Trailer wiring

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Winch on the trailer needs a battery beside it. The 7th power wire back from the truck can not carry enough current for serious winching .
Counting on the trailer frame and in particular the hitch for a ground/chassis return connection . Is being overly optimistic.
 
On our tow vehicles, for hauling work boats, we ran a positive cable from the battery, to the rear, connected to a battery jumper quick connect, and grounded it to the frame, close to the plug. We put the other end of the quick connect on the winch . All our vehicles had dual batteries, so we had plenty of power. And yes, we used a heavy duty, resetable circuit breaker.
 
Sounds to me like the grandkids can learn the wonderful advantages of a manual come a long to get the car on next time and I bet a couple of these problems would solve themselves. No harness for them to destroy on that
 
Winch on the trailer needs a battery beside it. The 7th power wire back from the truck can not carry enough current for serious winching .
Counting on the trailer frame and in particular the hitch for a ground/chassis return connection . Is being overly optimistic.
Setup here is with battery on trailer. What type of battery is best. Just replaced 4 year old deep
cycle with a new one,1000 CCA. Deep cycle was much cheaper than automotive so what advantages
do both have ?
 
With a battery mounted on the trailer you only need the hot wire from your plug to the battery and both batteries will stay charged at the same time. No power to both with the engine not running with the switch off. I made long jumper cables to go from the truck battery to the winch on the trailer. I think I only used the winch a few times after mounting it on the trailer.
 
Setup here is with battery on trailer. What type of battery is best. Just replaced 4 year old deep
cycle with a new one,1000 CCA. Deep cycle was much cheaper than automotive so what advantages
do both have ?
The way that I understand it is that most batteries provide cold cranking amps, which is basically the ability to crank a large motor when it is cold out. Deep cycle batteries provide much less power at a time but for longer.
 
With a battery mounted on the trailer you only need the hot wire from your plug to the battery and both batteries will stay charged at the same time. No power to both with the engine not running with the switch off. I made long jumper cables to go from the truck battery to the winch on the trailer. I think I only used the winch a few times after mounting it on the trailer.
Starting batteries are designed to provide a short burst of intense amperage. Deep cycle batteries are designed to provide extended amperage at a lower level for an hour or more, depending on application.
 
Well what I decided to do is I put a solar charger mounted to the tool box for the winch battery. The power wire will remain disconected.
 
2 suggestions:
A) Run the wiring in conduit
B) Train the grandchildren

Yes, but not necessarily in that order. I've done EMT as a protective/support wireway on more than one trailer, and there is just enough zinc on most hardware store variety thinwall to survive a decade or more of snowmobile and boat hauling.

Trailer wiring is frequently the best example of someone with no understanding attempting something for the first time. The problem arises when nothing is learned from those instances and the same kind of cobbled, fire-hazard, reckless methods are applied over and over after each failure.

A plain decontactor as a power connector is as effective as any safety switch, more durable, is inherently fool-friendly, and simpler. Russel-Stoll, Meltric, and lots of other manufacturers can supply those up to 1,000A at 600V (some higher).
 
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