Super A Engine Rebuild.

[Cdog2cool4u]

I'm in the process of restoring my grandfather's Super A. I have the motor taken apart and my next step would be to buy a rebuild kit. What are my best options for getting the most power out of the engine while still having it usable for everyday work?
Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

 

[used red MN]

I'm in the process of restoring my grandfather's Super A. I have the motor taken apart and my next step would be to buy a rebuild kit. What are my best options for getting the most power out of the engine while still having it usable for everyday work?
Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

Not sure what your real goal is? I would suggest that you install “stepped head” pistons that raise the compression. These pistons aren’t overboard causing you to use high octane gas, mostly because the original compression ratio of these engines was so low. Use those pistons and make sure the valves, bearings and everything else is addressed as needed. Don’t attempt to reinvent the wheel.
Approached in this manner it will last your lifetime and probably that of your children if there is still fuel available for it at that point. Does it really do “everyday” work? Very likely not.
Link to YT Super A overhaul kits

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

Not sure what your real goal is? I would suggest that you install “stepped head” pistons that raise the compression. These pistons aren’t overboard causing you to use high octane gas, mostly because the original compression ratio of these engines was so low. Use those pistons and make sure the valves, bearings and everything else is addressed as needed. Don’t attempt to reinvent the wheel.
Approached in this manner it will last your lifetime and probably that of your children if there is still fuel available for it at that point. Does it really do “everyday” work? Very likely not.
Link to YT Super A overhaul kits

My goal would be to have it run and drive so I can use it for shows, plow days, and use around the house as needed. I'm not trying to take it to do Tractor Pulls. I had heard about the stepped head pistons and firecrater pistons. I was not sure if they were the same thing. Also do I need to make any adjustments to the rest of the engine because I am using pistons that raise the compression. This is my first time rebuilding an engine. When I got it home I did a compression check and found next to 0 compression in all 4 cylinders from there I started taking it apart to try to find a crack or other catastrophic failure. I had a fellow club member take a look at the head and he found multiple valves stuck open which he suspected was the cause of the low compression numbers. My thought process is because I'm going to have to put it back together I want to do what is reasonably possible to upgrade the internals to give my self a little more power if possible without causing strain that is going to result in me breaking something.

 

[560Dennis]

What is your budget for this project ? Compare to the quotes for parts ,machine shop quotes for necessary repairs.
Do you have a machine shop to help you with the project?
You mentioned rebuild kit.
YT in resource has many, articles to help you decide.
Here’s a link to one. https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/pages/artint63/
Look it over .

The dome piston kits changes timing , follow the bulletin to ensure the power is achieved .

 

[grandpa Love]

My goal would be to have it run and drive so I can use it for shows, plow days, and use around the house as needed. I'm not trying to take it to do Tractor Pulls. I had heard about the stepped head pistons and firecrater pistons. I was not sure if they were the same thing. Also do I need to make any adjustments to the rest of the engine because I am using pistons that raise the compression. This is my first time rebuilding an engine. When I got it home I did a compression check and found next to 0 compression in all 4 cylinders from there I started taking it apart to try to find a crack or other catastrophic failure. I had a fellow club member take a look at the head and he found multiple valves stuck open which he suspected was the cause of the low compression numbers. My thought process is because I'm going to have to put it back together I want to do what is reasonably possible to upgrade the internals to give my self a little more power if possible without causing strain that is going to result in me breaking something.

WOW...stuck valves,no compression that was probably the only issue. I would have started with unsticking the valves, removing them, cleaning everything, lapping the valves and putting it back together. If the pistons weren't stuck ( couldn't have been if you ran a compression test) I would have installed a new head gasket and run it. Especially for as little as you plan to use it.

 

[MM-TX]

I'm in the process of restoring my grandfather's Super A. I have the motor taken apart and my next step would be to buy a rebuild kit. What are my best options for getting the most power out of the engine while still having it usable for everyday work?
Any assistance you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

A lot depends on how much you want to put into it. How far have you gone talking it apart? @grandpa Love has a solid suggestion, probably not too late. Most of the rebuild kits are stepped head. Firecracker are just an old name for basically the same thing. Having the engine apart even if you determine everything is good enough to use and not go the expensive replace route is not a bad thing. Read a lot, good luck, have fun.

 

[Cdog2cool4u]

Currently I have block still in the tractor. I have dropped the oil pan and removed the pistons. I took it apart further than I probably needed to. While it had been sitting over the last 5 years a tree branch fell and broke the muffler off so I was concerned there was rust/damage to the cylinder walls which is why I disassembled it as far as I did. This is also my first time rebuilding a motor.

 

[rustred]

Rebuilding an engine is rebuilding what is out of spec. Pulling an engine apart and cleaning bores and lapping valves is a long way from a rebuild. It’s called a patch job. Even installing rings and doing an actual true valve job is not a rebuilt engine. The head can be classed as rebuilt if it had everything back to spec. Rebuilt is starting from a bare block. Same as the rebuilders do. And for a novice this is good experience for you doing it your first time. Get some plastigauge and measure your rod clearances and post that. Hardly anybody has them machinist tools for measuring and this gives you experience on what u need for rod clearances and wear and compare to the new brgs. Same deal with rings by measuring ring end gap. Same with pistons and sleeves. Simple stuff for a novice. Plus read up on stuff. Lots to learn. It’s not just Pull an engine apart and put it back together without knowing what’s worn out what will work, what won’t work. Lots to go through , not saying everything has to be right at the new max and min spec’s , but you need to know on these old engines what will actually pass. They run a long time if not worked hard being worn out.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you can find the pistons you want , that's fine, but no need to kill yourself trying to raise the compression for the uses you have stated.

 

[Mrfred54]

With the tractor sitting for five years or so, I'd say that the front and rear crankshaft seals will fail. Hate to see you go thru all this work and you have oil leaks when finished

 

[grandpa Love]

With the tractor sitting for five years or so, I'd say that the front and rear crankshaft seals will fail. Hate to see you go thru all this work and you have oil leaks when finished

That would be an unusual failure. We have resurrected many, many tractors,some sat dead for 15-20 years. None ever had front or rear seals fail .

 

[wh]

With the tractor sitting for five years or so, I'd say that the front and rear crankshaft seals will fail. Hate to see you go thru all this work and you have oil leaks when finished

As slow as these engines run and as they are not going to make a 100 acre crop- I agree with grandpa love. Had n elderly neighbor years ago that ask dad and I to get his tractor running. Was a 1950 super a. He knew engine was stuck. We winched it on trailer and rolled it off in shop. Building it was in evidently had leaked down exhaust. And he had drained radiator to boot. Pulled head and pan. Took rods loose from crank. Turned crack away from pistons and found 2 that were stuck. Local good engine builder we used said to drive them out with wood block. It would either be ok or not. Cut a piece of round oak firewood to fit and did what he said. Cleaned everything up. Put it back together, filled with water (and found freeze plugs rust thru), cleaned plugs/points, fresh gas and fired it off. Ran fine. Fixed freeze plugs and carried it back to him. All he wanted was to hear it run.

 

[Mrfred54]

This is just a suggestion about the seals. Experience from long ago, friend wanted his grandpa's A overhauled, was froze up. Got is all done and sure enough, front seal was leaking . never got it out of the shop to replace front seal and thought, I might as well do the rear seal or he'll be back. SO I NEVER OVERHAUL, unless I do a complete job. No money in doing it twice. When doing it for yourself, I guess you can take that chance

 

[560Dennis]

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/pages/artint9/

Currently I have block still in the tractor. I have dropped the oil pan and removed the pistons. I took it apart further than I probably needed to. While it had been sitting over the last 5 years a tree branch fell and broke the muffler off so I was concerned there was rust/damage to the cylinder walls which is why I disassembled it as far as I did. This is also my first time rebuilding a motor.

 

[Janicholson]

Look at the situation as it is. Splitting the tractor requires substantial tools and experience for afety. it also often justifies putting in a new clutch kit. The front seal is removed after removing the front pulley (often very painful) and the front cover. More expense there!! If there is a clear leak of oil from tither location that amounts to dripping every second of operation, I would consider doing that end. If not make your choice based on end results. Jim

 

[560Dennis]

Here is a video on how this fellow rebuild a Farmall A you can follow along for ideas how to do it.

part one take down
Comes in three parts , take your time doing this it takes still takes time to adapt to your shop .