1070 Power Shift Troubles

[Rick D in KY]

Never had any issues before but was using it to move hay rolls and when shifted to reverse nothing happened. Will not go forward or back. Pulled access cover to see hydraulic control valve and all the linkages are intact and the clutch spool and power shift spools all go through the motions but still nothing happens. What should I try first? Does it look like it would be in the valve body or somewhere else?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick

 

[Agri King]

Does the tractor grunt (as normal) when you step down the clutch?

 

[bison]

I had that happen once on a 1070 .was going fine,shifted up,it went,..then notting,no forward no reverse.
the torque limiter plate broke the center out(sheared the rivets)

 

[mEl]

I would go with Bison's advice, sounds like the TL went to me.

 

[Rick D.]

I seem to notice a slight tap when I depress and let out on the clutch. Does this mean anything?

 

[Rick D.]

I haven't looked at this in my parts/service manual to understand exactly what you are talking about. Where is this located and what is involved to check and/or fix this?

 

[Anonymous-0]

The older 1070's can loose the bolts on one of the shafts, the shaft slides back, the drive gear drops down and the tractor will stop moving.

 

[Rick D.]

What does that mean to fix?? Will I have to break the tractor into or if this has happened can I repair it from the top side?

 

[bison]

The torque limiter is a slip clutch,it's bolted to the flywheel in the place of an conventional clutch on the manual tractors.
You need to split the tractor to get to it.

the little grunt you hear when you step on the inching pedal is the hydr kicking in cause the HYDR pump still works,it is splined to the flywheel seperate from the tranny input shaft.

 

[Rick D.]

Thanks for the info. That wasn't really what I wanted to hear as far as having to split the tractor!! Based off the things that I have described, how confident are you that this might be my problem. Since I don't see any thing that appears wrong with the spools and the way that they seem to actuate is there anything internal to the control valve that could have stuck internally that could be it rather than having to break it into?
Thanks for your feedback,
Rick

 

[dwag]

Is serial# below 8725656? Do hyd's and steering work? Depending on ser#, your answer to Agri King's question indicates gear droppage offage.lol Your looking at a split at flywheel regardless.

 

[Eldo case]

Does your pto turn? Do you have hyds? Can you shift the main 1,2,3,4, gear with out stepping on the clutch pedal and not have it grind. If so, it is the torque limiter. If it will not pull, the gear with 3 3/8" bolts has had the bolts break or loosen up and come off. No matter it will have to be split into to fix. I know I have done both to mine over the years.

 

[bison]

being the fact that you lost all gears at once and IF you still have all hydr functions like power steering,brakes and remotes,i would say the TL is your best bet.
You got to start some where.

But it could be something else as well.

Who knows,these powershifts are fairly complicated and there's lots that can go wrong

I suggest to get some hydr pressure readings on the shift valve block.

A repair/sevice manual is your best friend here.

 

[Anonymous-0]

As the others have said, you will have to split to get to everything. I don't remember if you can see anything looking down from the top. It would be helpful to know the serial number.

 

[Rick D in KY]

Tractor Serial# 8809016
Transmission Serial# 10040323

Seems like I'm headed for a split apart??

 

[Rick D in KY]

I do still have all other hydraulic functions(brakes, steering,lift,remotes) and the PTO works so everything seems OK except it will just not MOVE!!

What seems strange to me about this is that I had not seen anything prior and when this happened it was not done under a load just a simple clutch and shift and then nothing afterwards. I didn't hear any noise or nothing.

I have a service manual and have started to look through it tonight and I will see if I think there is any thing that I need to try before moving ahead to split it and check the TL.
Thanks for you advise.
Rick

 

[Rick D in KY]

Yes, the PTO and all hydraulic functions still work and I can shift it thorugh all the 4 gears without the clutch so it seems like you are telling me to look at the torque limiter.

Since you say you have done this before, when this happened to you did you have any symptoms that led up to this? That is what is so strange to me about mine is that everything has always worked fine and when this happened I was just tooling around and clutched it to stop and reverse and then after that nothing. No forward, reverse, nothing. I didn't hear anything make a racket or nothing.
Thanks for your help.
Rick

 

[Rick D in KY]

Serial# 8809016
All hydraulic and steering still work.

Everything that people are telling me leads me to believe it maybe the TL or loosing a gear from the sliding shaft. It doesn't seem like there is any use to dig into the control valve at this point since it doesn't appear that it would be in it.

 

[Eldo case]

Will not be the torque limiter. It drives everything. Sounds like the three bolts to me. It is a two day job. I split mine at the flywheel left the cab with the sheet metal hood and all. Rolled the bell housing transmission and rear end as a assembly out from under the cab and platform. It takes some room to do this. Not too bad of a job just allot of unbolting and oil draining. I used my A frame hooked to the cab and made me a H type of bracket bolted to the transmission just long enough to just clear the floor with the cross member up enough to use a floor jack under it. Used a floor jack under the oil pan and didn't move the engine. Also blocked the front axle so it wouldn't tilt sideways. That is how I rolled the back end away. Worked pretty good. This is a photo of the torque limiter job.

 

[Eldo case]

Will not be the torque limiter. It drives everything. Sounds like the three bolts to me. It is a two day job. I split mine at the flywheel left the cab with the sheet metal hood and all. Rolled the bell housing transmission and rear end as a assembly out from under the cab and platform. It takes some room to do this. Not too bad of a job just allot of unbolting and oil draining. I used my A frame hooked to the cab and made me a H type of bracket bolted to the transmission just long enough to just clear the floor with the cross member up enough to use a floor jack under it. Used a floor jack under the oil pan and didn't move the engine. Also blocked the front axle so it wouldn't tilt sideways. That is how I rolled the back end away. Worked pretty good. This is a photo of the torque limiter job.

 

[Eldo case]

I should have told you when the gear fell off of mine my son stop to open a gate got back in and it would not move. No fore warning or nothing. The torque limiter I was baling and it just stopped looked at trans. pressure gauge and no pressure no hyd. no pto or steering nothing just stopped that is it.

 

[Rick D.]

Hey thanks for the good reply and picture. I'm not sure I'm setup to do a job this big but haven't ruled it out as of yet. But to find out a little more...once I break it into,in looking at the service manual I should see the tourque limiter first correct? If this does look fine then what comes off to get to the gear that would have the broken bolts and has fallen off? Will I have to pull the power shifter unit? You have been alot of help and if you would like to call me to go through this in more detail rather than typing you can reach me at 270-779-6230.

Shoot if the tractor would run I would just drive it to you and let you help me since it sound like you have first hand knowledge!!!!
Thanks again,
Rick

 

[mEl]

Eldo, the early SN tractors did indeed have a TL that drove everything. Later SN tractors had a driveshaft into the flywheel center that drove the pto and pump driveshaft. The later tractors had a hollow planetary input shaft to a larger splined TL that the pto drive shaft came through into the flywheel. In early models one could watch the pto and if it stopped when the brakes were applied and tractor motion stopped you could be sure of a slippy limiter. It also could be as you suggested a problem with the bolts in the sliding gear shaft but my first thought is TL. Certainly you are right about the very early tractors. mEl

 

[Rick D. in KY]

mEL,
With my tractor having a Serial# 8809016, does this mean that mine would continue to work everything else and could still have a bad TL or would you think it still looks like the sheared bolts on the sliding shaft that would be my problem? If it were the gear coming disengaged from the sliding shaft, is there anyway to see this from uptop if I had removed the transmission cover?
Thanks,
Rick

 

[mEl]

It seems to me that you are overthinking it. If either is the failure the bell housing split is a necessity for a repair. If the TL is bad you need not go any further, just replace the damaged parts, clean all the broken pieces and reassemble. If it is the 3 bolts you must remove the c1-c4 carrier to access the front of the sliding gear shaft. This carrier is in the clutch housiing also. We have given you our best advice based on many years of experience, we cannot see inside, can only advise of the likelyhoods, You take the info given and use it to determine how to proceed. To remove the tranny top just as a diagnostic tool seems like a serious waste of time and a lot of work. mEl

 

[Rick D in KY]

Thanks for your feedback. Since this is something that I haven't done on this tractor before and knowing that I have a few doubts about handling this one myself, I am just looking for the most logical place to start. Sounds like I need to quit hopeing for an easier way out but I think I need to now move to getting things ready to break in into.
Thanks for all of your help and I might get back with you if I get into it and need some additonal help.
Rick

 

[mEl]

We will be here, good luck. mEl