Case 530 stuck in a few gears.

[Justin Case 530]

Well I could really use some help on my 530. I wasn’t driving at the time, but the shifter is really jammed up and I think the driver was trying very aggressively to get it going again, which I don’t think helped!!

I’ve tried getting the cover off but I’m not having any luck at all and I’ve pried on it about as hard as I’m willing to. I believe it’s in reverse and maybe 2nd gear.

I have a manual but it’s not a factory manual. I’m not sure if I can gain any access by removing the range shifter cover?

If anyone has any advice for me, I would really appreciate it.

It’s stuck out in the woods and I have no way to move it so I’m really hoping to at least get it to where I can limp it back to the barn.

The picture is as far as I can lift it!

 

[tomturkey]

my VAC got stuck one time and I bumped the shifter with a 3lb hammer a few times and it poped loose from where it had been stuck. I bought an international 300 utility that had sat for an extended period of time, I had to use the same hammer to get that shifter to move. I am not suggesting wailing on it, but a solid strike or two or three may be what you need. gobble

 

[Joe (Wa)]

#8 is a 1 inch slotted spring pin on the left side that can get hung up. Try to get the pin out so you have some wobble room to move the forks in the shift collars

#24 is the reverse fork that may get bent far enough to get hung up. If left side pin is out see if you can lift the left side of the cover higher than the right side.

#16 are the interlock plugs between the rails that if worn are the main reason for getting into two gears at once.

 

[matthies]

If you can jack up a rear wheel, block other one, to take any binding or pressure off of the geartrain.

 

[Case Nutty 1660]

Well I could really use some help on my 530. I wasn’t driving at the time, but the shifter is really jammed up and I think the driver was trying very aggressively to get it going again, which I don’t think helped!!

I’ve tried getting the cover off but I’m not having any luck at all and I’ve pried on it about as hard as I’m willing to. I believe it’s in reverse and maybe 2nd gear.

I have a manual but it’s not a factory manual. I’m not sure if I can gain any access by removing the range shifter cover?

If anyone has any advice for me, I would really appreciate it.

It’s stuck out in the woods and I have no way to move it so I’m really hoping to at least get it to where I can limp it back to the barn.

The picture is as far as I can lift it!

the cover has a alignment pin at the tp,, those stick the cover,, also sure sounds to me like you got bent shift forks possibly, folks Ram and Jam them when shifting,, things get bent and shift harder so they get rougher,,,,, well you know,, fixed plenty of them in the past 60 years,, seen them broken and rewelded and never put back to the correct position, this can leave them in two gears at once also,, just a rambleing thought

 

[mEl]

As others have stated, you must work under the cover to get the forks in neutral or the cover will not come off, I have seen people pry so hard they break the cover where the rails slide through, not a good plan when things are getting harder to get and more expensive as well.

 

[Case Nutty 1660]

As others have stated, you must work under the cover to get the forks in neutral or the cover will not come off, I have seen people pry so hard they break the cover where the rails slide through, not a good plan when things are getting harder to get and more expensive as well.

Good point I forgot to add about the shift rails that go in the trans housing when stuck in gear ,,, thanks for the correction

 

[Justin Case 530]

#8 is a 1 inch slotted spring pin on the left side that can get hung up. Try to get the pin out so you have some wobble room to move the forks in the shift collars

#24 is the reverse fork that may get bent far enough to get hung up. If left side pin is out see if you can lift the left side of the cover higher than the right side.

#16 are the interlock plugs between the rails that if worn are the main reason for getting into two gears at once.

The roll pin is at the rear and I’ve managed to get the cover lifted that far. I’ve been trying to pry things back into place with no luck.

I’m not sure if I would have access to the shifter rails by pulling the cover off of the range selector?

 

[Justin Case 530]

As others have stated, you must work under the cover to get the forks in neutral or the cover will not come off, I have seen people pry so hard they break the cover where the rails slide through, not a good plan when things are getting harder to get and more expensive as well.

And that’s the fight I’m struggling with and not getting anywhere. Would I have access to the rails if it removed the range shifter??

 

[mEl]

No, totally separate compartments.

 

[Tgrasher]

For lack of any other ideas, try taping a small block of wood to the gear shift on the opposite side of the direction you need it to go. Take an air chisel with a blunt tip and vibrate the lever while applying mild pressure. You need to reseat the transmission plate so it gives resistance.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Here are some pics from an older tractor but it is the same shifter as on the 1960-1964 530 and maybe later. The #8 split pin (locator pin) is on the back of the cover as opposed to the left side as it appears on the parts view pic above. Those 1 inch long pins can really hang up the cover.

3. is the forks, the reverse fork is longer and with a pronounced curve that makes it the most likely to bend and hang up.

4. Side view of the forks.

5. The shift collars. Reverse fork shift collar is way down there on the right side. The shift collars are fairly narrow and your cover pic doesn't appear to be lifted high enough to pull any of the forks out of the collars so it doesn't appear to me that a shift rail is hung up under the case edge but it is possible I guess especially if a fork has slipped on the shift rail.

6. is the location of the interlock plugs. The interlock plugs mate with a detents in the shifter rails. the purpose is to prevent the adjacent shifter rails following when one or the other is shifted. If you are shifting out of reverse, a worn plug in 1&2 shift rail can jump out of the detent and you end up in reverse and 1 or 2 gear with a locked up transmission. The same can happen if the detents are worn down in the shifter rails.

When you get the cover up I can post some shifter instructions that are in a service manual if you need it.