1550 Cockshutt pto

[ken golko]

Looking for some help in removing the clutch from a Cockshutt 1550 pro. How do I go about removing the piece with the bearing that engages the pto

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Which bearing? The one the fork or the one behind the clutch drum?

 

[ken golko]

Which bearing? The one the fork or the one behind the clutch drum?

The one on the fork.. I found online that I have to pull the whole pto assembly right out with the drive shaft to take this apart. That's a big job.

 

[rrlund]

The one on the fork.. I found online that I have to pull the whole pto assembly right out with the drive shaft to take this apart. That's a big job.

Not as big a job as you think. Take the three bolts out behind the clutch pack and pop that bearing housing out of the castings. You'll most likely have to put a bar behind the clutch pack. After it pops out, just pull the shaft and clutch out. If memory serves me right, the only obstacle from there is getting the snap ring off in front of the clutch.

 

[ken golko]

Not as big a job as you think. Take the three bolts out behind the clutch pack and pop that bearing housing out of the castings. You'll most likely have to put a bar behind the clutch pack. After it pops out, just pull the shaft and clutch out. If memory serves me right, the only obstacle from there is getting the snap ring off in front of the clutch.

So I still have to pull that assembly out of the tractor with the drive shaft before I can take the clutch pack off

 

[rrlund]

So I still have to pull that assembly out of the tractor with the drive shaft before I can take the clutch pack off

Hang on now. Don't you just take the 6 bolts out that have the shims behind them and the whole thing, including that throw out bearing, clide right off the back? It's been a few days since I've had to change any of those discs.

 

[ken golko]

Hang on now. Don't you just take the 6 bolts out that have the shims behind them and the whole thing, including that throw out bearing, clide right off the back? It's been a few days since I've had to change any of those discs.

This is as far as I’ve gone so far

 

[rrlund]

OK, take those six bolts out that hold the clutch pack together. The ones right at the top of the picture and at two other points, take either a half inch wrench or three eights, I don't remember. Just don't loose the shims between each point.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Exactly what are you trying to fix? The bearing, the clutches, what?

 

[ken golko]

Exactly what are you trying to fix? The bearing, the clutches, what?

Trying to get the clutches fixed. When I took the cover off there were pieces of rivets on the bottom of the cover

 

[tom upton]

I am pretty sure you need to pull the shaft and all. rrlund was right the first time he posted. Its not hard to pull the shaft out once you remove the retaining bolts in behind the clutch pack. I think I have a shop manual specificaly for 1550 but will have to wait till morning to go out and check . It will explain procedure better than I can to overhaul your clutch pac. Sounds like you are going to need a new set of clutch plates. The 1550, 1555, and maybe even the 1600 take same clutch plates as the 2 and 3 digit tractors. I believe there are 2 discs in there? 1650 and up are a totally different animal.

 

[ken golko]

I am pretty sure you need to pull the shaft and all. rrlund was right the first time he posted. Its not hard to pull the shaft out once you remove the retaining bolts in behind the clutch pack. I think I have a shop manual specificaly for 1550 but will have to wait till morning to go out and check . It will explain procedure better than I can to overhaul your clutch pac. Sounds like you are going to need a new set of clutch plates. The 1550, 1555, and maybe even the 1600 take same clutch plates as the 2 and 3 digit tractors. I believe there are 2 discs in there? 1650 and up are a totally different animal.

Yes, there are two clutch plates. I have a shop manual and it says to remove 7 cap screws to remove the pto assembly from the tractor. The pictures are pretty lousy so I've been holding off taking the back end apart as there are a lot of bolts there. I'd need an exploded view picture with the bolts pointed out that have to be removed.

 

[tom upton]

Yes, there are two clutch plates. I have a shop manual and it says to remove 7 cap screws to remove the pto assembly from the tractor. The pictures are pretty lousy so I've been holding off taking the back end apart as there are a lot of bolts there. I'd need an exploded view picture with the bolts pointed out that have to be removed.

No worries will get you something in the morning.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Yes, there are two clutch plates. I have a shop manual and it says to remove 7 cap screws to remove the pto assembly from the tractor. The pictures are pretty lousy so I've been holding off taking the back end apart as there are a lot of bolts there. I'd need an exploded view picture with the bolts pointed out that have to be removed.

If you're just going to replace the clutch plates just take off the cover, the pressure plate stays with it. There are two discs and a plate between them. Three tiny springs keep everything separated when disengaged. Mine had a lot of damage, splines were wallowed out, the middle plate was blued and warped, and the springs were broken. If you have to take the whole clutch out remove the three bolts and pry the clutch till the bearing pops free. The whole shaft will come out with it, all six feet of it. There are splines at the flywheel end and for the hydraulic pump. Pull it two or three feet out, turn and pull lightly till the splines line up. Same thing going back in but you have to do that twice. Turn a bit and push, you will feel it go. I'll get a picture scanned of the parts page tomorrow.

 

[rrlund]

I am pretty sure you need to pull the shaft and all. rrlund was right the first time he posted. Its not hard to pull the shaft out once you remove the retaining bolts in behind the clutch pack. I think I have a shop manual specificaly for 1550 but will have to wait till morning to go out and check . It will explain procedure better than I can to overhaul your clutch pac. Sounds like you are going to need a new set of clutch plates. The 1550, 1555, and maybe even the 1600 take same clutch plates as the 2 and 3 digit tractors. I believe there are 2 discs in there? 1650 and up are a totally different animal.

I don't know Tom, I'm more inclined to think I was right the second time. You have to pull the shaft and slide the whole clutch pack forward after removing a snap ring to take the whole thing off the shaft, but I think the pressure plate comes apart with those six bolts so you can change the clutch plates with it right in the tractor.

 

[tom upton]

I don't know Tom, I'm more inclined to think I was right the second time. You have to pull the shaft and slide the whole clutch pack forward after removing a snap ring to take the whole thing off the shaft, but I think the pressure plate comes apart with those six bolts so you can change the clutch plates with it right in the tractor.

Yes you are correct. I took a look just now and clutch discs can be done without removing shaft. I should have known this as just did my 1550 a year or so ago. I think I pulled shaft maybe just to check out drive splines?? Will leave it to Mike to set OP straight.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

First two images are left and right sides of the same page. Third is the clutch detail. Been over ten years since I got this thing and couldn't remember details. If you take the cover off with the six screws/shims (item 9) the other half of the drum (25) can come off the flange without disturbing the oiled parts inside the case. If you take apart the pressure plate, #13 is a spring washer, #8 snap ring has a taper and only goes on one way to the groove in #14.

 

[rrlund]

Yes you are correct. I took a look just now and clutch discs can be done without removing shaft. I should have known this as just did my 1550 a year or so ago. I think I pulled shaft maybe just to check out drive splines?? Will leave it to Mike to set OP straight.

Ya, that's the Dickens of it. You start working on these things in your teens and have them around all your life, but these old ones get used less and less while you farm with the newer ones and next thing you know, you're in your seventys and it's been fifty years since you've done these things to the older ones.

 

[scootergmc]

If I was in there that far already I would just go ahead and pull the whole assembly and shaft, and reseal/bearing the gearbox too. That drawbar looks plenty wet below and if the outer bearing needs replaced, well, one can only assume the rest is due as well.

To answer the original question though, as for what I remember, the shaft does not need to be removed for OP to complete his original job.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

Ya, that's the Dickens of it. You start working on these things in your teens and have them around all your life, but these old ones get used less and less while you farm with the newer ones and next thing you know, you're in your seventys and it's been fifty years since you've done these things to the older ones.

Got that but I was in my 60s and my first experience with anything Oliver. Fortunately the OP had the dealer parts manual and the I&T. I used to remember things like tire pressures, mileage for oil changes and when I did brakes and other maintenance.. 77 in a couple of weeks and I don't seem to remember much of anything. I drained the main case yesterday and going to dive into the brake seal this afternoon. I talked to Smitty last week about the bull pinion shaft, he has one if I need it but said they rarely go bad. It needs manifolds too but I "forgot" to ask about that.