Trailer wiring

504

Well-known Member
I am finally getting around to mounting the wench on my flat bed. THe question is should I have a switch between the power(12V) and the battery? 12V is the charging circuit for the battery. 7 wire standard hookup. We never had sons but 8 grandsons are catching up with me. Grandpa can I use the trailer ,sure. It came back with a broken tail light lens,(ok) two weeks later can I use the trailer gain? Sure,this time it came back with the wires hanging from the marker lights and a single out. I have a new set of lights setting on the table right now. The last set made it a year,maybe two. I have never wired for battery charging before,just lights and brakes.
 
I would install an on/off switch of the size to carry the maximum current of the winch motor current draw, and fused.
When the trailer comes back needing attention, ask the driver to stay and help with repairs.
 
Are you asking whether to put a switch between 12v supply coming out of the truck to trailer battery or from a Battery on trailer to winch? OR are you trying to run winch off of the 12v coming from truck battery through 7 pin connector?
 
Any time I'm running a heavy-gauge wire off a battery to a winch, I protect the circuit with a marine-type circuit breaker, something like this one:

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It will also function as a switch, although it's not made for repetitive cycling, but it will shut the circuit down if a wire gets pinched or cut and then grounded. A grounded 1/0 wire attached to a big battery will cause some fireworks with no protection!
 
Any time I'm running a heavy-gauge wire off a battery to a winch, I protect the circuit with a marine-type circuit breaker, something like this one:

View attachment 164631

It will also function as a switch, although it's not made for repetitive cycling, but it will shut the circuit down if a wire gets pinched or cut and then grounded. A grounded 1/0 wire attached to a big battery will cause some fireworks with no protection!
We use those on the electric/over hyd snow plow set ups at work. Lots of dump trucks use that to protect the tarp motor. That would work great.
 
You're talking about the 12v aux power in the 7 pin connector from what I read and you have a battery on the trailer for the winch is that correct? I don't have any switch and the circuit is fused on the truck, or it should be unless someone rigged it direct. My chevy is hot all of the time and my Ford has to have the ignition in the run position to have power back there.
As far as the lights and wires go best to make a protector from metal around any lights and all wiring needs to be secured so it doesn't get hung on anything and ripped out. Best to run wires through a piece of conduit, plastic pipe works well.
 
It's best to disable charge circuit from truck to prevent overload while operating winch. My dump trailer disconnects automatically when motor is activated. Some people run battery cable from truck battery to trailer battery which imo overkill.
 
K'kins works in the oil patch.

They regularly put cut out switches on their winch trucks...........and all others.

About maybe 12 years ago, one of the drivers didn't throw the switch at the end of the day, and the fire from a short, burned two trucks literally to the ground. Total loss....................two tandem axle roustabout winch trucks..........you go figure what they were worth. 80's model KW's, gin poles, full roller bed, and Tulsa winch.........a pricey fire.

Also.............on a computerized car/truck you want a cutout switch to keep the puter from draining the battery if the vehicle sits for a long time. This depends on whether the puter has a KAL. Some do, some don't. But most will run funny for a while until the puter relearns the parameters. But, it beats replacing batteries.

I have no idea whether modern vehicles, less than a few years old, can have the power cut.............some might know. I do know that the old plug 'n play PCM's didn't need constant power.

Anyways, high amp cable shouldn't be left powered up.
 
During one of our wildfires, K'kins boss let us use one of the tank trucks. They filled it with water, and one of the guys dropped it off at the front gate. It helped save our place.

Later that evening, we spotted a hot spot up the highway.........our side of the road. We took the truck out there to douse it. On the way, there was a short somewhere under the frame. If there wasn't a cutout switch, the doggone thing woulda caught fire on the highway.
 
Regarding your wiring on the trailer coming back damaged........................

I know the horse has already left the barn, but.................................................

When I build, I armor the complete electrical system. Nothing is left exposed to catch on brush, or collect ice, and get torn off.

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My tail lights are completely enclosed in boxes. No exposed wiring.

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The light is recessed, further protecting it from impact.

armored lights3.jpg

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Every circuit at the rear of the trailer is either boxed in, or in conduit.

armored lights7.jpg

Any major feeder cables are held in place by a very stout compression clamp. They can't move, or get pulled loose.

While it may add to the cost, and eat up labor..............it's cheap insurance in the long run.
 
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