Yanmar YM2010 clutch

[used red MN]

the flywheel should be resurfaced by a machine shop when replacing a pressure plate and the disc. That is to minimize the chance of clutch chatter. In your case, I’d talk to the machine shop to see if the machinist is comfortable doing that. It looks like a fair amount of metal will have to come off to get it perfect and that tractor may not have a surplus of material when new.

In my opinion the first sentence of Gambles reply is what needs to be done! I don’t think there is any concern in this application of removing to much material. As an old engineer with Canadian roots (now retired) who also worked at the refinery I work at once said about a part on a piece of equipment “That thing is as thick as a piece of pie it won’t be a problem” That looks like a fairly hefty flywheel for a 20hp machine.

 

[wore out]

Hey
Sorry for the wait . Here a photo of the broken clutch .View attachment 83156

One more thing . after cleaning the bits off the flywheel from the disc there are little rust holes where the disc went , can i still use it ? here a photo to
View attachment 83155

View attachment 83157
Thanks
Toby

My reply ( #2 in this thread) "failed throwout bearing that has worn the fingers off of the pressure plate" was spot on!

As to the flywheel, it needs to go to an automotive machine shop and be ground.

For that little, low HP tractor it will be just fine with the deeper rust PITS left. The important thing is to get the raised crusty rust ground off.

 

[Ivor]

Hey
can i resurface it with a grinder ?

 

[Jim.ME]

Hey
can i resurface it with a grinder ?

Define what you have for a grinder you are asking about.

 

[used red MN]

Hey
can i resurface it with a grinder ?

That is up to you, I wouldn’t recommend it. Just spend the extra $100 or whatever it may be to get it done right.

 

[Ivor]

Ok . Another problem has come up . There is a crack along the engine block it doesn't go from end to end yet and it's leaking water . Would it be alright if we put stuff to seal hole in to the water ?
Thanks
Toby

 

[used red MN]

Ok . Another problem has come up . There is a crack along the engine block it doesn't go from end to end yet and it's leaking water . Would it be alright if we put stuff to seal hole in to the water ?
Thanks
Toby

Picture please.

 

[Ivor]

 

[used red MN]

Hummmm! Should have made sure the antifreeze was strong enough before last winter. That flywheel looks like it sat a long time. Is this tractor used in fields flooded for irrigation? What is the real story on this tractor? Makes no difference towards this, now you can get your grinder out. Grind into the crack about 2mm deep and 2-3mm wide. Might be tricky around those raised webs may need a Dremel for that. Also grind the block surface flat about 200mm wide over the crack. I assume you will have the coolant drained because you’ll want that hose out of the way. Get yourself some 2 part epoxy, JB Weld is a common product used here in the US. Apply it to the groove you ground in and thick enough to raise it 1-2mm above the block surface right above the crack and feathered out to cover nearly the 200mm you ground flat. Let it fully cure per directions. Fill it up with coolant and check for success. Hopefully there are no internal breaks.

 

[rustred]

hey thanks for advice . which side is best to roll away ? the front or the back ? i was going to roll the front forward but don't want it tipping . How would i wedge the front wheels ?
Thanks
Toby

Front always. Roll the lighter end

 

[rustred]

Hey
Sorry for the wait . Here a photo of the broken clutch .View attachment 83156

One more thing . after cleaning the bits off the flywheel from the disc there are little rust holes where the disc went , can i still use it ? here a photo to
View attachment 83155

View attachment 83157
Thanks
Toby

Ahh haaa !! Just a few days ago we were talking about keeping free play adjusted. Now perfect example of the damage when you don’t keep your clutch properly adjusted.

 

[Ivor]

Hey
Thanks for your instructions i'll do that when it's together . What sort of epoxy should i get ?
I just got the old clutch plate off the rod and going to put the new one on but do i have to force it on or does it just go on easily ?i had to grind off the old one . The spikes on the rod look a bit bit than on the clutch plate.
Thanks
Toby

 

[used red MN]

Assuming you speak French I don’t know how this translates. I am guessing by “rod” you mean the input shaft of the transmission. The spikes must be the “splines” that are external on the input shaft and internal on the clutch center hub. It should slide in easy, if it does not slide it will cause the clutch to not release properly. You need to get use a wire brush maybe one that you can put in a drill and emery cloth (sandpaper for metal) to get it cleaned up. If it won’t slide on show us a photo of what the problem is. You will also need to get a tool to align the clutch in the center before you bolt it down under the pressure plate. The tool will look like the one in the photo.
You should get a repair manual for your tractor that covers the steps needed to do this right.
I would get the JB Weld. JB Welc

 

[Ivor]

Hey
Sorry i keep getting mixed up with the names and parts . So i wire brushed it and sanded in between and on the splines . The input shaft of the transmission comes off (in the photo ) does that mean i don't need a tool to aligne it ?

I managed to get the new one on with a bit of wood and a malet but it won't slide when i push it and i have to hit it to get it to move, i guess that won't work ? Should i grease it and move it up and down to loosen it ?
I've searched but i can't seem to find a repaire manual .
Thank you for the link , i'll start to do it when i've got the clutch is done.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help it's valuable lesons for when i'm a mechanic (only 15)
Toby

 

[used red MN]

Drive the disc back off and look in the hub of the clutch disc. Where it is tight there will be a shinny spot rubbed where the high spots are. Use a file to work those down. It has to slide on there. It has to be to the point where when you put it on the shaft horizontally and turn the shaft vertical it falls off. Send a photo of the splines on the shaft with the disc off. There is no sign of twisting in them is there?

 

[Ivor]

Hey
Ok so i got it moving on the shaft alright and have put it on and put the tractor back together but i forgot to how to adjust it . Do i need to split it again to adjust it ? and how do i adjust it
Thanks
Toby

 

[used red MN]

Again, I have no personal experience with Yanmar tractors. All I can tell you is based off the diagram kencombs posted for a US model that appears similar to yours is that the adjustment is all external. The pressure plate type used in your tractor is a “diaphragm” type due to it having all the little fingers that set against the throwout bearing. Which brings up a point that I hope you replaced that bearing due to how your clutch failed. Diaphragm type pressure plates have no adjustments on them. The adjustment will likel be made by changing the length of the linkage rods by threaded yokes on the ends. I would set it so you have 250mm of free play at the pedal face. Free play translates into the movement of the throwout bearing towards the clutch fingers. With the pedal all the way up the throw out bearing should be away from the fingers 2-3mm. So unless your clutch is operated by a hydraulic system this should get you there. Again, the BEST thing I can tell you is that you should really purchase a repair manual. All this would be in there with the actual specifications for your tractor. Downloadable manuals can usually be purchased at a very reasonable cost.

 

[Jim.ME]

There is a Yanmar Forum further down in the Manufacturer's section. bmaverick has posted about a location that the Yanmar Tractor Owners group has a library of manuals people can download. Below is one of his posts about getting to the manuals. There are some guys very knowledgeable on Yanmar tractors that follow that forum as well.

 

[Ivor]

Hey
Thank you for your replys . The tractor works great i didn't need to adjust the clutch seems to work fine .
Thanks so much for all the help couldn't have done it without your help . Sorry if i messed you around a bit if there a next time i try to be a bit specific. I will look for a manual . Thank you for the website .
Thanks again
Toby

 

[used red MN]

The tractor works great i didn't need to adjust the clutch seems to work fine .

It might “work fine” but it still needs to have free play so the throw out bearing is not constantly riding on the clutch fingers.