Ford Jubilee loader?

I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
I have a Ford 68 loader. It was used on my 1954 NAA (Jubilee without the Jubilee emblem). It works well. It has the manure bucket with forks and a dirt plate. I have the front bracket with bolts and the rear brackets with bolts. Hydraulic hoses have been joined with a single connection to tractor using standard male coupler. I live in southern Ohio and could possible deliver it.
 

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I have a Ford 68 loader. It was used on my 1954 NAA (Jubilee without the Jubilee emblem). It works well. It has the manure bucket with forks and a dirt plate. I have the front bracket with bolts and the rear brackets with bolts. Hydraulic hoses have been joined with a single connection to tractor using standard male coupler. I live in southern Ohio and could possible deliver it.
The Jubilee was the 50th anniversary Ford the 54 NAA wasn't plan and simple while almost the same there where a couple small things different
 
You do not need Power Steering to operate with a FEL......I hope you are joking!
Many of us grew up running farm tractors without power steering. When it came time to move snow or manure, some sort of loader would be mounted to that tractor. We also ran four-row front-mounted cultivators on those tractors. We are paying for it now.
 
I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
Used one for years for both manure and snow. Before that was a 44 2N tractor. No live hydrolics or power steering. Also used PTO equipment and never missed live PTO. Actually after had live PTO did not use it but stayed with tractor without it. And loader was a modified Ferguson from newer style tractor.. That is for front mount loader but used rear mount loader for years on both the NAA and 2N and a Ferguson TO30, all without power steering or live hyfrolics Just slower working.
 
I have a ford step-through loader with the front bolster. The frame is used to hold hydraulic oil. Has front mount pump. We had the same type on our Jubilee as a kid asking 300.00 2 spool valve
I may be interested in that if you are relatively close. Where are you located?
 
I had a loader on an 8N. Very hard to use day to day. Sure - it can be done, but it's not pleasant. I agree with those advocating for a setup with PS. The Wagner jungle gym pipe are about the only thing that will fit on a Jubilee without some welding mods. Sometimes found on CL or facebook. I again recommend invest a few though and get a 8x1, 9x1 Ford with PS and a loader.
 
I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
I've got one I took off on a Jubilee that I had put a new hydro pump control valve and crank to pump coupling on. I'd let it go for what I've got in it $800.00.
 
Anyone know if a kelly 500 loader will fit these? Or what measurements I need to determine if one will fit right? - I found one in a field in pieces so .....
 
you could also troll on some of those salvage/auction sites and see what loader models are left on some of those 50s era ford tractor carcasses --who knows maybe you'll find something semi-local

if all else fails you could prolly eek out a project with a rear 3pt scoop :ROFLMAO:
 
I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
I don't know anything about a post driver. Buy from the picturews that loader should be very easy to modify to fit the tractor if you do not have all the pieces if to mount if you have a welder and torch, It mounts to the rear axle and If I remember correctly, been years there might be a mount in middle of tractor bur if not easy to mount to front end. And the steering being hard mostly will be due to wore out thrust bearings in the front wheels as most tractors they are worn out . Had one very simular that we put on a NAA after on the 2N but too many years (45?) to remember exactly how to do it but if you can cut and weld no problem with mounting. All we had at that time for manure and snow removeable. You have all the main parts you will need showing in the pictures. Just some angle iron, channel iron and bolts to mount.
 
I don't know anything about a post driver. Buy from the picturews that loader should be very easy to modify to fit the tractor if you do not have all the pieces if to mount if you have a welder and torch, It mounts to the rear axle and If I remember correctly, been years there might be a mount in middle of tractor bur if not easy to mount to front end. And the steering being hard mostly will be due to wore out thrust bearings in the front wheels as most tractors they are worn out . Had one very simular that we put on a NAA after on the 2N but too many years (45?) to remember exactly how to do it but if you can cut and weld no problem with mounting. All we had at that time for manure and snow removeable. You have all the main parts you will need showing in the pictures. Just some angle iron, channel iron and bolts to mount.
Thanks! I think I'm gonna give it a whirl thanks for insight!
 
Our NAA has a Freeman loader. It has a hydraulic pump at the front PTO with a two gallon homemade tank in front of the radiator. The counterweight on back is a half-barrel filled with rock and concrete. The drawbar runs right through the barrel so it fits on the 3-point arms. The upright piece was welded on prior to filling the barrel with concrete. It HAS power steering and needs 3-rib tires in order to steer. It has a trip-bucket with dirt plate. It will lift about 700 pounds, but lift is all it does; it cant dig into the dirt.

When bush hogging, because the tank is in front of the radiator, the rad gets filled with chaff, then the engine overheats.
I agree with others here. Get a better tractor of your need a FEL.
 
Thanks! I think I'm gonna give it a whirl thanks for insight!
If you get it I cannot see in the picturews the mounts for the rear axle so I would sugust you start out by getting a paire of stablizer brackets unless you already have the after market all steel type and not the orignal cast type. You can start my mounting those stabilizer brackets to use to hold the long side arms on the loader. Then block up the complete loader frame so those side bars are level with where the stabilizer brackets will moint to hold those frames while you try different positions of thestabilizer brackets as first step im mounting the loader. Our JUB with the modified Ferguson Loader left back in 1980 so I do not rember all details in mounting but rember those mounting bars shown in your pictures have to be mounted to where those stabilizer brackets will be on the rear axle. Uou might have the correct mounting pieces but not showing in your pictures. And If I rember correctly there are mounting bolt holes under the transmission area. We did not use them but had it mounted tomthe front end where te engine mountd as the 2N did nithave the mid mount holes like later tractors did. Just a simple position the frame for correct mounting to rearaxle and go from there. Once you get the back end in place just use your eyes to locate the other mounts. We did not use the tractor hydrolic controls for the loader as we had an after market remote cylinder control, we used that alsu was used for cylinder lift other machinery.. That type of control will give you better control of loade position but you will be using only theraise part of the control That bypasses the draft control used for a plow to give you better position control. And we did have the mounted plow for our tractor. And we could use same control for a wheel carried disk. Your 4th picture I don't rember anything like that being with the loader so it may still be a part of the loader, I don't know. Our tractor was traded on a 1965 Ford $000 with the 38 inch rear wheels. for heavier field work. And that reminds me if you have the 19 inch front wheels you will want to get a pair of the 16 inch with 6:00x 16 tires to make it handle better.
 
I have a Jubilee with a loader. To make it work well I have 1100 pounds of steel on the back, and added power steering off a Hundred series Ford tractor. It is also converted to 12 volt but still with a generator. I have broken the right front spindle as it is always overloaded. I also have a smaller Kubota with front assist and power steering that gets used more,and drives better. My advice, look for a newer tractor and save a lot of work and time making the Jubilee work for you. Look for one with the loader already installed and drive it before you buy.
Agree!!! we had to hang the heaviest and longest thing on the farm, on to the rear of the tractor, to help counter weight the loader. Had a 5' shredder with 1/4 inch plate on it.. Still very hard to steer and impossible to steer if sitting still. AND.. it was impossible to clean out the pens with a long loader on the back because you could not maneuver in tight spaces.. But we farmed 130 acres with the 8n and wagner loader..
 
If you get it I cannot see in the picturews the mounts for the rear axle so I would sugust you start out by getting a paire of stablizer brackets unless you already have the after market all steel type and not the orignal cast type. You can start my mounting those stabilizer brackets to use to hold the long side arms on the loader. Then block up the complete loader frame so those side bars are level with where the stabilizer brackets will moint to hold those frames while you try different positions of thestabilizer brackets as first step im mounting the loader. Our JUB with the modified Ferguson Loader left back in 1980 so I do not rember all details in mounting but rember those mounting bars shown in your pictures have to be mounted to where those stabilizer brackets will be on the rear axle. Uou might have the correct mounting pieces but not showing in your pictures. And If I rember correctly there are mounting bolt holes under the transmission area. We did not use them but had it mounted tomthe front end where te engine mountd as the 2N did nithave the mid mount holes like later tractors did. Just a simple position the frame for correct mounting to rearaxle and go from there. Once you get the back end in place just use your eyes to locate the other mounts. We did not use the tractor hydrolic controls for the loader as we had an after market remote cylinder control, we used that alsu was used for cylinder lift other machinery.. That type of control will give you better control of loade position but you will be using only theraise part of the control That bypasses the draft control used for a plow to give you better position control. And we did have the mounted plow for our tractor. And we could use same control for a wheel carried disk. Your 4th picture I don't rember anything like that being with the loader so it may still be a part of the loader, I don't know. Our tractor was traded on a 1965 Ford $000 with the 38 inch rear wheels. for heavier field work. And that reminds me if you have the 19 inch front wheels you will want to get a pair of the 16 inch with 6:00x 16 tires to make it handle better.
Leroy, this is a Feb. 29, 2024 thread. It has been revived by gobigred94 who is asking if a Kelly 500 loader will fit these tractors in reply 28. If you would have looked a little closer at other replies you would have seen Tim Dayley who I assume you know is RIP replied to it, big clue there. I think that bigred replied to you somewhat mistakenly, but is actually “giving a whirl” to the recommendations of tractordord in replies 29 and 30. The pictures you are referencing have no real connection to the current request by gobigred although your loader mounting info has some generally helpful info about mounting a loader. The member Rick_NAA who posted the loader with the photos you are referring to looks like he is a “one time and gone” poster, only shows him active on the forum for that one post. Checking the date, of the opening post of a thread can sometimes save you a bit of time typing. Have a good day!
 
I’m picking up a 1953 Ford Jubilee Sunday. Wanting to put a loader on it, what loaders will fit it? Are they hard to find?

Also would the Jubilee be able to handle a post driver?
I bought a 4 cylinder 4000 (other than different paint and a little more HP same as your '53 Jubilee) that had a tube loader powered by a hydraulic pump off the front of the engine's crankshaft. It took me no time to get it off and sell it.

The hydraulic fluid was contained in the loader's tubing frame and it was a massive thing partially supported at the rear axle. The front axle on the tractor was upside down and there was a very noticeable weld across the center of the front axle where the pivot sleeve goes, indicating that the loader itself (considering) plus the load in the bucket was too much for that diddly little front end and it broke the axle.

If you want a loader, my experience directs me to tell you to go and get yourself a tractor that can handle a loader.

The other thing I found on older loader tractors (numerous brands, Ford, IH and CIH to name a few with which I am familiar, is that there is always a lot of framing up front to support the weight of the loader and bucket contents. This severely restricts your access to the engine area for normal servicing and any kind of maintenance. Newer tractors are built for loaders, both in their framing and in the way the loader mounts. On them, if you raise the loader arms, you have total access to the engine area and there is a significant reduction in the amount of steel forward of midsection on the tractor taking a lot of the load off the front axle. Good luck.
 
I bought a 4 cylinder 4000 (other than different paint and a little more HP same as your '53 Jubilee) that had a tube loader powered by a hydraulic pump off the front of the engine's crankshaft. It took me no time to get it off and sell it.

The hydraulic fluid was contained in the loader's tubing frame and it was a massive thing partially supported at the rear axle. The front axle on the tractor was upside down and there was a very noticeable weld across the center of the front axle where the pivot sleeve goes, indicating that the loader itself (considering) plus the load in the bucket was too much for that diddly little front end and it broke the axle.

If you want a loader, my experience directs me to tell you to go and get yourself a tractor that can handle a loader.

The other thing I found on older loader tractors (numerous brands, Ford, IH and CIH to name a few with which I am familiar, is that there is always a lot of framing up front to support the weight of the loader and bucket contents. This severely restricts your access to the engine area for normal servicing and any kind of maintenance. Newer tractors are built for loaders, both in their framing and in the way the loader mounts. On them, if you raise the loader arms, you have total access to the engine area and there is a significant reduction in the amount of steel forward of midsection on the tractor taking a lot of the load off the front axle. Good luck.
Mark, check out my number 36 reply to Leroy. Yep, this post is about a year old and was recently revived by a new user in reply 28. I’ll do the following; maybe @Massey_165 will drop by and give you guys a follow up on his Jub and let you know if he ended up putting a loader on it.
 
I grew up on a dairy farm, running an IH 300utility, loading the manure spreader, with no power steering. I was 9 yrs old when I first started. You only turn the wheel when moving. Mark.
You fell victim to the older revived thread. Tim Daley RIP replied to this thread so that is a pretty good indication one may want to check the date. The current discussion revolves around reply 28 by a new member.
 
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