Old barn foundation repair

[stevieb49829]

If that span between the wall and the inside beam is as short as it looks, I'd cut out one more joist, box it back in and make your stairwell that much longer. Then set your stringers exactly where you want them, lay a board of suitable width along the floor and scribe your bottom angle. Cut that end off the stringer, lay it back up in place and scribe your top angle where it meets the joist. Cut it off, lay the stringer in place and start laying out level lines in the right places to end up with stair rises that are the same all the way up. Remember to incorporate the thickness of your treads in your layout. Unequal rises pose a very real tripping hazard.

I'd still get a chunk of pipe wrap insulation. It comes split down one side. Or get what's called a kid's pool noodle and split it. Open it up and push it onto that head-banger joist. That way when you run into it you'll only hurt your neck, and not the top of your head. The pool noodles come in vibrant caution colors, too. I have a similar operation in my stairwell. Not a problem for my 5'8" but my over-6 ft son has a couple of bumps already. steve

 

[Janicholson]

Place the stringers farther left so the top step is the joist (where the proposed stringer is leaning. this gives substantially more head room on the way up, and does not compromise anything. A joist hanger or blocking on the "free" stringer attached to the joist would support the second stringer. Jim

 

[bc]

Slowly progressing along. Got the barn sitting fairly level and new studs sistered in. Last thing will be add bottom pieces to the cut off studs, nail it all down, and renail the siding.

Now have to design some hinged doors. Starting on the south side will be a 40 inch wide by 82 inch tall door with 3 10 inch hinges. It will open out with hinges on the right looking at it from the inside with a handle and hasp on the left. Corner posts and hinge posts are square, level, and plumb up and down. Got a header installed above the opening.

Figuring the doors will be flat 2x4s in a rectangle frame with 5 inch horizontal tongue and groove siding. The 2 bys will fit inside the opening and the siding will lap over on 3 sides. Doors will have wire and turn buckles.

Just not sure how much clearance the door frame needs within the opening (maybe a quarter to half inch all the way around) and how to get the siding to lap over on the hinge side (Maybe 1 to 3 inches).

Once the south side door is in then I can design the 5 foot and 3 foot doors with removable center post. It still needs a header put in the 8 foot opening.

 

[showcrop]

Good on ya for keeping the old building up. My most recent project on my 150 year old post and beam barn was to replace three floor beams under the first bay of threshing floor that I drive over with two of my tractors. I was going to remove all of the planks so that I could lower the new beams into place in their pockets, but the nails were so rusty and pulled so hard that I decided to pull the nails only from the beams that were coming out. I slid the beams in under the planks from the outer end.

 

[Steven Allen]

I applaud you for making the repairs blend in so well with the existing fabric.

 

[cleddy]

Hello guys. Have the old barn foundation that has shifted years ago. It was a poured stem wall between 1' to 2' deep that has broke and shifted years ago. Dry rot, wet rot, and termites have taken care of part of stud wall.

Whenever I get the backhoe going my plan is to pour a new stem wall along the outside below frost depth with a footing below to reinforce and rebuild the barn wall and level the barn. Or just take the old one out and put in a new one below.

Right now I want to move some hay in where the sliding door is and then temporarily put up some plywood to seal the opening for the winter. Then later put in some hinged doors when the foundation work is done.

Pics are below. Opening is 7'4" wide. First problem is trying to figure out how to lay a treated sill plate about 12' long and seal it against the irregular surface of the shifted foundation. It is high in the middle and the corners have sunk low.

I appreciate any ideas on a temporary door seal and a permanent repair. Thanks.

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Looks like a good project saving a old building. You will be proud when its done. Just wondering if painting it is in your plans? I saved a old building(mostly new metal) and used my Grandpa's garage front and swinging doors and even kept the old flat roof line not that anyone else would know or care. About the paint i was so used to seeing it in run down condition(had paint when new) that I thought it was more rustic with bare weathered wood. Painted it anyway to preserve the already aged wood. Wondering how you feel about paint and increasing the life for a longer time????.

 

[Janicholson]

Slowly progressing along. Got the barn sitting fairly level and new studs sistered in. Last thing will be add bottom pieces to the cut off studs, nail it all down, and renail the siding.

Now have to design some hinged doors. Starting on the south side will be a 40 inch wide by 82 inch tall door with 3 10 inch hinges. It will open out with hinges on the right looking at it from the inside with a handle and hasp on the left. Corner posts and hinge posts are square, level, and plumb up and down. Got a header installed above the opening.

Figuring the doors will be flat 2x4s in a rectangle frame with 5 inch horizontal tongue and groove siding. The 2 bys will fit inside the opening and the siding will lap over on 3 sides. Doors will have wire and turn buckles.

Just not sure how much clearance the door frame needs within the opening (maybe a quarter to half inch all the way around) and how to get the siding to lap over on the hinge side (Maybe 1 to 3 inches).

Once the south side door is in then I can design the 5 foot and 3 foot doors with removable center post. It still needs a header put in the 8 foot opening.

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Unless you use articulated hinges (like on cabinet doors)the hinge side can't have an overlap. to keep out rain and drafts on that edge, closed cell foam self sticking weatherstrip can be used on the edge of the door. Jim

 

[bc]

Plugging away on the barn project the last couple days. Got both door way headers in and built one door on the south wall for now. Just screwed it in for now and will add the hinges later. Figured out with those 10 inch T hinges that if I recess the hinge side trim board just over 5/8" then I can add that as door overlap. May need to bevel the edge.

Probably won't try to build the other double doors till I get back from Washington. Just plug up half with part of the old door. Then finish out the studs to add some siding. If I finish tomorrow we can leave Thursday. If not then Friday. Nail gun keeps jamming so it will be hammer time.

 

[stevieb49829]

Plugging away on the barn project the last couple days. Got both door way headers in and built one door on the south wall for now. Just screwed it in for now and will add the hinges later. Figured out with those 10 inch T hinges that if I recess the hinge side trim board just over 5/8" then I can add that as door overlap. May need to bevel the edge.

Probably won't try to build the other double doors till I get back from Washington. Just plug up half with part of the old door. Then finish out the studs to add some siding. If I finish tomorrow we can leave Thursday. If not then Friday. Nail gun keeps jamming so it will be hammer time.

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Man, when you first showed pictures of what you were up against, I didn't have much hope for it turning out well. But: You done good!!! steve

 

[bc]

That balloon framing with the loft joists just nailed in made it so I had to do alot of jacking to get it up over 3 inches. You can see the railroad tie support that needed extra blocking to get it level. The barn is 24 foot wide with a double 2by6 support at 8 foot intervals. But both end walls had nothing supporting the loft joists except side nails. Had to go around with the 20 ton jack and 4x4 post to raise everything about an inch at a time and put in temporary braces. Had the jack post kick out on me a few times from not being plumb but didn't get hurt. Was always watching and worried about the old post splitting and shattering on me.

That left corner is where I moved a 6 foot bale into and rolled it in there for the donkey. This spring I can jack up and do that corner along with the sides.

 

[showcrop]

That balloon framing with the loft joists just nailed in made it so I had to do alot of jacking to get it up over 3 inches. You can see the railroad tie support that needed extra blocking to get it level. The barn is 24 foot wide with a double 2by6 support at 8 foot intervals. But both end walls had nothing supporting the loft joists except side nails. Had to go around with the 20 ton jack and 4x4 post to raise everything about an inch at a time and put in temporary braces. Had the jack post kick out on me a few times from not being plumb but didn't get hurt. Was always watching and worried about the old post splitting and shattering on me.

That left corner is where I moved a 6 foot bale into and rolled it in there for the donkey. This spring I can jack up and do that corner along with the sides.

Your jack set-up looks good to me. I put a 4ft. level on my posts before I start any load on them.

 

[paul]

Interesting project. Fun to follow along.

Paul

 

[bc]

Interesting project. Fun to follow along.

Paul

Yeah. Not one I wanted to start now but my wife worries about the donkey getting cold. Forgetting we've had her for 19 years and she has a heavy coat and made it through plenty of worse winters. She and the other donkey and horses we had knew when to come in out of the wind. They also knew how to go out into a thunderstorm which made the wife mad.

Drove by today and looked from a few hundred yards away and most of the barn actually looked level except for that sagging corner. Used to be the whole thing leaned and sloped on down to the pasture.

Got about 700 bux in it so far. Because of prior termite damage we went with treated 2 bys.