1972 MF20 - Getting it started - Sitting LONG time

So i got lucky and found this 72' MF20 that is identical to my 73' MF20. Main difference being i have the bucket. But everything else looks to be similar.

I bought it as a parts tractor. But... Now that I have it. It looks complete. I want to see if I can get it going with some effort. The previous owners didn't have any information on it at all. I'm not even sure how long its been sitting.

So besides the obvious, oil change & fuel tank cleaning. What is the process to get on of these started? I am new to mechanical diesel set ups. I am familiar with electronic fuel injection and gasoline engines.

(Perkins diesel engine)
 

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If the oil looks decent an the fuel is not solid in the tank I'd toss a battery in it an give her a spin an see if it starts
If the oil is over full loosen the drain plug an see if water or antifreeze seeps out
 
If the oil looks decent an the fuel is not solid in the tank I'd toss a battery in it an give her a spin an see if it starts
If the oil is over full loosen the drain plug an see if water or antifreeze seeps out

I've seen videos of tractors being pulled from overgrown areas. Adding fuel and a battery and starting up.

Maybe i'll get lucky...
 
ok, so oil looked ok. good enough to attempt a start. I put fuel in it. It was completely dry. decently clean fuel tank.

Turns over just fine. No start.

I am very new to tractors. I am not sure how to check the fuel pump or really any of the fuel related parts to see if they work.

Is there some sort of documentation of fuel system diagnosis I can check out?
 
There should be a hand pump on the lift pump on the right hand side of the engine iirc.
Pump the heck out of it.
Diesel engines can be hard to bleed all the air out
 
There should be a hand pump on the lift pump on the right hand side of the engine iirc.
Pump the heck out of it.
Diesel engines can be hard to bleed all the air out

I am planning on this. But i broke the original fuel filter trying to check for clogs when removing it. So i am trying to find a replacement.
 
I am planning on this. But i broke the original fuel filter trying to check for clogs when removing it. So i am trying to find a replacement.
You brought the bottom or the middle of the filter?
That looks like the rite filter but it will not come with a new bottom part
 
You brought the bottom or the middle of the filter?
That looks like the rite filter but it will not come with a new bottom part

I broke the bottom plastic part unfortunately. My other MF20 has a different NAPA Fuel filter (not a 3166) but i can not make out the part number. It does NOT have a separate bottom. It's a single piece.
 
For other in my position trying to source a fuel filter. I believe you may need: (FROM NAPA)

Fuel Filter: PN 3166
Fuel Filter Bowl accessory for CAV-style filters: PN 600012 (Fuel Sediment Bowl)
Drain Sensor Port: PN 600014

(EDIT: I CANNOT FIND PN 600014. NONE OF THE OTHER REFERENCED PN'S SEEM TO EXIST EITHER. ITS A 1/4-20 THREADED SENSOR PORT. I WILL TRY AND USE A BOLT AND O-RING - WILL UPDATE IN THE FUTURE)
 
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I suggest you look at the MF 20 parts book and use the Massey Ferguson part numbers to search for the parts you need. I see a bowl number of 1024386M1 in the parts book and get a number of hits in a web search using that part number. Here is a link to the MF 20 parts book online.

MF 20 Industrial parts book
 
"Preferred method?" If it starts, it works. If it don't work it won't start. Until you get it all bled out and actually see fuel AT the injectors while cranking, there's no sure fire way to know what works and what doesn't. Once past that, remember, to run it needs both fuel AND compression. You don't know much about that yet either. It was parked for a reason.

Your choice of course, but if I were doing it (assuming from the photos it's a dry clutch gear drive machine?) I would probably try tow starting it before going to the trouble of borrowing a battery and fighting old rotten cables and such only to hear it crank at about half the speed it needs to run. I've towed tractors with tired engines a half mile belching smoke until they finally built up enough heat to actually fire off and run. If you see smoke you have a chance.
 
"Preferred method?" If it starts, it works. If it don't work it won't start. Until you get it all bled out and actually see fuel AT the injectors while cranking, there's no sure fire way to know what works and what doesn't. Once past that, remember, to run it needs both fuel AND compression. You don't know much about that yet either. It was parked for a reason.

Your choice of course, but if I were doing it (assuming from the photos it's a dry clutch gear drive machine?) I would probably try tow starting it before going to the trouble of borrowing a battery and fighting old rotten cables and such only to hear it crank at about half the speed it needs to run. I've towed tractors with tired engines a half mile belching smoke until they finally built up enough heat to actually fire off and run. If you see smoke you have a chance.

I have the exact same tractor just one year newer. All of the parts on this one (72'). Look to be in better condition than my 73' that runs. At least from looking at them externally.

I just borrowed the battery from my 73' and keep it on the charger. While cranking, it spins over just fine, and I can hear it has plenty of compression. Of course, there still could be actual engine issues.

I'm just trying to figure out if I can diagnose which part in the the fuel delivery system may be the problem. If in fact, it's a fuel delivery problem anyway.

(I only have experience with fuel injection gasoline cars. I've built plenty of modified streetcars over the years. This is just my first time trying to diagnose and fix a diesel tractor)
 
Well then give a fuel supply, bleed the pump and injector lines, and go for it. If you already have this model tractor you must know how to do that. What's the hold up? I guess I don't understand your question here.
 
I have the exact same tractor just one year newer. All of the parts on this one (72'). Look to be in better condition than my 73' that runs. At least from looking at them externally.

I just borrowed the battery from my 73' and keep it on the charger. While cranking, it spins over just fine, and I can hear it has plenty of compression. Of course, there still could be actual engine issues.

I'm just trying to figure out if I can diagnose which part in the the fuel delivery system may be the problem. If in fact, it's a fuel delivery problem anyway.

(I only have experience with fuel injection gasoline cars. I've built plenty of modified streetcars over the years. This is just my first time trying to diagnose and fix a diesel tractor)
Should be a bleeder on top of the fuel filter setup
Crack it an see if fuel comes out when stroking the pump
Can loosen the line at the pump an see if its pumping fuel that far also
After you get fuel that far you can Crack the injector lines loose an see if any fuel appears there while cranking
 
Well then give a fuel supply, bleed the pump and injector lines, and go for it. If you already have this model tractor you must know how to do that. What's the hold up? I guess I don't understand your question here.

The question, or point really. Is, i have no idea what i am doing. lol

I know what a fuel pump looks like and how to diagnose all the fuel system parts on a car. But everything on this tractor is completely foreign to me. When someone mentions a part name. I have to search the parts manual to see what it looks like.

If you don't know, you don't know. and..... I don't know.
 
Should be a bleeder on top of the fuel filter setup
Crack it an see if fuel comes out when stroking the pump
Can loosen the line at the pump an see if its pumping fuel that far also
After you get fuel that far you can Crack the injector lines loose an see if any fuel appears there while cranking

What do you mean by "stroking the pump?" and this in the injection pump on the left side near the front on the engine?

Lift pump being on the other side (right leg side while sitting in the seat)? The smaller part at the rear upper portion of the engine?
 
What do you mean by "stroking the pump?" and this in the injection pump on the left side near the front on the engine?

Lift pump being on the other side (right leg side while sitting in the seat)? The smaller part at the rear upper portion of the engine?


The gold coloured part above the starter is a MF lift pump.

There will be a handle or lever of some type on it, this one is right below the center screw. You "stroke" it by pushing it down, it will return up itself to be pushed down again and again until you get fuel to the filter(s) and inj. pump.

Yours may look different but it works the same way.



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