Cat 2 tractor cat 1 plow

[soupkid]

My tractor (484) has a cat 2 3pt hitch, my plow (old Ford 2 bottom) is cat 1.
The problem is the ball ends on the tractor are too wide for the plow.
Can I just shave a little off the tractor ends to make it fit the plow.

 

[Janicholson]

I would not modify a newer tractor to fit older (antique) implements. Modify the plow with extensions as needed to match the tractor. A new heavy pipe, Maybe 1.5" schedule 80 with Cat 2 pins sticking out, welded (or bolted with plates) to locate it. Jim

 

[Tony in SD]

I would not modify a newer tractor to fit older (antique) implements. Modify the plow with extensions as needed to match the tractor. A new heavy pipe, Maybe 1.5" schedule 80 with Cat 2 pins sticking out, welded (or bolted with plates) to locate it. Jim

X2

 

[oliverkid]

Accidental post. Won’t let me delete. Disregard.

 

[DanielW]

It sounds like the balls on the arms are a smidge too wide to be able to get the lynch pins in (not that you can't get the arms close enough together). I've had this on a couple implements. On our post-hole auger, I just used a die-grinder to widen out the pin holes on the auger a smidge so there was enough room (and used smaller diameter lynch pins - green in pic below). On something else (I can't remember what - may have been a sickle mower) I drilled a second set of holes in the implement pins at 90 degrees, further out to give enough room (orange). Not sure if you'll have enough meat on your plow for that though, and depending on how hard the old pins are, that might be easier said than done. Or just cut off and weld new pins on - you can stick with Cat I pins, because any newer Cat 1 pins you buy will have a longer distance between the flange and the hole.

You're not going to cause any problems by grinding down your hitch balls a smidge. Just seems a shame to modify a newer, stock tractor to fit an older implement.

 

[soupkid]

It sounds like the balls on the arms are a smidge too wide to be able to get the lynch pins in (not that you can't get the arms close enough together). I've had this on a couple implements. On our post-hole auger, I just used a die-grinder to widen out the pin holes on the auger a smidge so there was enough room (and used smaller diameter lynch pins - green in pic below). On something else (I can't remember what - may have been a sickle mower) I drilled a second set of holes in the implement pins at 90 degrees, further out to give enough room (orange). Not sure if you'll have enough meat on your plow for that though, and depending on how hard the old pins are, that might be easier said than done. Or just cut off and weld new pins on - you can stick with Cat I pins, because any newer Cat 1 pins you buy will have a longer distance between the flange and the hole.

You're not going to cause any problems by grinding down your hitch balls a smidge. Just seems a shame to modify a newer, stock tractor to fit an older implement.
View attachment 129052

I should have been asked little clearer with the problem but you got it exactly right.
Drilling the holes a little wider May be a problem, i think the plow pins are cast iron.
Putting new pins on is not possible as both pins are on the same shaft on the plow.
I may try shaving a little off the balls and plow, I only need about 1/4".
Thanks for the replies and helpful hints.

 

[DanielW]

I should have been asked little clearer with the problem but you got it exactly right.
Drilling the holes a little wider May be a problem, i think the plow pins are cast iron.
Putting new pins on is not possible as both pins are on the same shaft on the plow.
I may try shaving a little off the balls and plow, I only need about 1/4".
Thanks for the replies and helpful hints.

If they're a cast piece, putting new pins on is definitely problematic. But I doubt it would be cast iron (it'd be too brittle): It's probably cast or formed steel, so it should still be weldable. If you cut the old pins off and weld new ones on (with a decent weld-prep groove and some pre-heating as of the new pin as it will probably be hardened) you'd be able to weld them on just dandy. Or us a carbide burr on a die-grinder to lengthen the holes.

But ultimately, although I say it's a shame to modify a new tractor to fit an old plow. If I were in that situation with an implement and needed to get to the field asap, I'd just do it as quickly/easily as possible. Which would probably mean shaving the balls down just like you're planning. You probably don't even need to shave the whole face of the ball down - just grind a couple grooves in it so the pin can fit in a little closer. Grind them just on one side, so when you go to hook a Cat 2 implement up you can just turn the ball to face inward and still have the same support and tight clearance to the pin.

 

[soupkid]

If they're a cast piece, putting new pins on is definitely problematic. But I doubt it would be cast iron (it'd be too brittle): It's probably cast or formed steel, so it should still be weldable. If you cut the old pins off and weld new ones on (with a decent weld-prep groove and some pre-heating as of the new pin as it will probably be hardened) you'd be able to weld them on just dandy. Or us a carbide burr on a die-grinder to lengthen the holes.

But ultimately, although I say it's a shame to modify a new tractor to fit an old plow. If I were in that situation with an implement and needed to get to the field asap, I'd just do it as quickly/easily as possible. Which would probably mean shaving the balls down just like you're planning. You probably don't even need to shave the whole face of the ball down - just grind a couple grooves in it so the pin can fit in a little closer. Grind them just on one side, so when you go to hook a Cat 2 implement up you can just turn the ball to face inward and still have the same support and tight clearance to the pin.
View attachment 129065

I never thought of putting a grove in the balls, hmmmm.

 

[Destroked 450]

Some of my Fords use interchangeable balls in the lift arms, rather than having 2 sets of balls I use cat 2 balls with flat sides and just carry a set of reducer bushings to switch from cat 1 to cat 2

These balls are narrow enough to work with my Ford 3-16” plows that has cat 1 hitch

For your app I would have not issues grinding a little off the sides of those balls on the tractor to get them to work with any implements you may have and then use bushings to tighten up the fit
You’ll definitely need bushings with those plows or it’ll never plow properly

 

[soupkid]

Some of my Fords use interchangeable balls in the lift arms, rather than having 2 sets of balls I use cat 2 balls with flat sides and just carry a set of reducer bushings to switch from cat 1 to cat 2
View attachment 129074

These balls are narrow enough to work with my Ford 3-16” plows that has cat 1 hitch

For your app I would have not issues grinding a little off the sides of those balls on the tractor to get them to work with any implements you may have and then use bushings to tighten up the fit
You’ll definitely need bushings with those plows or it’ll never plow properly

I have bushings

 

[paul]

Then the problem will become, how to set the plow. A cat 2 tractor is typically a little wider, a cat 1 plow is going to be a narrow thing.

You might have difficulty lining up the plow behind the tractor to plow decent.

Paul

 

[soupkid]

All I use the plow for is breaking up the ground and roots in my deer food plots.
I have a set of harrows and disks to smooth things out.

 

[Ray,IN]

I can't speak to Ford, however Massey Ferguson has replaceable swivel balls in the pull arms. I have a set of CAT2 and CAT1 swivel balls in the tractor toolbox. They are held in with a tiny clip on the inside of each pull arm.
My MF451 is a CAT2 tractor, but all my equipment is CAT1. With the adjustable stabilizers on the pull arms I can set them so my old H. Ferguson 2-14's pull just fine.

 

[Texasmark]

My tractor (484) has a cat 2 3pt hitch, my plow (old Ford 2 bottom) is cat 1.
The problem is the ball ends on the tractor are too wide for the plow.
Can I just shave a little off the tractor ends to make it fit the plow.

You can get lift pins for the implement that are extra long with nuts on both sides rather than a nut on one side and flange on the other side of the attachment point allowing for added room.

 

[soupkid]

You can get lift pins for the implement that are extra long with nuts on both sides rather than a nut on one side and flange on the other side of the attachment point allowing for added room.

Problem is the pins are on a 1 piece shaft.

 

[paul]

I’d really not want to modify the tractor itself for this. Those balls do wear and fall out over the years, making them narrower might cause some issues. As well they will have less meat on them for using tough pulling equipment. Looking over the years I’d just not want to do that.

Do you have a quick hitch, cat 1? Use that?

Could you get those quick hitch ears for cat one, and adapt them to give you a longer pin with them? Put them on backwards and drilling a new hole?

Paul

 

[Destroked 450]

I’d really not want to modify the tractor itself for this. Those balls do wear and fall out over the years, making them narrower might cause some issues. As well they will have less meat on them for using tough pulling equipment. Looking over the years I’d just not want to do that.

Do you have a quick hitch, cat 1? Use that?

Could you get those quick hitch ears for cat one, and adapt them to give you a longer pin with them? Put them on backwards and drilling a new hole?

Paul

I’ve never worn out a set of lift arm balls, but I have worn out the socket in the lift arm that the balls fit in, that’s why weld on replacement ends are available
Since the lift arm socket is narrower and thinner than the ball I don’t think one has to worry about the ball failing
The only thing a narrower ball will do is move around some on a wide pin but I’ve never had any issues with that

 

[soupkid]

I finally found and answer to my cat 1 & 2 issue.
On the other end of the arms are cat 1 balls.
All I had to do was reverse the arms, have a bushing to shorten but a grinder will fix that.

 

[Tx Jim]

I finally found and answer to my cat 1 & 2 issue.
On the other end of the arms are cat 1 balls.
All I had to do was reverse the arms, have a bushing to shorten but a grinder will fix that.

I fail to understand how reversing draft links to relocate draft link ball with smaller inside diameter then needing a bushing where draft link attaches to tractor solves anything other than bushing will be secured.. I doubt if holes where lift link attaches to draft link will be in correct location for 3pt hitch to operate correctly BUT I guess one can drill holes in correct locations if no holes are present in correct locations

 

[soupkid]

I fail to understand how reversing draft links to relocate draft link ball with smaller inside diameter then needing a bushing where draft link attaches to tractor solves anything other than bushing will be secured.. I doubt if holes where lift link attaches to draft link will be in correct location for 3pt hitch to operate correctly BUT I guess one can drill holes in correct locations if no holes are present in correct locations

The hole, first orange arrow, is exactly in the middle of the draft link.
The problem was the cat 2 balls are too wide for most of my cat 1 implements.
The cat 1 balls are narrower than the cat 2