hook the ground up last.

Also, if it has an alternator, and you hooked it up positive ground, and it sparked like that, you may need a new alternator. Or at least a new regulator inside the alternator. Show us a pic of the generator/alternator and we'll be able to help better. steve

 

[old]

Also, if it has an alternator, and you hooked it up positive ground, and it sparked like that, you may need a new alternator. Or at least a new regulator inside the alternator. Show us a pic of the generator/alternator and we'll be able to help better. steve

Yes if it has an alternator the moment it is hooked up back wards the person has let the smoke out and it takes less then 10 seconds to do so

 

[used red MN]

Hello Lisa, welcome to YT! Let me make this clear if you are you are not aware of mechanic talk like positive or negative ground or alternator or generator. The charging unit for the battery is driven by the fan belt it will be on the left side. The original unit is a generator, which about the size of a large tomato juice can, probably painted black or the color of the engine. If your tractor has been converted to 12 volts it very likely has an alternator installed on it which is usually aluminum or gray color and about the diameter of a 3 pound coffee can but not as long. Of course web searching these items will help you identify them. Your one photo shows a battery cable going directly to a bolt on the engine with no other wires in the area. That is your chassis ground cable. If you have a generator the grounding battery cable will go to the positive (+) battery post. If you have an alternator your grounding battery cable will go to the negative battery (-) battery post. Always connect the chassis ground cable to the battery last. This prevents short outs if the wrench you’re using hits a metal part of the tractor. If you have an alternator and find you connected it backwards as others have said your alternator has likely been damaged.

 

[Bob NY]

Hello Lisa, welcome to YT! Let me make this clear if you are you are not aware of mechanic talk like positive or negative ground or alternator or generator. The charging unit for the battery is driven by the fan belt it will be on the left side. The original unit is a generator, which about the size of a large tomato juice can, probably painted black or the color of the engine. If your tractor has been converted to 12 volts it very likely has an alternator installed on it which is usually aluminum or gray color and about the diameter of a 3 pound coffee can but not as long. Of course web searching these items will help you identify them. Your one photo shows a battery cable going directly to a bolt on the engine with no other wires in the area. That is your chassis ground cable. If you have a generator the grounding battery cable will go to the positive (+) battery post. If you have an alternator your grounding battery cable will go to the negative battery (-) battery post. Always connect the chassis ground cable to the battery last. This prevents short outs if the wrench you’re using hits a metal part of the tractor. If you have an alternator and find you connected it backwards as others have said your alternator has likely been damaged.

The generator is on the right side of the engines with the front mount distributor and the left side with the side mount distributor. She said it is a 1048, so that should be a front mount.

 

[used red MN]

The generator is on the right side of the engines with the front mount distributor and the left side with the side mount distributor. She said it is a 1048, so that should be a front mount.

Got it, Thanks! Apparently you can’t trust a picture, Henry had all kinds of tricks on them little boogers.

 

[lisamedic]

Looks like its been converted.

 

[lisamedic]

It had 12v battery

 

[Janicholson]

Looks like its been converted.

An alternator is a good thing to have where it is. it is not likely that the person converting the tractor went to the effort to purchase a 6 volt alternator or a 12v positive ground either (they exist for more money). So with the sparking that happened, there are two possible situations. The sparks scared you enough that you didn't actually attach the cable to the battery and near instantly pulled it away, or the alternator is in need of replacement. An alternator has one way electrical components called diodes in it that convert alternating current into direct current to charge the battery. because they allow flow one way like a check valve if hooked up to a battery the wrong way the current rushes through them from the battery's massive capability and they burn out. Fixable but easier and likely cheaper to buy a new/rebuilt alternator. If you hook the battery up negative ground, and it works great. if not, it can be taken to a major auto parts store and they will test it. Let us help what ever you find. I f the alternator is not working the one you need is a three wire alternator with the same part number. There are "one wire alternators (that are different internally but look the same. that type would not be correct. Jim

 

[stevieb49829]

It had 12v battery

To continue with Jim's info above your next step should be to hook the (+) on the battery to the cable that goes to what's called the solenoid, sitting on top of the starter. Then hook the battery up with the cable that goes to the bolt on the engine block on the (-) post on the battery. That will be hooking it up to negative ground. If you don't get any sparks, try starting the tractor. If the tractor starts, and you have a gauge on the dash showing either volts or amps, watch it to see if the needle stays on the (+) side of the gauge for a while. That means the alternator is still working to charge the battery. If the battery loses charge sitting overnight, so it doesn't want to start, the sparks probably burned out a diode or two in the alternator, and it will need to be replaced. If you have to remove the alternator, take the (-) battery cable off of the battery first.

That alternator is a very common Delco Remy 10SI alternator, and is a fairly new version, with the plastic fan. Almost any reputable parts store can sell you a remanufactured one, but it will not be for your tractor make or model. So they won't be able to look in their book at the parts store using your tractor information. It might be from a GM car but it will work just fine. Take your alternator to the parts store, and most of them can check it to see if it is burned out. And then they can match what you have with a new one. Those alternators are so bullet proof that buying a remanufactured one is worth the savings over a new one. steve

 

[Bob NY]

Looks like its been converted.

Looks like its been converted.

That is definitely a mid 1950 thru 1952 engine. Could you post a pic of the lower dashboard?

 

[soaked]

Am I seeing an un connected white wire hanging loose from the hot side of the solenoid?
If so, do not connect your battery, until this wire is removed.

 

[Jim in LA]

Need help, have a '48 ford 8n. I need to replace my battery & didn't take a picture before i removed the battery, i took new battery and i placed it with pos+ to right, neg- to left. (If im sitting in seat face forward) i hooked cable bolted to chassis on the right 1st. The left cable i tried to connect but sparked a lot and i got it off. Im thinking i should of started with left cable going on 1st (neg). But i have confused myself with the backward way of hooking up the 8n batt...i know it's simple but i need help. (Sitting in seat,1st pic is my right, bolted to chassis and im hooking to battery pos+ terminal)??

Looks like its been converted.

Looks like my '51 when I bought it. PO smashed up the original generator mount to hold the alternator and cobbled an upper hanger too. I replaced all that with new and installed a volt meter instead of ammeter. I arced mine good Saturday when battery slid over and gounded to the hood and it killed the engine fortunately no harm done. I flipped the battery around, installed a longer positive cable and anchored the battery correctly. Once I get the engine rebuilt I will install a correct size battery.

 

[used red MN]

To continue with Jim's info above your next step should be to hook the (+) on the battery to the cable that goes to what's called the solenoid, sitting on top of the starter. Then hook the battery up with the cable that goes to the bolt on the engine block on the (-) post on the battery. That will be hooking it up to negative ground. If you don't get any sparks, try starting the tractor. If the tractor starts, and you have a gauge on the dash showing either volts or amps, watch it to see if the needle stays on the (+) side of the gauge for a while. That means the alternator is still working to charge the battery. If the battery loses charge sitting overnight, so it doesn't want to start, the sparks probably burned out a diode or two in the alternator, and it will need to be replaced. If you have to remove the alternator, take the (-) battery cable off of the battery first.

That alternator is a very common Delco Remy 10SI alternator, and is a fairly new version, with the plastic fan. Almost any reputable parts store can sell you a remanufactured one, but it will not be for your tractor make or model. So they won't be able to look in their book at the parts store using your tractor information. It might be from a GM car but it will work just fine. Take your alternator to the parts store, and most of them can check it to see if it is burned out. And then they can match what you have with a new one. Those alternators are so bullet proof that buying a remanufactured one is worth the savings over a new one. steve

If they act like they can’t possibly give you an alternator for it without something to look it up by tell them you have a 1979 Chevy half ton pickup with only wipers and a heater. Depending on the width of the belt on your tractor you may have to take the one off yours and place it on the new one. 15/16” socket on an impact.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Am I seeing an un connected white wire hanging loose from the hot side of the solenoid?
If so, do not connect your battery, until this wire is removed. View attachment 66273

Definitely remove this wire. It's a short circuit waiting to happen and probably why you're getting sparks:

 

[Jim.ME]

If they act like they can’t possibly give you an alternator for it without something to look it up by tell them you have a 1979 Chevy half ton pickup with only wipers and a heater. Depending on the width of the belt on your tractor you may have to take the one off yours and place it on the new one. 15/16” socket on an impact.

Just a note. His alternator looks like it might be a rebuilt mongrel. The plastic fan (for better cooling of the higher amp output of a 12SI) was a 12SI item I believe. I think the rear housing was originally smooth on a 12SI, the 10SI had the ribs around the perimeter like in his picture. I am not sure how his pulley will fit up if he gets a 10 with the metal fan, a spacer ring might be needed behind the fan or between the fand and pulley, I ran into one like that a while back but forget just what the fix was. There is also a rib around the housing that matches the plastic fan on a 12, if I remember right. Either the 10 or 12 will charge ok, just seemed there was an issue related to the fans.

If it was done like some conversions, it may have a narrow belt on it to fit the stock alternator pulley, which leads to slipping in the crank and water pump pulleys. The alternator pulley should be changed to one that will accept the original 5/8" width tractor belt, if it is running a narrow belt.

 

[lisamedic]

It was what held

Am I seeing an un connected white wire hanging loose from the hot side of the solenoid?
If so, do not connect your battery, until this wire is removed. View attachment 66273

It held the battery in. I fixed it

 

[lisamedic]

Thank you !!! I appreciate everyone of you!!! mae is running, putt'n like a true ford i am on my own with this piece of machinery and yall got me thru it. I really didn't think i had enough sense to do this and to be honest i get a little shaky with things that are out of my wheelhouse..i will repost when i get her cleaned up and do some maintenance cant say thank y'all enuf!!