12 volt conversion

Cardigan99

New User
Thinking of converting my 51 8n side mount to a 12 volt setup. Does anyone know if the alternator will clear the arm on a wagner loader?
 
It depends on the bracket, which depends on the kit you get unless you plan to make the bracket yourself. The articles linked below might be helpful re the conversion itself.
50 Tips
 
Thanks Bruce. I've read this before and the first page talked me out of the conversion. Let's face it, if the 6v system is working properly, why bother? Of course it's winter now and the N is giving me problems again (ran fine until it got down into the teens)and I don't feel like rolling around in the snow for the next four months. (i'd pay at least $200 to not have to)
 
Mine did,,, the store bought bracket kit brackets for a side mount are adjustable,,, I made my own but I now keep the store brought ones in stock,,, my time is 2 valuable 2 make'em for a customer,,, but for my self I make'em. I don't use a store bought kit,,, I use the store brought brackets,,, store brought 6V wiring harness,,, store brought alternator,,, special store brought alternator pulley,,, and a NAPA IC14SB coil. All said and done no cheaper than a kit,,, little more,,, but done my way not the kit way that will give ya problems. Kit problems are no coil sent,,, use a resistor,,, If you go kit,,,, sling the resistor and use a NAPA IC14SB coil no resistor needed. I don't like the one wire alt alltho it will serve ya well,,, just me I don't like'em.

Experience and opinions stated here are my own and may not be based on valid memory or sound judgment,,, personal responsibility on your part is required.

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My neighbor keeps his 12v TO-35 in an unheated pole barn & doesn't keep a charger on the battery. He just uses one of those $50 hand carried boosters when it (usually) doesn't start. I get a chuckle offering to pull start it w/ one of my 6v N's!
50 Tips
 
If ya keep all connections shiny & brite & keep everything checked & serviced , you can't beat the 6v system . I like originality myself . If ya want faster starting , put an 8v battery in it . Then be sure to have the VR tweaked to put enough juice back into the battery . Nothing else needs changed . Also no bracket to worry about . I've run my 640 for 81/2 years now with only having to replace 1 headlite & the first battery after 6 yrs of service . So I'm quite pleased . Njoy & Merry CHRISTmas . God bless, Ken
 
My alternator on my 850 has PLENTY of clearance with my 711/722 loader.. though I couldn't mount a lamp on the side of the hood.. that sould give you some idea of the clearance.. etc.

soundguy
 
I have a 24 volt generator under the bench.Wouldnt that conversion spin a 6v starter.Im still wondering why the 12v turkeys havnt considered going to 24 volts.
 
Alrite here"s what you will need to whoop the 6v set up,,,, he he

Go to the local autozone advance or what ever chain parts store is in your area,,, ask for a alternator for a 75 chevy pick up C-10 350 engine. 10SI,,, you also need the pig tail for the plug in. If you can find a old alternator core to turn in it will save ya $15,,, Go to radio shack and git a pack of diodes # 276-1144
Go to Napa and git a IC14SB or IC64 coil
If your wiring harness is in good condition you can use it or git a replacement #8N14401C
I use interstate group 35 batteries,,, they fit the box and hold down used in a 6v application,,, enny battery you can fit in the box will work,,, TIGH IT DOWN
Store brought brackets are

8NL10303
8NL10302
8NL10304
ALT PULLEY # 98NAA5825
its the only pulley I would use period
You will need the bolts and washers to bolt the alt to the brackets,,, lower bolt is 3X8 X 4"
Top is either standard are metric you will need to check it,,, I always heli-coil adjuster hole even if it is a kit alt or make sure the alt you git has goods bolt threads,,, haft of"em you git are worn out.

Search for Bobs pix of the alternator and connector set up or Mail me for it or may-B he will ring in with it. I think you can use your belt,,, if you have a front mounted pump the loader pump shaft will have to come off.

Wiring harness modifications,,,, for the replacement 6V harness,,, I don"t use the 12V harness they are 2 expensive

Tie red & yellow at the regulator side of the harness together.
White wire izz the excite wire and goes to the excite wire at the alternator, tie in to the ignition switch or 2 post junction block on back of switch.
At the gen wire were they connect to the gen, use the bigger red wire as the Bat wire on the alt and the white wire as the excite wire. all the rest of the wires will lay in place as intended.
Bat wire at solenoid has the clear plastic (may have a black insulator wrap) on it were it hooks to the plus side of the amp gauge
other yellow goes to neg side of amp gauge
you will have one wire left over a black wire I think I like to use it fer headlights..

Cost
alt,,, $50 lifetime warranty try that with 6V
pulley $30
wiring $20
brackets $74
battery $60
mis hardware $5
Total $239.00

Kit price will B cheaper,,, I don"t like the kits so spend the X-tra 2 do it my way.

you have a modern system that will kick a 6vs arse,,, EZ parts availability with a warranty kin B found at most enny parts house/junk yard,,, EZ and cheap to repair,,, kin add on lights are what ever plow snow 24/7. A ignition coil that will out fire the 6 V coil,, EZ"er starting and cleaner burning,,, mite have a HP increase.

You will loose the originality aspect of a non werker,,, I here it said that 12v will mask problems,,, That"s proff its more efficient than 6V,,, will operate when 6Vs want... All the talk about grounds,,, NO system will operate efficient with a bad ground altho its possible for a sick 12V to keep up whereas a sick 6v will have ya lay"n in the snow.

Worst case install a 12V battery and a 12v coil,,,, disconnect the gen and regulator and your tractor will run for days on one charge,,, try that with 6vs.

BTW I have 2 tractor that have the dreaded 6V system,,, neither one have to werk for their keep. If they don"t start I will go git on one that will,,, I don"t have time to fiddlefart with"em. Worst case If I git caught off in a jam I can hook up jumpers and charge the battery enuff to operate the tractor,,, or look for a lone enuff power cord to charge a 6v battery or take the 6V bat out walk home and charge it. I don"t smoke but mite take it up,,, a 12V power outlet would come in handy

*note on the alt
ELECTRICALLY, a good choice is a Delco 10SI, from a 1975 to 1985 Chevy pickup, sometimes sold under a rebuilder"s industry standard # of 7127.

The alternator"s case can be CAREFULLY partially separated, and "re-clocked", it is a good idea to verify the alternator you purchase has the connector pointing in a way that will work for you, 12:00.

I have not tryed it but have seen were a 12V 10SI alt will fit rite in the generator clap"n band,,, If I did give that way a ago I would run a decated ground to the alt case from the battery.




Experience and opinions stated here are my own and may not be based on valid memory or sound judgment,,, personal responsibility on your part is required.

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36'er..........they are seriously considering going to 42-volts for automobile electrics. Military already uses 28-volts. Both of these vehicle volts are driven by electronic needs; computer fuel injection and radar transmitters..........Dell
 
Thanks for the info guys. I think I'm going to stay with the 6 volt system for now (or for as long as my patience holds out). I've got a resistor question, but i'll start another post.

Thanks again
 
If an "N" series Ford tractor is in excellent operating condition all around, I see no reason to change it to 12 volt. I've had and operated a 2N for 27 years on a 6 volt system in temps from 5 below zero to 100 degrees above with no starting problems. My tractor is kept in an unheated building and has never failed to start as long as the battery was good.
Mr. Bob
 
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