Kevinwterry
Member
Is this hydrant only used for the water tub? From what im reading, maybe just eliminate the hydrant and move the valve and piping underground with one one those plastic cover boxes for access.
What in the world is the purpose of having a hydraunt? Bring the water line up to the tank and put on a faucet.Lets see/hear your ways of keeping a frost free farm hydrant from freezing
This style
View attachment 127622
I leave mine on year round to a small tank with a float for the livestock
Been wrapping everything in heat tape then insulation
After that I stack old tires around it an fill it with wood chips.
Wrap the tires with a heavy tarp to block the wind.
Need to redo it this fall an wondering if anyone has a simpler setup
Cause the hydrant has been there 50 yearsWhat in the world is the purpose of having a hydraunt? Bring the water line up to the tank and put on a faucet.
If you want something to use less hydro to heat it and want to do some work. The hydrant should be in a 24 inch plastic culvert. The culvert should be 8 ft long. 5.5 in the grounds and 2.5 ft above.Fair enough
This is southern kansas
It is rare for us to spend a full week below freezing
Will dip down at night but usually warms above freezing during the day
But we do occasionally get a week stretch with wind an never rise above freezing
This hydrant is outside unprotected
The tank is just a small 25 gallon tub with a electric tank heater in it well insulated with half the top covered
Float an short hose going to the tub
The hose an float are heat taped an insulated as well
The tires have worked well for years an ill probably just go back that way just was seeing if anyone else had a creative way of accomplishing the same thing
I use self regulating vs constantI didn’t realize they made heat tape that could be put under insulation.
One thing I noticed over the years with this setup is the small tank works better in preventing freezing up.If you want something to use less hydro to heat it and want to do some work. The hydrant should be in a 24 inch plastic culvert. The culvert should be 8 ft long. 5.5 in the grounds and 2.5 ft above.
insulate what is out of the ground. have your water trough right against it and insulated as well. make sure the lid that covers the trough covers the culvert as well. If you have a good seal on the lid so the wind can't get in the ground heat that is coming up out of the culvert will keep it from ever freezing. If you do this you can throw away the hydrant and just have a normal tape mounted in the culvert. Basically making a frost free water trough. Works better than a lot of the ones you buy if you spray with foam so it is all sealed up. wind is the biggest killer of water tanks in the winter. I even found that in a building even if unheated the water fountains don't freeze with a 10 inch pipe coming out underneath
goats don't drink much water. you could just fill the tank once a day or even every other day. My sheep drink only a couple times a day in the summer. In the winter if the fountain is 200 yards away they eat snow instead of drinking at the fountain.One thing I noticed over the years with this setup is the small tank works better in preventing freezing up.
When I had 10ish cattle on it I only had to plug it in if we were going to remain below freezing for an extended period.
Just dipping below freezing at night it warmed itself enough from their use to prevent freezing
Now that its just a few goats I pretty much have to keep it plugged in all winter
I suppose thats one reason I should bite the bullet an start running some cows again
Cheaper electric bill![]()
I like the heat tape that goes in the line. more money but out of sight and out of the way.I didn’t realize they made heat tape that could be put under insulation.
True an i may go that route this year.goats don't drink much water. you could just fill the tank once a day or even every other day. My sheep drink only a couple times a day in the summer. In the winter if the fountain is 200 yards away they eat snow instead of drinking at the fountain.
The whole idea of having a "Frostproof Hydrant" is so you can turn it off and it won't freeze.Fair enough
This is southern kansas
It is rare for us to spend a full week below freezing
Will dip down at night but usually warms above freezing during the day
But we do occasionally get a week stretch with wind an never rise above freezing
This hydrant is outside unprotected
The tank is just a small 25 gallon tub with a electric tank heater in it well insulated with half the top covered
Float an short hose going to the tub
The hose an float are heat taped an insulated as well
The tires have worked well for years an ill probably just go back that way just was seeing if anyone else had a creative way of accomplishing the same thing
I fully understand how a frostproof hydrant works.The whole idea of having a "Frostproof Hydrant" is so you can turn it off and it won't freeze.
When installed correctly the actual shut off valve which is below frost level is connected to the shut off lever with a long rod.
When you shut off the valve, the water in the hydrant drains away leaving an empty pipe.
Same concept as a Frost Proof sill cock on the side of your house.
Maybe if you look it up on line you will find a complete description including a diagram.
I suppose I could dig it deep an big enough it wouldHow about digging a dry well next to the tank and letting the tank leak into it?
Lets see/hear your ways of keeping a frost free farm hydrant from freezing
This style
View attachment 127622
I leave mine on year round to a small tank with a float for the livestock
Been wrapping everything in heat tape then insulation
After that I stack old tires around it an fill it with wood chips.
Wrap the tires with a heavy tarp to block the wind.
Need to redo it this fall an wondering if anyone has a simp
I did the same thing for many years. I just did it the easy way. I used a TEE They make them out of brass copper cast iron, steel, PVC, poly butelene, and even polyethylene. By simply in stalling a TEE, you can have year around supply to your waterer, and year around supply to your hydrant 40 feet or ten feet away. So SIMPLE!!!With the way I have been doing it it does not freeze
Was just curious if/how others accomplished the same thing
Surly I can't be the only one around that does something similar.
I don't really have an issue with my setup just having a conversation about different ideas is all
Thought I made that clear but sorry for any confusion![]()
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2025 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy