1010c Igntion Switch Replacement

[Anonymous-0]

This message is a reply to an archived post by John T on November 25, 2005 at 16:41:29.
The original subject was "Re: 1010c Igntion Switch Replacement".

I'm going thru this right now, there IS a diode on the back of the late style switch (external coil ballast). I discover this while trying to get the generator fired up. If the diode goes bad the motor won't shut off once the Gen is charging.
I just purchased a new switch and am going to try it again. Can anyone tell me what the letters on the back of the switch correspond to?
It is a 64 1010 gas RUS.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Actually this is what I need help with.
Here is what I do know, the L terminal from the regulator (four wire reg) powers the L terminal at the ign switch. GEN goes to the A terminal on the generator. The F goes to the generator field. B is hot all the time, it is connected to the starter post.

Here is my problem; I have an idiot light for the charging system. Where does this connect to? One end is connected to a splice, the same splice that powers up the oil light.The oil light works fine.

Where does the other lead for the GEN light connect to? If I ground the lead it lights. Does it connect to the field terminal on the regulator?
Again, it is an RUS Gas/12v +gnd system. Any help would be great, thank you.

 

[John T]

New Gens NOT my thing but,,,,, if the idiot light is connected to the VR's ARM/GEN terminal when the genny isnt producing voltage it sees a path to ground and would glow HOWEVER once the genny is producing voltage it would go out.

Wire it to GEN/ARM on the VR is how I would n see what happens.

John T

 

[Anonymous-0]

John, thanks a bunch. I moved the lead from the bat to the gen terminal, works perfect, 13.8-14.5 at full speed.

Yeah, I know new gens are not everyones favorite, but I like the gas four banger. She is not that hard finding parts for if you want them bad enough. It is the technical info I need that is hard to find unless I pay out for a manual....which I have to do soon!

Thanks again.

 

[SparepartsTN]

Hello Paul,

I don"t know what a RUS is but I used to own a 1965 1010c gas crawler loader, and I still have the factory service manual. I don"t know if they are the same, others can correct me, this is what it says.
"L" terminal on VR to "B" terminal (center) on Ign. Sw. black wire; the rest of what you know is correct according to the manual. The wire from the Gen. light (may be tan color) connects to the VR at the Gen. terminal, the same terminal that goes to the "A" post on the generator, it may be spliced to wire from VR to Gen.
Black wire from "L" of key switch to "Batt" on light switch, gray wire from "L" of key switch goes to "splice that powers up oil light".
If you have an extra wire attached to "B" on VR, that goes to the cigarette lighter.
My fingers and possibly your eyes are tired from this long post, hope it helps.

Warren

 

[Pauls1010]

(reply to post at 16:59:47 11/22/07)

Thanks Warren. I ohm'd out the switch and decided to put the L on the center terminal as you mentioned. Everything else is where it is suppose to be according to your diagram.
I had it out today for an hour or so with a volt meter to monitor the gen. I can't believe how well everything works on this machine.
Do you think this would be a good resto project? The tractor is all there except for the battery box, which I have a used one on the way.

Paul

 

[SparepartsTN]

Hello Paul,

I'm happy to hear it is running well for you, as to restoration, I think that is something only you can answer. When I bought my used/abused 1010 crawler in 1991 it needed a lot of repair and a few new parts. Back then the engine sleeve kit with fitted high altitude pistons was $630.00, from what I hear it is a lot more now and getting worse. I have restored vehicles before and noticed that it cost more to do than what they were worth after. Now I just make sure they run well and look decent enough for the intended purpose.
If you intend to keep it for a long time, I strongly recomend a good complete set of manuals, much easier for repair and maintenance.
I have three Fords: farm tractor, pick-up truck and a 3 ton platform-dump truck, the pick-up is the new one, it just turned 40 years old. They all run well and do their job, don't mean to lecture, just passing along my thoughts.

Warren