Pulling a 706 Diesel questions?

You asked about the 7” high adaptor. The drawbar is only 13” to top on his 706D. I have to raise it 7” to meet the last pulls requirement of 20”…. Am I getting this wrong. The sleds chain is anchored at the sleds bottom and not very long at all by the time you hook it up at 20” where from my experience puts a dynamic force downward on a farm tractor drawbar and the designed pulling hitch which on his last one I removed the ‘roller’ off the drawbar he bought for just pulling and used grade 8 -3/4” bolts through the existing drawbar holes and 3/4” on the entire hitch. A zillion times more structural stress than the toughest implement you would ever do field work with, concidering he had to pull in the farm tractor class, even though it’s a 50+ year old tractor. What is usually the age limit to be concidered antique class? *Just trying to figure it out on how to compete with newer more advanced tractors if that is the way the rules go.
I should have said closer to 63 years old but not able to pull in the antique class! Really only 10 years difference between the 706D and my other Grandsons WD 45 which can always pull in antique. Why should the weigh class, not he age, define what is antique or not, I guess is what my question is to you guys that know?
 
I should have said closer to 63 years old but not able to pull in the antique class! Really only 10 years difference between the 706D and my other Grandsons WD 45 which can always pull in antique. Why should the weigh class, not he age, define what is antique or not, I guess is what my question is to you guys that know?
Generally to be considered antique tractor needs to be 1959 or older. 1960 was I guess you could say a pivotal year for tractors of the more common makes. For example Deere came out with there 6 cylinder .
 
Generally to be considered antique tractor needs to be 1959 or older. 1960 was I guess you could say a pivotal year for tractors of the more common makes. For example Deere came out with there 6 cylinder .
Well that clears it up, 4 years to new🥹😎. They finished the 720 Gas project a few days ago (hadn’t run for 20-30 years) but I don’t believe he’ll pull it this year or even if that is what he has planned. It sounds good, the old JD pop pop pop pop sound. We had a neighbor who farmed with a couple 2 cyl growing up. He Would start early and clean barn first so if I was still coonhunting at 4 AM near him the familiar sound brings back fond memories of days gone by, so I was glad to hear it run.

Both my Grandsons are highly motivated, this on 19 yrs old, is a heavy equipment operator which he went to work the same summer he graduated two summers ago. Tractors and hunting are what he does for fun. My younger Grandson with the 2 Allis Chalmers is just 17 and working on his industrial electrician degree. I am proud of both of them!
 
Well that clears it up, 4 years to new🥹😎. They finished the 720 Gas project a few days ago (hadn’t run for 20-30 years) but I don’t believe he’ll pull it this year or even if that is what he has planned. It sounds good, the old JD pop pop pop pop sound. We had a neighbor who farmed with a couple 2 cyl growing up. He Would start early and clean barn first so if I was still coonhunting at 4 AM near him the familiar sound brings back fond memories of days gone by, so I was glad to hear it run.

Both my Grandsons are highly motivated, this on 19 yrs old, is a heavy equipment operator which he went to work the same summer he graduated two summers ago. Tractors and hunting are what he does for fun. My younger Grandson with the 2 Allis Chalmers is just 17 and working on his industrial electrician degree. I am proud of both of them!
I think younger persons getting into pulling is great. Keeps them occupied and maybe out of trouble doing something less honourable? My Dad started our family tradition of tractor pulling several decades ago. He farmed full time his whole life and was the only real hobby he really got into. One of his wishes before he left this world was to see his grandson pulling and that he did. They both pulled on the same track. Dad on his 880 wheatland and grandson Josh on his 880 rowcrop. The pulls we go to are a great social event, and a great way to spend quality time with your family.
 
706D ADJUSTABLE PULLING HITCH IDEAS NEEDED!

Being new to pulling and started out pulling WC Alliss’ I fabber the 706D hitch at 18” but appears it is 10 years newer than the Allis and needs pulled in either the 9000 or 9500 Farm Class with a 20” height set. I sure could use any pics, drawings and advice of a Simple change design as some of the sanctioned pulls still are 18”. Not sure which ones or why. I included a couple pics of the first one I fabber out of 5/16 walled 3” cold rolled square tube, 1” cold rolled hooking plate all assembled with grade 8 and 3/4” bolts.As you can see i didn’t take a quick change adjustment in mind🙁. We are told that you can’t use draw pins or any pins that it all must be bolted solid. 😜 quite different than what I see hook and pull through the antique classes. Advice and ideas very much appreciated.
THANKS
 

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If you have rules in that case . If the event has rules.
I’m just suggesting get the d ring in closer to the axles .

I’m noticing the draw bar is bending down . It will break so .
Better get wheelie bars , kill switch , dot helmet , and beefed up hitch . Safety first.
 
Do you have adjustable bolts under the hook paddle to hold it at the set height? Around here there is no set minimum height but there is a maximum . 20 inches is the normal for everything except pure stock. Any thing lower is a disadvantage to you. 2 adjusters under the paddle to hold it up and one on top to hold it down. We don't allow for floating hitches and they will get you kicked out of a pull real fast. Also the farthest hook point in the paddle hole has to be no less than 18 inches from the rear axle. from your pictures your putting all the down force on the drawbar with is not good. Here are a couple examples of an IH hitch.
 

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If you have rules in that case . If the event has rules.
I’m just suggesting get the d ring in closer to the axles .

I’m noticing the draw bar is bending down . It will break so .
Better get wheelie bars , kill switch , dot helmet , and beefed up hitch . Safety first.
I appreciate your suggestions. Drawbar appearing bent is just the camera angle but yes it is possible to move the hit hitch 7” max closer to the axel d/t the power take off shaft and hookers grown on the shaft getting in the way when dropping the hook though. It really is beefier apparently than it seems, you couldn’t damage it if you hooked a D8 to it, the O.E.M. Pin under the tractor holding the drawbar on is the weak link in the design. Looking for your ideas on 1 drawbar with “quick change” from 18” to 20”. The 706D has a factory kill switch cause you slam the throttle over and it shuts off the tractor which is honestly the Kill Switch on his desire, clutch should bring your front end down too at 3-5 mph 🤠. Seriously pulling 9000 -9500# farm class ( unmodified or nor super class) many of the superclass safety aspects probably would be over kill with the 706D. We are new to this but after watching all tractors up to that class for the last 3 years since my other Grandson started pulling his Allis WD and WD 45, I’ve maybe watched 4-500 tractors pull & I have only seen two tractor with wheely bars and are seriously a good idea, but yes we want to keep it a safe sport 👍. About 55 years ago, (our Ag class went to Farm Fest) I was watching the “World Pull” I think they called it MAYBE in Crystal Lake, MN at FARM FEST, when a tractor with FOUR 350 Chevy engines came apart and a flywheel went into the crowd so ya, crap can happen. The frame on those 4 engine tractor, I REMEMBER the day yet, could be seen to visible twist. My Grandson wants to keep everything stock and a sled pull to me is about like dropping 6-16 plows into ‘the sand turning into clay’. I could be wrong for sure. From working farms like I did growing up but not pulling that is what flashes through my mind as I watch these pulls, I don’t know. Always willing to listen to advice to get more out of that Farmall😬. Toughest competitors in that class are the 4010 JD and a big older Minni- I don’t REMEBER the size. My Grandson is a Heavy Equipment Operator so…he does wear ear plugs 🫣. Thanks for the feedback. Adjustable and sensible hitch is my inherited project. One more local pull this fall yet.
Sorry for running on, Thanks for your help! HAVE A GREAT DAY!
 
Do you have adjustable bolts under the hook paddle to hold it at the set height? Around here there is no set minimum height but there is a maximum . 20 inches is the normal for everything except pure stock. Any thing lower is a disadvantage to you. 2 adjusters under the paddle to hold it up and one on top to hold it down. We don't allow for floating hitches and they will get you kicked out of a pull real fast. Also the farthest hook point in the paddle hole has to be no less than 18 inches from the rear axle. from your pictures your putting all the down force on the drawbar with is not good. Here are a couple examples of an IH hitch.
I like these designs, never saw any that fancy up to the farm tractor class. From what it looks like from the photos is you eliminate the draw bar. I like these designs way you have the fully threaded bolts to lock your hieght in. According to the last inspector we had ‘everything had to be bolted solid’ so what design is your pivot out is the only quedrltion I have, looks sharp and well fabricated. There looks like 4 bolts that hold it to the tractors rear drive, what diameter are those. How much of the torque are these smaller bolts responsible for? Thanks
 
Do you have adjustable bolts under the hook paddle to hold it at the set height? Around here there is no set minimum height but there is a maximum . 20 inches is the normal for everything except pure stock. Any thing lower is a disadvantage to you. 2 adjusters under the paddle to hold it up and one on top to hold it down. We don't allow for floating hitches and they will get you kicked out of a pull real fast. Also the farthest hook point in the paddle hole has to be no less than 18 inches from the rear axle. from your pictures your putting all the down force on the drawbar with is not good. Here are a couple examples of an IH hitch.
Ya it could be shortened 7” keeping it pretty much stock yet and nothing is floating (the rules here too) everything bolted plate surface to plate surface with 3/4” dia grade 8 bolts…. It’s just absolutely not adjustable that’s my problem. This drawbar he bought only for pulling and I suggested buying one more and we would build it at 20” so he would be set were ever he went and stay a theoretically ‘original’ tractor. I was a metal fabber many years for the government and a high labor and high material hitch for only 2 different hieght he will be needing may be over kill, which I have been accused of doing. I only had a short while to make the 18” high hitch. We have no min distance for the hooking hole, just have to be able to not have the PTO shaft get in the way and he is not going to remove his PTO for any reason as some proffesionally type pullers do. Thanks a bunch and have a Great Day my freind!
 
Ya it could be shortened 7” keeping it pretty much stock yet and nothing is floating (the rules here too) everything bolted plate surface to plate surface with 3/4” dia grade 8 bolts…. It’s just absolutely not adjustable that’s my problem. This drawbar he bought only for pulling and I suggested buying one more and we would build it at 20” so he would be set were ever he went and stay a theoretically ‘original’ tractor. I was a metal fabber many years for the government and a high labor and high material hitch for only 2 different hieght he will be needing may be over kill, which I have been accused of doing. I only had a short while to make the 18” high hitch. We have no min distance for the hooking hole, just have to be able to not have the PTO shaft get in the way and he is not going to remove his PTO for any reason as some proffesionally type pullers do. Thanks a bunch and have a Great Day my freind!
Problem is with your design there is no adjustability in it. Not only for going from 18 to 20 inch height but also how you place your weights can change that so you need the adjusters. Pull across a scale without checking your hitch height around here will get you in trouble in a hurry. There is usually somebody at the scale to do the checking so everyone is equal and playing fair.
 
@MSD take a fella used to division 2 with 18" hitch and watch them step up and play with div 3 with their hitch up top 20, man its funny how high the nose gets, lol, you probably know one guy from my club that did it, Mark Mcvay, he was way nose light and all he could see was the pretty blue sky at about half track. It's crazy how just your tire squish from adding more weight can shorten your hitch and it makes a huge difference in how you hook, that half inch can make or break a hook!
 
@MSD take a fella used to division 2 with 18" hitch and watch them step up and play with div 3 with their hitch up top 20, man its funny how high the nose gets, lol, you probably know one guy from my club that did it, Mark Mcvay, he was way nose light and all he could see was the pretty blue sky at about half track. It's crazy how just your tire squish from adding more weight can shorten your hitch and it makes a huge difference in how you hook, that half inch can make or break a hook!
Heard that a 1/2" is like a 400 lb difference. Don't know if it is true or not.
 
Ya you are right. I built it well but out of ignorance at the time. Ya, tire pressure and changing if from 9000 to 9500# farm really did effect the height. It concerns me some at a full length draw bar, shortened not so much, 2 1/2 X 1 1/2 cold rolled steel takes a great deal of stress in a short length and the from bar attachment connects so it raises the hitch end and can be shimmed enough to make up the difference for now (one last pull) but NO THAT IS NOT RIGHT. Some serious pullers remove the pto shaft and fabricate a hitch to a dedicated pulling tractor but he is not going to modify his 706 as he uses implements for different things. We are not shooting for the Nationals, 99% of the pullers in the area aren’t but I have to figure a way that covers the things you brought up that it can be adjusted an inch up or down would do it. May be a surprise but using shims on antique and collectible tractors around here is really common, just not spoke about. I wanna get away from that for sure. You bring up good points and we are slowly catching on as we go. Next one for next year is what to make on his 720 jd GAS 🥹. Ain’t even scoped that one out 😞 THANKS AGAIN
 
Do you have adjustable bolts under the hook paddle to hold it at the set height? Around here there is no set minimum height but there is a maximum . 20 inches is the normal for everything except pure stock. Any thing lower is a disadvantage to you. 2 adjusters under the paddle to hold it up and one on top to hold it down. We don't allow for floating hitches and they will get you kicked out of a pull real fast. Also the farthest hook point in the paddle hole has to be no less than 18 inches from the rear axle. from your pictures your putting all the down force on the drawbar with is not good. Here are a couple examples of an IH hitch.

Heard that a 1/2" is like a 400 lb difference. Don't know if it is true or not.
interesting
 
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