Mudrig's new Ford 3000

[Mudrig150]

Are you running it in draft control mode or position control mode?

Does the draft control plunger move in and out while you drive the tractor with the mower raised when you hit a bump?

I'm running it in position control. In draft control the 3 point won't lift at all.
Not sure on the draft control plunger moving but it happens mainly when the tractor is level but the mower is elevated, it doesn't do it when passing over a valley in the ground.

 

[Sean in PA]

First thing is to replace the draft control pin/seat stud. I'm not an expert on that system, but from my understanding that pin shouldn't affect things when it is in draft control mode, but the fact that it is missing completely might mean that other things have moved out of position inside to the point that even position control is affected.

 

[Mudrig150]

Well, the 3 point isn't really a top concern because a much bigger issue has presented itself. Went to pull the tractor out today, put it in reverse, and it immediately took off backwards while I was still holding the inching pedal down. Turns out, my clutch valve has gone out so the only way to run the tractor is to shift it like a standard powershift with the exception of needing to use park to stop, much to the detriment of the clutch bands. It's also experiencing all the other issues it had before.
The deal on the parts tractors both fell through so now I'm stuck with this tractor that won't lift attachments and won't stop driving.

 

[Mudrig150]

I found one that should work... later 8 speed gas 3000, terrible shape, blown motor.. I was hoping to get some spare engine parts but that's not happening, even 3000 diesels with ventilated blocks sell FAST. Really sucks, too, I have to keep my caved in and rust filled fuel tank and my leaking injector lines...

 

[Mudrig150]

Parts machine acquired! Kind of a shame to part out old 102550 but this one (34800 or whatever, I forget what the serial was) should be a much nicer machine. It's a gas 8 speed with 1100 hours and a ventilated block:

The diesel from 102550 will be going on this transmission and basically nothing else will be swapped over since 102550 is in way worse shape in like... every way. Will probably part 2550 out, keep some parts for the working machine, and sell off the rest. Kind of sucks, too. I haven't found a single other lower serial 3000 in the months I've looked, and yet it's basically worthless because the transmission is acting up. If it was an 8 speed it would be probably be worth something...

 

[Mudrig150]

Went ahead and did some testing today... engine still spins over so was able to verify the 3 point on the parts tractor works, as does the PTO and the clutch. Power steering is totally empty so couldn't test it, and unfortunately the engine lacks compression on at least 2 cylinders (I'm thinking that #1 and #2 are both broken and #3 is the only one intact) so getting it running isn't happening, not like I'd run it anyway with the #1 journal completely open and dumping oil pressure.

I made a quick video just going over both machines.

 

[Mudrig150]

Changed the fuel filters on the diesel today, and yeah, I'll let the picture do the talking.

Stand pipes were covered in rust as well, and the filter media totally disintegrated. The inlet filter clogged solid again and had to be cleaned out but it seems as if the tank outlet also clogged up so the tractor won't stay running.

Managed to limp it to the shed to get it closer to all my tools at least.

 

[Mudrig150]

Got the fuel outlet cleaned out, and yeah, it was totally clogged. Took an hour and a half to drain 3 gallons of fuel out of the fuel valve so I ended up loosening it and letting the rest drain out around the threads. Tractor is running a lot better now now that it actually has some fuel flow, and with the filters no longer feeding rusty gunk through to the injection pump it's hopefully going to last longer before it all clogs up again. Also had to fix the shutoff cable because, for some reason, the previous owner zip tied it to the fuel line instead of just running it the right way, so the cable sheath would move instead of the cable itself.

The diesel successfully dragged the carcass of the gas machine up to the shed to start readying it for the diesel to be swapped between the two tractors.

 

[Mudrig150]

Started stripping the parts tractor to get ready for the split. It'll clean up pretty good once I get the diesel on.

Can the hydraulic pump and the steering pump swap? The gas machine has the later style steering pump, while the diesel has the early style with the seperate reservoir; the hydraulic pump seems the same but I'm not sure if the gears are the same between both.

 

[Texasmark]

Just picked up a new toy:
View attachment 155963A mid 60s 3000 diesel select-o-speed.
I am well aware of the reputation of these machines, but for the work I'm doing and the price it was the best I could get. Eventually I plan on 8 speed swapping it, but for now it's keeping the select-o-speed. Lots of little things to fix and questions to ask.
-The steering cylinder on the right side needs seals, how does the end of the cylinder come off? I know it unthreads but it's tapered so it looks like it'll need a special tool.
-The radiator constantly leaks out of the overflow. Cap seems like it's barely holding pressure, what rating is it supposed to be?
-The blade is coming off because it is SHOT. It's a mess of torch cut steel, fabricobbled brackets, and booger welds. It's a 3 point moldboard stuck onto a modified Dearborn built workmaster blade frame. The hydraulic valve has a lift and what seems to be float position but it doesn't quite act like float. Am I correct in it being just two positions of float and lift? I want to add rear hydraulics eventually for lifting attachments.
-The PTO handle pulled out normally but now it seems the cable is stuck in the engaged position. How do I get access to free the cable up?

Looking forward to getting it all working good again!

Looks like my 1965 3000 sheet metal.

7* on the radiator cap pressure as I recall. The tank on top of the fins in the radiator is for liquid expansion when the tractor gets up to temperature. If you fill the tank all the way to the top when cold, it will vent out the overflow tube. Proper coolant is just above the top of the fins when cold.

I replaced my "packing" on one of my ford PS cylinders but don't remember the procedure. Seems that there are several different types of sealing mechanisms in the cylinder industry. I didn't need special tools once I figured out how to get it apart.

If you plan on pulling a roto-tiller with that tractor, keep the SOS.

If the bands start slipping, tightening is easy....on one side (left as I recall) of the tranny, about half way up is a threaded stud sticking out with a lock nut.....roughly 1" wrench size as I recall. On the other side are 2 such studs.....3 bands total. The shop manual tells you how to adjust the tension......recalling and may be somewhat in error was the procedure whereby you loosen the nut and screw the stud in until you feel tension then back off slightly and lock the nut. The amount of "band" material left on the internal shoes is obvious by how much of the stud is sticking out past the lock nut. Mine was worn to the point where the stud was at the end of its threads at the nut but still worked. If you have an inch of threads sticking out you are in great shape.

 

[Mudrig150]

Looks like my 1965 3000 sheet metal.

7* on the radiator cap pressure as I recall. The tank on top of the fins in the radiator is for liquid expansion when the tractor gets up to temperature. If you fill the tank all the way to the top when cold, it will vent out the overflow tube. Proper coolant is just above the top of the fins when cold.

I replaced my "packing" on one of my ford PS cylinders but don't remember the procedure. Seems that there are several different types of sealing mechanisms in the cylinder industry. I didn't need special tools once I figured out how to get it apart.

If you plan on pulling a roto-tiller with that tractor, keep the SOS.

If the bands start slipping, tightening is easy....on one side (left as I recall) of the tranny, about half way up is a threaded stud sticking out with a lock nut.....roughly 1" wrench size as I recall. On the other side are 2 such studs.....3 bands total. The shop manual tells you how to adjust the tension......recalling and may be somewhat in error was the procedure whereby you loosen the nut and screw the stud in until you feel tension then back off slightly and lock the nut. The amount of "band" material left on the internal shoes is obvious by how much of the stud is sticking out past the lock nut. Mine was worn to the point where the stud was at the end of its threads at the nut but still worked. If you have an inch of threads sticking out you are in great shape.

It's a 65.

I already got the coolant overflowing issue fixed with a new cap, the old cap only built 3 lbs of pressure, and the system was building more than that. Radiator has just enough resistance to flow across the core that the water pump's output slowly fills the top tank, causing it to overflow the rad.

I already resealed the steering cylinder but found a seriously scored part on the rod right in the middle so I don't anticipate it lasting.

I don't plan on running a tiller, and the SOS is already acting up: the inching pedal barely stops the tractor and it creeps in reverse, the PTO drags even when disengaged, the rockshaft seals are blown so the 3 point doesn't lift, and the position control doesn't work at all. Also, the brakes do nothing. I already have the 8 speed parts tractor to swap the diesel onto, since I got it running good.

 

[Texasmark]

It's a 65.

I already got the coolant overflowing issue fixed with a new cap, the old cap only built 3 lbs of pressure, and the system was building more than that. Radiator has just enough resistance to flow across the core that the water pump's output slowly fills the top tank, causing it to overflow the rad.

I already resealed the steering cylinder but found a seriously scored part on the rod right in the middle so I don't anticipate it lasting.

I don't plan on running a tiller, and the SOS is already acting up: the inching pedal barely stops the tractor and it creeps in reverse, the PTO drags even when disengaged, the rockshaft seals are blown so the 3 point doesn't lift, and the position control doesn't work at all. Also, the brakes do nothing. I already have the 8 speed parts tractor to swap the diesel onto, since I got it running good.

I had the PTO drag you mention also.....never did anything about it....just turned the tractor off when hooking up an implement......but that was on a '63ish 4 cylinder 4000. All my current, and most of those over the years were 8 speed, Live PTO........perfect for digging holes for fence posts in a row.

 

[Mudrig150]

Got the gas tractor split. Was a bit of a process but got it done.