Ferguson 30 ignition system testing order

[JavierG]

I bought a 6v Ferguson TO30. The guy I bought it from said the tractor was running fine then one day would start and shutoff like it was flooding out. He showed me a video of it working perfectly with a small disc. He got it to turn over by hooking up jumper cables from his 12v pickup directly to the starter cuz he felt the starter switch was no good.

When I got it home I rewired the whole thing using advice from one of yesterdaystractors contributors. It was easy, and fun! I got a new starter switch because the old one was bad and put that in. Installed a new sediment bowl assembly because the old one wouldnt shutoff completely and of course, a new 6v battery.

Then I went to start it. Nothin.

I got a tester light.

Tested the ignition switch. Lights up on both sides.
Tested the starter switch which lights up on both sides when I put the shifter in the S position.

Tested the cable that goes from the starter switch to the starter. It lights up.

I checked the small wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. No light at either end.

Beyond this I dont know what to check or how to check it being as I'm not a mechanic at all. I'd like to know what the sequence is for checking the ignition system step by step. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi Javier, welcome to the forum. First thing, when you say you tried to start it and got "Nothing". Does that mean it wont turn over from the starter or that it won't start?
The other question is, can you see battery with your test light at the other small wire on the coil when the key is on?

 

[JavierG]

Thank you for responding. When I say nothing, i mean it doesnt turn over at all and I dont even hear a click. The only sound I hear is the starter switch being engaged by the gear shift. Nothing electrical sounding at all.

 

[pomester]

I bought a 6v Ferguson TO30. The guy I bought it from said the tractor was running fine then one day would start and shutoff like it was flooding out. He showed me a video of it working perfectly with a small disc. He got it to turn over by hooking up jumper cables from his 12v pickup directly to the starter cuz he felt the starter switch was no good.

When I got it home I rewired the whole thing using advice from one of yesterdaystractors contributors. It was easy, and fun! I got a new starter switch because the old one was bad and put that in. Installed a new sediment bowl assembly because the old one wouldnt shutoff completely and of course, a new 6v battery.

Then I went to start it. Nothin.

I got a tester light.

Tested the ignition switch. Lights up on both sides.
Tested the starter switch which lights up on both sides when I put the shifter in the S position.

Tested the cable that goes from the starter switch to the starter. It lights up.

I checked the small wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. No light at either end.

Beyond this I dont know what to check or how to check it being as I'm not a mechanic at all. I'd like to know what the sequence is for checking the ignition system step by step. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Welcome. Have you cleaned the battery ground? Originally it attaches to the back of the dash via a short cable, often where the cable bolts to the dash becomes dirty and corroded. It is also possible the starter needs serviced.

When the key is on you should have 6v at the small wire at the coil opposite the wire which runs to the distributor. This has nothing to do with the starter not turning the engine over.

 

[JavierG]

The battery cable is attached to the chassis with a bolt. I cleaned the bolt, cable end, the lock washer, and the flat part of the chassis it sits on with a wire brush. I didnt think about cleaning the threads inside the chassis though. Figured the flat part would be good enough.

The only other wire on the coil runs to the ignition switch. With the key on, I attempted to get that wire to give me a reading. Not knowing what setting to use on my multimeter I tried all of them. I only briefly got a .3 and then it would almost instantly go to .1, then zero.

 

[Jim.ME]

Where on the chassis is the ground cable connected? Are The cable connections on The battery clean and bright? 6 volt batteries seem to be plagued with dirty posts.

The wire on the ignition switch side of the coil should show battery voltage (or very slightly below battery voltage). Unhook the wire from the terminal that goes to the distributor, so your reading is not affected by the position of the points, by any chance.

Your meter should be set to DC voltage on a low scale that exceeds 8 volts. Different meters have different settings. Post a picture of the face of your meter if you need more info on which setting to use.

 

[Jim L WA]

Another thing to know is, just because you have enough voltage for your test light at the starter post doesn't mean there is enough current for the starter. At this point, I would take a jumper cable and go from the battery right to the starter post, TRACTOR IN NEUTRAL AND KEY OFF! If still nothing, than take the starter to an auto supply and have it tested, but when you take it off, look at where it's mounted to the engine. That needs to be rust, etc. free too. If the starter tests good, then back to the ground and battery connections.

 

[JavierG]

Where on the chassis is the ground cable connected? Are The cable connections on The battery clean and bright? 6 volt batteries seem to be plagued with dirty posts.

The wire on the ignition switch side of the coil should show battery voltage (or very slightly below battery voltage). Unhook the wire from the terminal that goes to the distributor, so your reading is not affected by the position of the points, by any chance.

Your meter should be set to DC voltage on a low scale that exceeds 8 volts. Different meters have different settings. Post a picture of the face of your meter if you need more info on which setting to use.

Will do Jim thank you!

 

[JavierG]

Another thing to know is, just because you have enough voltage for your test light at the starter post doesn't mean there is enough current for the starter. At this point, I would take a jumper cable and go from the battery right to the starter post, TRACTOR IN NEUTRAL AND KEY OFF! If still nothing, than take the starter to an auto supply and have it tested, but when you take it off, look at where it's mounted to the engine. That needs to be rust, etc. free too. If the starter tests good, then back to the ground and battery connections.

Dully noted. Cant wait to get off work and try this out. Thank you!

 

[JavierG]

ground

 

[JavierG]

cable

I'm a little embarassed. Not sure if Im doing this right. To test, I put one lead from my multimeter on the (-) post of the battery and the other on the starter post while the jumper cable was on it. Gave me a reading of 6.3 but didnt even try to start. No sound, no smoke, no nothin. Then I took the jumper cables off and had my kid jump on and and put the gear shift on the S to engage the starter switch. Gave me a reading of 6.3 at the starter post when starter switch was engaged.

 

[pomester]

I'm a little embarassed. Not sure if Im doing this right. To test, I put one lead from my multimeter on the (-) post of the battery and the other on the starter post while the jumper cable was on it. Gave me a reading of 6.3 but didnt even try to start. No sound, no smoke, no nothin. Then I took the jumper cables off and had my kid jump on and and put the gear shift on the S to engage the starter switch. Gave me a reading of 6.3 at the starter post when starter switch was engaged.

That set up should cause the starter to operate. I think you need to pull the starter and take it to a shop for evaluation/rebuilding. I believe with that model of starter you'll have to pull the distributor to get it out. Not a big deal, but keep track of where the rotor is pointing so you can replace it in the same position. I take a picture with my phone.

 

[JavierG]

That set up should cause the starter to operate. I think you need to pull the starter and take it to a shop for evaluation/rebuilding. I believe with that model of starter you'll have to pull the distributor to get it out. Not a big deal, but keep track of where the rotor is pointing so you can replace it in the same position. I take a picture with my phone.

Will do. Thank you for the advice. I really appreciate you taking the time.

 

[Jim.ME]

Your picture shows the positive battery cable is connected to the engine block flange right below the starter, that is good.

The end of the battery cvable that is connected to the starter stud appears to be a very poor connection, that needs to be fixed/replaced.

For a 6-volt system 1/0 battery cables are best. It may be the pictures, but your cables appear to be smaller gauges than that. Many over the counter premade cables for 12-volt cars are only 4 gauge, some maybe 2.

And I agree the starter needs to be looked at if it won't try to turn with the booster cables hooked up.

 

[JavierG]

Your picture shows the positive battery cable is connected to the engine block flange right below the starter, that is good.

The end of the battery cvable that is connected to the starter stud appears to be a very poor connection, that needs to be fixed/replaced.

For a 6-volt system 1/0 battery cables are best. It may be the pictures, but your cables appear to be smaller gauges than that. Many over the counter premade cables for 12-volt cars are only 4 gauge, some maybe 2.

And I agree the starter needs to be looked at if it won't try to turn with the booster cables hooked up.

Thank you Jim. I got those cables at NAPA I believe. I didnt know there were different ones. Will definitely look into that.

I didnt feel good about the cable connected to the starter even though I cleaned it up the best I could. I will replace that.

Will be taking the starter off today after work and take a picture of the inside of the distributor before I take it off. Thank you so much for the info. You guys are awesome!

 

[Ron(Ont)]

If you have a good 12 volt battery, a quick way to test the starter is to hook a jumper cable from the +ve of the battery to a large bolt on the engine. Remember 6 volt systems are +ve ground. Then, with transmission in neutral, quickly touch the jumper from the battery -ve terminal to the bolt on the starter. It will not hurt the starter to do it in bursts of a few seconds. If the starter turns over, the starter is good and you need to look at the cables.

 

[JavierG]

10-4 Ron thank you! Going to do this before removing the starter.

 

[Ray,IN]

6V battery cables are 3X the diameter of 12V cables for a valid reason.
This picture explains why 12V cables will not carry enough amperes to run a 6V starter.

 

[JavierG]

Your picture shows the positive battery cable is connected to the engine block flange right below the starter, that is good.

The end of the battery cvable that is connected to the starter stud appears to be a very poor connection, that needs to be fixed/replaced.

For a 6-volt system 1/0 battery cables are best. It may be the pictures, but your cables appear to be smaller gauges than that. Many over the counter premade cables for 12-volt cars are only 4 gauge, some maybe 2.

And I agree the starter needs to be looked at if it won't try to turn with the booster cables hooked up.

Jim I thought you were talking about my jumper cables but you are talking about the battery cables on my tractor. Those cables and the one from the switch to the starter came with the tractor. I'll find some 1/0 like you said. Saw Rons picture and it dawned on me. Thanks again.

 

[JavierG]

6V battery cables are 3X the diameter of 12V cables for a valid reason.
This picture explains why 12V cables will not carry enough amperes to run a 6V starter.
View attachment 150813

Thanks for the picture Ray. It makes perfect sense. I'll get some 6v battery cables. Thanks for the info!