Ferguson 30 ignition system testing order

JavierG

Member
I bought a 6v Ferguson TO30. The guy I bought it from said the tractor was running fine then one day would start and shutoff like it was flooding out. He showed me a video of it working perfectly with a small disc. He got it to turn over by hooking up jumper cables from his 12v pickup directly to the starter cuz he felt the starter switch was no good.

When I got it home I rewired the whole thing using advice from one of yesterdaystractors contributors. It was easy, and fun! I got a new starter switch because the old one was bad and put that in. Installed a new sediment bowl assembly because the old one wouldnt shutoff completely and of course, a new 6v battery.

Then I went to start it. Nothin.

I got a tester light.

Tested the ignition switch. Lights up on both sides.
Tested the starter switch which lights up on both sides when I put the shifter in the S position.

Tested the cable that goes from the starter switch to the starter. It lights up.

I checked the small wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. No light at either end.

Beyond this I dont know what to check or how to check it being as I'm not a mechanic at all. I'd like to know what the sequence is for checking the ignition system step by step. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 
Jim I thought you were talking about my jumper cables but you are talking about the battery cables on my tractor. Those cables and the one from the switch to the starter came with the tractor. I'll find some 1/0 like you said. Saw Rons picture and it dawned on me. Thanks again.
I was referring to the cable end connected to the starter stud. It appears to be a very poorly crimped end and appears to have been heating (sign of high resistance) in the past.

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Those details will prove crucial to me going forward. Thanks for the eagle eye Jim. I'm really enjoying learning about these old tractors. I cant wait to get this one going so i can get another one.
 
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If you have a good 12 volt battery, a quick way to test the starter is to hook a jumper cable from the +ve of the battery to a large bolt on the engine. Remember 6 volt systems are +ve ground. Then, with transmission in neutral, quickly touch the jumper from the battery -ve terminal to the bolt on the starter. It will not hurt the starter to do it in bursts of a few seconds. If the starter turns over, the starter is good and you need to look at the cables.
Did exactly what you said Ron. Got absolutely nothing when I did this. No spark no smoke no buzz no nothin. I will be taking the starter off next and taking it to be tested and rebuilt. There's a place nearby the NAPA boys recommended. Thanks again.
If you have a good 12 volt battery, a quick way to test the starter is to hook a jumper cable from the +ve of the battery to a large bolt on the engine. Remember 6 volt systems are +ve ground. Then, with transmission in neutral, quickly touch the jumper from the battery -ve terminal to the bolt on the starter. It will not hurt the starter to do it in bursts of a few seconds. If the starter turns over, the starter is good and you need to look at the cables.
 
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Your picture shows the positive battery cable is connected to the engine block flange right below the starter, that is good.

The end of the battery cvable that is connected to the starter stud appears to be a very poor connection, that needs to be fixed/replaced.

For a 6-volt system 1/0 battery cables are best. It may be the pictures, but your cables appear to be smaller gauges than that. Many over the counter premade cables for 12-volt cars are only 4 gauge, some maybe 2.

And I agree the starter needs to be looked at if it won't try to turn with the booster cables hooked up.
 

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6 gauge is way to small for good 6 volt starting.

The bigger the number the smaller the cable. 6 gauge is much smaller than 1/0 gauge. See the chart below.

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It is 4 times bigger. Great info Jim. Thanks again!
It is not uncommon that those cables have to be made to the length you need with the ends you want. Some parts stores will make them some don't. A truck shop or dealer should be able to make them. That size would apply to all the battery cables on your tractor. Every undersize one is a "restriction".
 
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Here is a pic of my battery cable. 2 gauge is what it says. I will get these cables made somewhere as well. Thanks again for the advice and the patience for a guy who knows next to nothing about fixing stuff. You've been a great help. May God bless you sir.
 
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