JD 60 Power Steering

[sheibult]

I have JD 60 (Serial #6062360) with non working power steering. The pedestal was leaking, so I pulled it apart, put in new O-rings, and filled the system w/ JD power steering fluid. My hope was the power steering was not working due to very little fluid....unfortunately not, there is ZERO assist from the pump. My multi part question(s) is:

1. Any ideas to pursue before jumping to a failed pump
2. Does anybody have a spare screw that is removed to test the pressure. This one was broken off....I was a able to get it out, but am curious if it is seating too deep? Does it bottom out or sit on the bolt head?

Thank you in advance.....any shared knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Scott

 

[Pete in MD]

I have JD 60 (Serial #6062360) with non working power steering. The pedestal was leaking, so I pulled it apart, put in new O-rings, and filled the system w/ JD power steering fluid. My hope was the power steering was not working due to very little fluid....unfortunately not, there is ZERO assist from the pump. My multi part question(s) is:

1. Any ideas to pursue before jumping to a failed pump
2. Does anybody have a spare screw that is removed to test the pressure. This one was broken off....I was a able to get it out, but am curious if it is seating too deep? Does it bottom out or sit on the bolt head?

Thank you in advance.....any shared knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Scott

Scott,

I suggest you get a copy of SM2050 ,(Jan 1962) the Power Steering manual for Waterloo 2 Cylinder Tractors.

 

[wore out]

I have JD 60 (Serial #6062360) with non working power steering. The pedestal was leaking, so I pulled it apart, put in new O-rings, and filled the system w/ JD power steering fluid. My hope was the power steering was not working due to very little fluid....unfortunately not, there is ZERO assist from the pump. My multi part question(s) is:

1. Any ideas to pursue before jumping to a failed pump
2. Does anybody have a spare screw that is removed to test the pressure. This one was broken off....I was a able to get it out, but am curious if it is seating too deep? Does it bottom out or sit on the bolt head?

Thank you in advance.....any shared knowledge is greatly appreciated.
Scott

IF the pump was run "dry" for a long time at some point due to the leak it MAY be damaged or there may be other issues with it (such as a sheared key).

The manual the other poster suggested will explain how to flow test it before removing it and tearing it down.

F2372R is a "special capscrew, steering flow control valve stop", note removed screw sitting on the control valve in the photo below.

There is a procedure in the manual (Page 10-15-5) that explains how to install the special stop screw after the gauge adapter is removed after pressure adjustment is made. I'm GUESSING someone who worked on it in the past was unaware of that procedure and broke the screw off after bottoming it out on the relief valve.

I have a spare valve on the shelf, IF it is the newer style (above Serial # 6054,500that has the screw you are missing I will pull the screw and take a photo.

Gotta look and see what I have.

(After the screw was broken off jammed against the relief valve excessive pressure MAY have sheared a key or done other damage to the pump.)

 

[dick1234]

I did my 70 power steering and it seems to me I had to bleed the system before checking pressure. Just a thought. Good Luck

 

[matthies]

If I remember right, your special screw is just a regular bolt, just need a copper washer to seal it.

 

[sheibult]

IF the pump was run "dry" for a long time at some point due to the leak it MAY be damaged or there may be other issues with it (such as a sheared key).

The manual the other poster suggested will explain how to flow test it before removing it and tearing it down.

F2372R is a "special capscrew, steering flow control valve stop", note removed screw sitting on the control valve in the photo below.

There is a procedure in the manual (Page 10-15-5) that explains how to install the special stop screw after the gauge adapter is removed after pressure adjustment is made. I'm GUESSING someone who worked on it in the past was unaware of that procedure and broke the screw off after bottoming it out on the relief valve.

I have a spare valve on the shelf, IF it is the newer style (above Serial # 6054,500that has the screw you are missing I will pull the screw and take a photo.

Gotta look and see what I have.

(After the screw was broken off jammed against the relief valve excessive pressure MAY have sheared a key or done other damage to the pump.)

Wore out, Thank you....I do have the manual, which is what led me to finding the broken screw. It had been previously broken and painted over, so most likely has been this way for quite a while.
The tractor is a new serial number style as above.

 

[sheibult]

If I remember right, your special screw is just a regular bolt, just need a copper washer to seal it.

Matthies, I was curious if it was just a "seal" for the test port or also served to limit fore/aft movement. The base of the screw is turned down smaller than the thread size. (at least the one I extracted)

 

[matthies]

I was thinking that the repair manual said to drill out a regular bolt and weld a hydraulic fitting to test pressure. But can see the machined end of your bolt/plug. And the parts breakdown also lists it as a special part.

 

[sheibult]

I was thinking that the repair manual said to drill out a regular bolt and weld a hydraulic fitting to test pressure. But can see the machined end of your bolt/plug. And the parts breakdown also lists it as a special part.

Matthies, I did cap the hole with a short plug (did not bottom out), and still no power steering.....on to the pump.

 

[matthies]

Did you happen to take the hose off and see if you get any oil coming out ??

 

[sheibult]

Did you happen to take the hose off and see if you get any oil coming out ??

With the hose off, I do get oil, although it is very aerated.
I put a gauge directly on the feed from the pump and deadheaded briefly, and it made approx. 1250psi.....with this pressure from the pump, the issue may be in the steering box rather than the pump? I have pressure at the discharge from the pump, but not at the test port on the valve housing.

 

[sheibult]

IF the pump was run "dry" for a long time at some point due to the leak it MAY be damaged or there may be other issues with it (such as a sheared key).

The manual the other poster suggested will explain how to flow test it before removing it and tearing it down.

F2372R is a "special capscrew, steering flow control valve stop", note removed screw sitting on the control valve in the photo below.

There is a procedure in the manual (Page 10-15-5) that explains how to install the special stop screw after the gauge adapter is removed after pressure adjustment is made. I'm GUESSING someone who worked on it in the past was unaware of that procedure and broke the screw off after bottoming it out on the relief valve.

I have a spare valve on the shelf, IF it is the newer style (above Serial # 6054,500that has the screw you are missing I will pull the screw and take a photo.

Gotta look and see what I have.

(After the screw was broken off jammed against the relief valve excessive pressure MAY have sheared a key or done other damage to the pump.)

Does the bottom of this screw limit motion in the valve housing?...curious if a shorter bolt (does not bottom out) would be an acceptable replacement?

 

[rmcky]

You mentioned very aerated oil, I think this indicates an air leak, on the suction side of the pump, or at the pump thru the back to back shaft seals on each side of the pump.

 

[wore out]

With the hose off, I do get oil, although it is very aerated.
I put a gauge directly on the feed from the pump and deadheaded briefly, and it made approx. 1250psi.....with this pressure from the pump, the issue may be in the steering box rather than the pump? I have pressure at the discharge from the pump, but not at the test port on the valve housing.

Since you have the newer type of valve, the pump (unless swapped) wouldn't have an internal relief valve and you DEADHEADED IT???

Typically, that would break the pump drive or the one or more of the pump body castings!

 

[sheibult]

Since you have the newer type of valve, the pump (unless swapped) wouldn't have an internal relief valve and you DEADHEADED IT???

Typically, that would break the pump drive or the one or more of the pump body castings!

Wore out, I may have a mix of parts, but it does appear the pump is the early style with the relief valve in the pump. I did get the pump off and apart. Definitely needs new seals, but not terrible otherwise. One of the bushing does have nick out of the end and slight wear. (photo attached)
Do you think it warrants new bushings?
Thanks,

 

[PJH]

Does the bottom of this screw limit motion in the valve housing?...curious if a shorter bolt (does not bottom out) would be an acceptable replacement?

A few years ago I took that bolt out on my 630 and installed the homemade adapter and gauge to check the pressure. When I was done I screwed the bolt back in and I had no power steering. I think that I had to remove the relief valve, screw the bolt in and then replace the relief valve and then all was well.

 

[620 John]

You mentioned very aerated oil, I think this indicates an air leak, on the suction side of the pump, or at the pump thru the back to back shaft seals on each side of the pump.

Yep, Mine sucks engine oil into the power steering through the fan shaft. I might have more than one issue going on but regardless I'm going through the whole assembly some day.

 

[wore out]

Wore out, I may have a mix of parts, but it does appear the pump is the early style with the relief valve in the pump. I did get the pump off and apart. Definitely needs new seals, but not terrible otherwise. One of the bushing does have nick out of the end and slight wear. (photo attached)
Do you think it warrants new bushings?
Thanks,

I'd put new bushings in it since you have it all apart.

How do the drive key and keyways look?

Since the pump has a pressure relief AND the valve has a pressure relief one or the other must have been swapped out over time.

It's POSSIBLE the relief valve in the valve on the steering gear is jammed/stuck and allowing the flow from the pump to bypass, take the relief valve and flow control valve apart and see if all the parts are there and they are free to move, then adjust as shown in the Tech Manual.

 

[sheibult]

I'd put new bushings in it since you have it all apart.

How do the drive key and keyways look?

Since the pump has a pressure relief AND the valve has a pressure relief one or the other must have been swapped out over time.

It's POSSIBLE the relief valve in the valve on the steering gear is jammed/stuck and allowing the flow from the pump to bypass, take the relief valve and flow control valve apart and see if all the parts are there and they are free to move, then adjust as shown in the Tech Manual.

One drive key shows a little wear, but all are intact. After taking apart the valve body, I am not convinced the "special screw" is any more than a plug..... if it is placed anywhere but on the cone side of the flow control valve, it will limit the motion of the valve. Can you confirm?

 

[sheibult]

Does anybody have a "special cap screw" part number F2372R they could measure the overall length on to determine how far into the housing it projects?