.090 linners

[tumleweed]

I thought I had a good handle on what was going on with the linners in this block. Will the cast iron .090" linners flake, are these linners actually steel with a cast iron coating of sorts? I read somewhere that you can run a few beads of weld the length of the linner to draw them up a little and get them out, is this true. If not I just ruined this block I think, deffinatly not the direction I was wanting to go.

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 01:21:10 10/14/12) I thought I had a good handle on what was going on with the linners in this block. Will the cast iron .090" linners flake, are these linners actually steel with a cast iron coating of sorts? I read somewhere that you can run a few beads of weld the length of the linner to draw them up a little and get them out, is this true. If not I just ruined this block I think, deffinatly not the direction I was wanting to go.

Pictures?

 

[Dell (WA)]

weedie........uh, the 0.090 cast iron liners are ALL castiron which offer BETTER sealing and wear to modern chrome piston rings. To use the castiron sleeve, you must bore the block to fit the thicker outside diameter of the castiron sleeve. Boring a cylinder hole is common engine machine shop procedure.

Right now I can't remember the "trick" to remove castiron sleeves except to have the machine shop bore it out.

Installation is eazy using "dry-ice" to shrink the sleeve. I make a wooden "spool" with 1/2" all-thread and 2-pieces of roughly sawn plywood ends and nuts to hold them in place. I fill the sleeve with chips of dry-ice and install from the top of the block. I un-screw the bottom disc and catch the chips and re-use them for the next sleeve. I gitt the dry-ice at the grocery store or use the yellow-pages.

The ol'Hokie also makes a sleeve "press" for installation and removal.

The weld bead trick is fer the thinner 0.040 sheetmetal sleeve as an alternative to "peeling" the sheetmetal away from the block with a screwdriver.

Don't fergitt, sometimes they pulled the sheetmetal sleeve and used Mercury V-8 pistons for more displacement and horsepower. This was a "bolt-in" hot-rod trick. ........Dell

 

[tumleweed]

The morning has not been the best.

 

[tumleweed]

Im thinking on the 2 inner cylinders the linner collapsed and broke up and thats what was in the pan.

 

[tumleweed]

OOOH BOOOY!

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 13:19:10 10/13/12) The morning has not been the best.

That looks like an .040 sleeve. If you are a reasonably talented elder the welding trick works well for .090 sleeves but is tough to do on the thinner ones.

TOH

 

[tumleweed]

Im 46 and hard headed. a piece of the linner that flaked of measures .033", and the id number has the stars at each end. Boring to fit the .090" sleeve is in this blocks future.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 13:59:51 10/13/12) Im 46 and hard headed. a piece of the linner that flaked of measures .033", and the id number has the stars at each end. Boring to fit the .090" sleeve is in this blocks future.

I'm an optimist - look at it as a blessing in disguise :roll:

TOH

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 21:59:51 10/13/12) Im 46 and hard headed. a piece of the linner that flaked of measures .033", and the id number has the stars at each end. Boring to fit the .090" sleeve is in this blocks future.

The Valve seats look to also be shot add those to the list....

 

[tumleweed]

well seems like the day just keeps getting better.. didnt want to do valve seats

 

[Anonymous-0]

You can remove any sleeve 40 or 90. Pull the pistons out of the block. Put one in upside down. When the top ring on the piston pops through the bottom of the sleeve, stop there. Put a jack under the piston and with a short pipe jack it into the upside down piston. Apply as much pressure as possible. If it doesn't break loose let it sit for a while. A little heat and tapping helps. It will come loose soon.

 

[ZANE]

To do the welding on the sleeves you must be an accomplished welder able to select the correct amperage to be able to make a cold weld and not penetrate the sleeve.

What you should do now is have a sleeve knocker made by turning a piece of solid bar stock so that about an inch will go snugly into the sleeve bore and then turn the next inch or so to a size that will just barly go through the block bore. Turn the block upside down and using a heavy drift and a big hammer drive the sleeves out.

Or order a set of pullers and installers from the Old Hokie. He makes a very good set of tools and resonably priced.

Zane

 

[Ken(Ark)]

What you should do now is have a sleeve knocker made by turning a piece of solid bar stock so that about an inch will go snugly into the sleeve bore and then turn the next inch or so to a size that will just barly go through the block bore.

I found and old drive shaft , took the yolk that slipped into the C6 tranny , and removed the u joint . Turned the yolk down a little smaller than the OD and cut a lip just smaller than the id . Looks funny but has worked well .

I have large C02 bottles so I can make dry ice when I need it and acetone to make a cold slushy , no beating sleeves .

 

[Britcheflee]

(quoted from post at 20:41:05 10/16/12)

What you should do now is have a sleeve knocker made by turning a piece of solid bar stock so that about an inch will go snugly into the sleeve bore and then turn the next inch or so to a size that will just barly go through the block bore.

I found and old drive shaft , took the yolk that slipped into the C6 tranny , and removed the u joint . Turned the yolk down a little smaller than the OD and cut a lip just smaller than the id . Looks funny but has worked well .

I have large C02 bottles so I can make dry ice when I need it and acetone to make a cold slushy , no beating sleeves .

I will probably be cast into the pits of hell by the other members of the forum here for saying this but to remove the thinner sleves all I did was CAREFULLY use a screwdriver and a rubber mallet and tap top of the sleeve in until I could get the screwdriver down the side of the sleeve - I was extremely careful not to scrape the sides and just tapped down and pulled in and tapped down and pulled in and the darn things split all the way down once I got to the bottom they just sprung in on themselves and fell out!!! There I said it!!! May the tractor gods punish me for my sins..........but it worked :twisted:

 

[R Geiger]

We can get away with doing a lot of things on these old machines and sometime the cost will decide what I will or will not do. I was not so worried about removing the old 040 sleeves but installing the new ones, so I bought the tools made by TOH and they worked great for both removing and installing the new sleeves. They are well worth the money and someday I MAY sell them on Ebay, but not until I sell my two 8ns.

 

[Britcheflee]

(quoted from post at 07:14:13 10/17/12) We can get away with doing a lot of things on these old machines and sometime the cost will decide what I will or will not do. I was not so worried about removing the old 040 sleeves but installing the new ones, so I bought the tools made by TOH and they worked great for both removing and installing the new sleeves. They are well worth the money and someday I MAY sell them on Ebay, but not until I sell my two 8ns.

I certainly would have the installation tool - I cleaned the bore with a green scrubby until it shined - lightly sprayed it with WD40 and using a flat piece of wood and a mallet very carefully tapped in the new sleeves - once they got going they went in fine - however, was extremely nervous of them collapsing - the installation tool would definately helped in this case.