How to secure empty hitch?

[osweetman]

This seems like a really basic question but I haven't found any good answers yet. When driving a tractor that has an empty hitch, how do people secure the lift arms from swinging into the tires, along with stabilizer bars? I figure I'll just buy a couple implement pins (aka draw pins) for this purpose, but maybe there's a better solution?

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Big bunji cord. Or however you spell it

 

[old]

This seems like a really basic question but I haven't found any good answers yet. When driving a tractor that has an empty hitch, how do people secure the lift arms from swinging into the tires, along with stabilizer bars? I figure I'll just buy a couple implement pins (aka draw pins) for this purpose, but maybe there's a better solution?

Most tractors I have seen have stay chains that keep that from happening.

 

[osweetman]

Big bunji cord. Or however you spell it

That's a good idea, I suppose a ratchet or cam strap would work too. I'll try that the next time I drive the tractor.

 

[rrlund]

Olivers and Whites have a tab welded on each arm, then there's a real stout spring that holds them together. I used a 3pt drawbar to hold them together on my 4040 Deere. A rubber strap isn't stout enough for heavy arms. My biggest White doesn't have the tabs, so when the quick hitch isn't on it, I use a small ratchet strap around the links between the rock shaft arms and the lift arms so it's positioned where it dosn't interfere with the PTO or remotes.

 

[osweetman]

Most tractors I have seen have stay chains that keep that from happening.

That's true, but I also wanna secure the stabilizer bars

 

[Steve in VA]

Big bunji cord. Or however you spell it

That's how I do ot.

 

[Jim in LA]

That's a good idea, I suppose a ratchet or cam strap would work too. I'll try that the next time I drive the tractor.

I had a 3005 John Deere that had long coil spring with hooks on each end that held the links in. My Kubota came with a foot long rubber strap with hooks.

 

[Scott 730]

Quick hitch is on my 4020 24/7/365.

 

[Tim in New York]

get a 3pt drawbar.

 

[DeltaRed]

bungie cord;baler twine/wire;small chain;rope........

 

[Ray,IN]

That's true, but I also wanna secure the stabilizer bars

Then simply set the stabilizer bars to their longest setting, unless they are the non-adjustable flat bars. Those are fastened under the axle with clinch pins. Remove the pin, remove the bars, then use a bungee cord to hold the lift arms to their narrowest. OR buy a standard drawbar for a 3-pt hitch to hold everything together at the same time.

 

[MarkB_MI]

If your check chains are broken or missing, fix them. Or install stabilizer bars. Or do both.

YT sells check chain kits for Fords. I dunno about other brands.

(A note about the above kit, which I bought from Stein-er, not YT: I ended up using only two of the clevises and one of the pins. The clevises are much thicker than OEM and I reused the two OEM clevises I had. The chains are too short for a row crop tractor. I didn't need the brackets, as I have a factory swinging drawbar; the chains attach to the drawbar guide. And although the pins are fine, I was replacing the OEM row crop leveling box on my four-cylinder row crop Ford with one for a three cylinder tractor. The pins are too short for the three cylinder leveling box. More about this conversion HERE.)

 

[John in MD]

I've got a JD 4440 that still has the factory spring between the arms, or just use a bungy or baler twine, what ever is handy.

 

[deere4040]

Bungee cord on all mine. Includes 4430/4040/2350.

Heavy duty 21” 2 per tractor. Holds the arms solid whether in cat 1 or 2 setting. Easy to take off and store in toolbox.

Twine is a pain and never used. Ratchet strap is cumbersome and tail if not stored properly for the pto to catch. 3pt drawbar a pain, expensive, and isnt adjustable pending setting.

 

[Jim.ME]

That's true, but I also wanna secure the stabilizer bars

How about a picture of or hitch area? You have not told what tractor you have that might help.

If you have the type stabilizer bars that pin under the axle and to the implement pins. The easiest the may be just pins holding them to the implement ends of the lift arms, which should keep them away from the wheels.

Some lift arms have holes, a few inches forward of the ball ends to allow connecting the stabilizer bars. Those types can stay on all the time as they don’t connect to the lift points.

 

[Ozlander]

Bungee cord on all mine. Includes 4430/4040/2350.

Heavy duty 21” 2 per tractor. Holds the arms solid whether in cat 1 or 2 setting. Easy to take off and store in toolbox.

Twine is a pain and never used. Ratchet strap is cumbersome and tail if not stored properly for the pto to catch. 3pt drawbar a pain, expensive, and isnt adjustable pending setting.

You've got a John Deere tractor and you think a 3pt drawbar is expensive???

 

[deere4040]

You've got a John Deere tractor and you think a 3pt drawbar is expensive???

For the purpose stated here yes.

All equipment is expensive. But if you must know it is considerably cheaper to maintain my JD over my NH.

And not “a” JD. 5 JD, 1 NH, 1 IH. 55hp-180

 

[osweetman]

Bungee cord on all mine. Includes 4430/4040/2350.

Heavy duty 21” 2 per tractor. Holds the arms solid whether in cat 1 or 2 setting. Easy to take off and store in toolbox.

Twine is a pain and never used. Ratchet strap is cumbersome and tail if not stored properly for the pto to catch. 3pt drawbar a pain, expensive, and isnt adjustable pending setting.

I just tried my heaviest-duty bungee (solid rubber strap) and I think the hooks are too small, they work but barely catch the ball after going through the stabilizer bar so maybe I'll try to adapt one with bigger hooks. Or go back to my original plan of just buying a couple draw pins.

 

[osweetman]

How about a picture of or hitch area? You have not told what tractor you have that might help.

If you have the type stabilizer bars that pin under the axle and to the implement pins. The easiest the may be just pins holding them to the implement ends of the lift arms, which should keep them away from the wheels.

Some lift arms have holes, a few inches forward of the ball ends to allow connecting the stabilizer bars. Those types can stay on all the time as they don’t connect to the lift points.

1959 Ford 641 - it just has solid stabilizer bars, and nothing on them or the lift arms to secure them when the hitch is empty.