Cub electronic ignition conversion but non Pertronix kit.

[John in ND]

I have a 53 Cub. A few years ago I did a 12 volt conversion. I ordered a generic electronic ignition conversion kit (not Pertronix).
It came with zero instructions, but I watched some videos on YouTube.
I removed the points and condenser. The new module plate looks like it would fit in the old points and condenser holes, but the stud that the points would slide on is in the way.
The Pertronix videos show their kit clears that stud in case you ever want to return it to points.
Has anyone ran into this? Did you have to remove that stud?
I know I should have probably went with genuine Pertronix. But at half the price I thought I'd give it a shot.

 

[Jim Becker]

My first thought is to rotate the bracket until the stud is about centered in the open section of the bracket. Then drill new holes in the bracket that line up with the existing threaded holes. A second idea, can you relocate the holes by flipping the bracket other side up and attaching the pickup on the other side?

 

[used red MN]

My first thought is to rotate the bracket until the stud is about centered in the open section of the bracket. Then drill new holes in the bracket that line up with the existing threaded holes.

You have to keep in mind that the pickup coil has to trigger the spark to occur within a reasonable amount of degrees from the position it was fired by the points. This is needed so the spark can transfer across from the rotor tip to the dist. cap terminal within the prescribed degrees of rotation where alignment occurs. Moving it around willy/nilly may not work.

A second idea, can you relocate the holes by flipping the bracket other side up and attaching the pickup on the other side?

This may be the answer, if pre-assembled this may be a case of “the land of almost right” strikes again.

 

[John in ND]

My first thought is to rotate the bracket until the stud is about centered in the open section of the bracket. Then drill new holes in the bracket that line up with the existing threaded holes. A second idea, can you relocate the holes by flipping the bracket other side up and attaching

You have to keep in mind that the pickup coil has to trigger the spark to occur within a reasonable amount of degrees from the position it was fired by the points. This is needed so the spark can transfer across from the rotor tip to the dist. cap terminal within the prescribed degrees of rotation where alignment occurs. Moving it around willy/nilly may not work.


This may be the answer, if pre-assembled this may be a case of “the land of almost right” strikes again.

I agree about redrilling the holes. I don't think i could re-drill the holes with the absolute precision needed to make this work properly.
I wrote to the seller and asked what I should do to make this work. If I don't get a reply by tomorrow, I'll report them to Ebay for selling a cheap imitation and leave negative feedback.
I have a feeling the only way to make this work is to remove that points stud. And I'm not comfortable doing that.

 

[300guy]

I would not drill or do anything to change the Pertronix system or the warranty is void. The sensor bracket should fit right in the distributor. The pictures show it should sit in there and the 2 screw holes line up with the holes in the distributor base. I have had 2 of these systems and the first one lasted 12 years. The second one lasted about a month. I previously thought the system was fabulous!!! Since last fall I have gone back to the points and condenser and will NEVER use a Pertronix again!!!!!!!

 

[Jim.ME]

I would not drill or do anything to change the Pertronix system or the warranty is void. The sensor bracket should fit right in the distributor. The pictures show it should sit in there and the 2 screw holes line up with the holes in the distributor base. I have had 2 of these systems and the first one lasted 12 years. The second one lasted about a month. I previously thought the system was fabulous!!! Since last fall I have gone back to the points and condenser and will NEVER use a Pertronix again!!!!!!!

In his first post of the thread he posted it was not a Pertronix unit,it was a generic EI unit, at about half the price of Pertronix

 

[John in ND]

I would not drill or do anything to change the Pertronix system or the warranty is void. The sensor bracket should fit right in the distributor. The pictures show it should sit in there and the 2 screw holes line up with the holes in the distributor base. I have had 2 of these systems and the first one lasted 12 years. The second one lasted about a month. I previously thought the system was fabulous!!! Since last fall I have gone back to the points and condenser and will NEVER use a Pertronix again!!!!!!!

I think this would line up perfectly with the holes as you said. Except the stud or post that the points previously rode on is in the way.
And this isn't a true Pertronix kit. Honestly I think it's a cheap Chinese knock-off. I actually have two Pertronix kits in other tractors that work great. But they are getting so expensive I tried this one for half the price.

 

[used red MN]

A second idea, can you relocate the holes by flipping the bracket other side up and attaching the pickup on the other side?

Thinking more about this, taking into account if you could measure the location close enough to determine where the pickup coil will be mounted as you assume the manufacturer intended where the pin is at. The pickup coil will also fire properly if mounted 180 or 90 degree position if it is mounted a reasonable amount of degrees of tolerance from where it would mount by the manufacturers design. Not sure if this makes sense. Bottom line is that moving the location of the pickup coil on that plate is a pretty high level modification.

Edit to correct minor grammatical errors.

 

[John in ND]

Thinking more about this, taking into account the if you could measure close enough to determine where the pickup coil will be mounted as you assume the manufacturer intended where the pin is at. The pickup coil will also fire properly if mounted 180 or 90 degree position if it is mounted a reasonable amount of degrees of tolerance from where it would mount by the manufacturers design. Not sure if this makes sense. Bottom line is that moving the location of the pickup coil on that plate is a pretty high level modification.

I agree completely. That would require surgical precision to work. I'm not that good lol.

 

[Jim Becker]

Thinking more about this, taking into account if you could measure the location close enough to determine where the pickup coil will be mounted as you assume the manufacturer intended where the pin is at. The pickup coil will also fire properly if mounted 180 or 90 degree position if it is mounted a reasonable amount of degrees of tolerance from where it would mount by the manufacturers design. Not sure if this makes sense. Bottom line is that moving the location of the pickup coil on that plate is a pretty high level modification.

Edit to correct minor grammatical errors.

There is a lot of room to rotate the distributor to adjust the timing. You can also pull the distributor out and turn the shaft to engage the drive gear in any position. So, the pickup coil can be positioned anywhere around the full circle of the distributor and the timing set with no added difficulty. I also suspect the positioning of the pickup coil isn't nearly as precise as everyone is assuming. It probably just needs to be as close to the rotating magnet as it can be reasonably set but far enough away to keep the magnet from whacking it.