Fixingfarmer
Well-known Member
Number 17 on your parts diagram washer a1646r is that still in there if you pulled everything off? That would be where your shim would go and is about the size you are off I guess…shouldn’t have to do that at all imo
MichaelNiemann
New User
Having a shim made this week. We'll see how it turns out.
MichaelNiemann
New User
I don't have a John Deere parts book on this A and my I&T manual doesn't show a shim...
Thanks for the picture Rustred. That new disc looks like it has a lot of stand-off. My splines must be worn pretty badly....
Thanks for the picture Rustred. That new disc looks like it has a lot of stand-off. My splines must be worn pretty badly....
rustred
Well-known Member
having them made ?i asked about the shim and no reply. what kind of shim are you making ?
greenmech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Lakeville MN
No shims in the parts book. They have to be made. Ron MN
rustred
Well-known Member
i still got no reply on these shims your talking about ? are u shimming the spins as i was asking or putting a round shim where i said it wont work ???
www.jdparts.com for a free online parts book.
MichaelNiemann
New User
Sorry I missed your question. My Drive disc had been running loose on the crank splines and was so loose that it would slid further onto the crank shaft. I first made a shim to take up the clearance and hold the disc tight on the shaft. I found out that with the disc in this position, with everything back together, the clutch pulley ran against the tractor frame!
I have since positioned the drive disc even with the end of the crank (I should have given it a little overhang, but didn't). I held the disc in that position while I drilled and tapped three (either 1/8" or 1/4") NPT holes. I installed pipe plugs in each. I'm hoping this will lock the disc to the shaft well enough to work. If not, I'll have to come up with a good crank shaft and undamaged drive disc.
Still putting other stuff back together. I need to free up the shutters, put the fuel tanks and hood on and polarize the generator.
The clutch driver is made of cast iron. The crankshaft is steel. Cast iron is softer than steel. So! your clutch driver splines are worn out. Someone was making an undersize spline clutch driver for the John Deere A and B. If not, cut some steel shims for the splines. That will tighten up the splines and work.
The clutch driver splines are wore out. The driver is made of cast iron. The crank-shaft is steel. Someone was making clutch drivers with a undersize hub? You can cut some steel shims the size of the splines and put in. That will work for a long time. Just make sure to tighten the end bolt with washer Tight!
maqbill
Member
I used a tuna can to shim up a G per the advice of an old parts man. Used it for several years with no problem til I upgraded to a 70. The G was a gas hog with the hiesler head, but it would pull!
MichaelNiemann
New User
Do you have a contact for an undersized hub?
MichaelNiemann
New User
Do you have a contact for the undersized hub?
Mark Poss
Well-known Member
- Location
- Big Rock Illinois
I welded the crankshaft on a G that was not going to be worked hard. Not a bad job just took a little patience and a die grinder.
Try Dengler Tractor for the undersize clutch driver.
Phone: (513) 571-3360
Phone: (513) 571-3360
MichaelNiemann
New User
Thanks!
MichaelNiemann
New User
Do you mean that you welded up the splines on the end of the crank and then re-cut them?
Mark Poss
Well-known Member
- Location
- Big Rock Illinois
Where they were worn yes.
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