12 volt conversion

I was going to convert my 49 8n to 12 volts and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which kit to get. Also has anyone had their generator rewound to 12 volts. Thanks for any advice.
 
(quoted from post at 20:56:40 12/21/09) I was going to convert my 49 8n to 12 volts and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which kit to get. Also has anyone had their generator rewound to 12 volts. Thanks for any advice.
f you can weld a little or have a friend that can help with really simple brackets, you can put a "kit" together your self and save about $100. There isn't much to it.
 
Weirdie......despite the seductive eazyness of a 1-wire alternator conversion, I don't recommend it 'cuz you haffta jazz yer cold engine to about 1800rpms (3/4-throttle) before it will start charging. Dunno'bout you, but I don't like jazzin' a cold tractor engine to almost full throttle, good way to putta rod thru the side of the block.

I recommend the 3-wire version of the Delco 10SI alternator with the built-in voltage regulator like Gen Motors and Delco intended, and start charging at about 600rpms. There are plenty of instructions in the archives at the top of this great N-Board.

Theres a reason for alternators, they're cheap and efficient and have built in voltage regulators. 12v Gennys are expensive, require specific matching squarecan voltage regulator and don't charge at idle like alternators do. ......Dell, a 12v advocate for the right reason.

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N, and I know how to do it right the first time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it and they all work. I also know about a gazillion ways that don't work
 
I used an older FoMoCo alternator with external regulator on my last 12v conversion because I have dozens of old ones around (free parts)

Like most things on an N it seemed complicated until I took the time to figure out how everything worked , then it seemed simple .

The part I like the best is the big red idiot light I installed in the dash . If the key is on and the motor is not running the light glows bright enough to make Rudolph jealous .

I have a diode in the Delco 3 wire 12v conversion and will be changing that for another radio shack light special .
 
I put a Delco alt. on my 48-8n but to get it to start charging without reving it up, I bought the smallest pulley (2 1/2")I could find that would fit the original belt. I bored out the pulley to fit the shaft and I don"t have to get much above idle to charge. I also put 12 volt fields in a 6 volt generator on my sons 6 cyl Funk 8-n with a front mount dist. 10 bucks for a used generator and 17.50 at a electric shop to swap the fields. I used a 12 volt regulator from a 50"s to 60"s Ford. The Funk has a wierd double pulley double belt which ruled out a alternator.
 
(quoted from post at 02:38:44 12/22/09) Read up on the conversion here. David.....................

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/12volt.html#wire

I am not sure what so many folks are sold on a solider connection,,, its probably only needed at the bat terminal at the alt and amp meter...

A soldered connection is more prone to failer than a crimped connection,,, when you solder a connector it weakens the joint were the wire enters the connector,,, it can not Handel vibration it will break (you just made it ridged) were as a crimped connection will flex and not damage the connection...

Its been repeated so much folks believe it,, its a fell good issue that will cause more trouble than its worth...



WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
(quoted from post at 23:08:31 12/21/09)
(quoted from post at 02:38:44 12/22/09) Read up on the conversion here. David.....................

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/12volt.html#wire

I am not sure what so many folks are sold on a solider connection,,, its probably only needed at the bat terminal at the alt and amp meter...

A soldered connection is more prone to failer than a crimped connection,,, when you solder a connector it weakens the joint were the wire enters the connector,,, it can not Handel vibration it will break (you just made it ridged) were as a crimped connection will flex and not damage the connection...

Its been repeated so much folks believe it,, its a fell good issue that will cause more trouble than its worth...



WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
ep, Hobo, that's why they use crimps in airplane wiring. I didn't read that on the internet, I did 'em.
 
(quoted from post at 23:08:31 12/21/09)
(quoted from post at 02:38:44 12/22/09) Read up on the conversion here. David.....................

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/12volt.html#wire

I am not sure what so many folks are sold on a solider connection,,, its probably only needed at the bat terminal at the alt and amp meter...

A soldered connection is more prone to failer than a crimped connection,,, when you solder a connector it weakens the joint were the wire enters the connector,,, it can not Handel vibration it will break (you just made it ridged) were as a crimped connection will flex and not damage the connection...

Its been repeated so much folks believe it,, its a fell good issue that will cause more trouble than its worth...



WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

Hobo!!

This time you need to do some Internet research.

I don't think I have ever seen you be this far off base.
 
(quoted from post at 00:11:31 12/22/09) When waz the last time yall flew an 8N?

:shock:
never have & hope I don't. This one flew a little bit:
toes_up.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:33 12/21/09)
(quoted from post at 00:11:31 12/22/09) When waz the last time yall flew an 8N?

:shock:
never have & hope I don't. This one flew a little bit:
toes_up.jpg

We need to get a team down there to check the wiring terminal connections and we should check the sparkies while we are there .
 
[i:654c4848f0]haffta jazz yer cold engine to about 1800rpms (3/4-throttle) before it will start charging. Dunno'bout you, but I don't like jazzin' a cold tractor engine to almost full throttle, good way to putta rod thru the side of the block[/i:654c4848f0]

Dell, once again I gotta ask why do you have to do it cold??
Why can't you let the tractor warm up for a minute or two before you rev it up. If there is enough power in the battery to turn it over and start it there surely is enough power to run it for a couple of minutes before starting the charge.
 
I purchased the 12 volt conversion kit from this site to put on my 1949 8N. It was an easy installation. The schematic and instructions were a little vague but after reading them several times I figured it out. It is a one wire but the alternator has a small pulley so you don't need to run the rpms up very high.
 
(quoted from post at 04:26:43 12/22/09)
(quoted from post at 23:08:31 12/21/09)
(quoted from post at 02:38:44 12/22/09) Read up on the conversion here. David.....................

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/12volt.html#wire

I am not sure what so many folks are sold on a solider connection,,, its probably only needed at the bat terminal at the alt and amp meter...

A soldered connection is more prone to failer than a crimped connection,,, when you solder a connector it weakens the joint were the wire enters the connector,,, it can not Handel vibration it will break (you just made it ridged) were as a crimped connection will flex and not damage the connection...

Its been repeated so much folks believe it,, its a fell good issue that will cause more trouble than its worth...



WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

Hobo!!

This time you need to do some Internet research.

I don't think I have ever seen you be this far off base.

Ok Big Boy show me the Factor recommend repair procedure rite out of the repair manual,,, take yer pick from any of the big 3 are a tractor manual.

I only read this chit never have any hands on experience like Y'all boys,,, not a highly trained killer by uncle sam's army,,, but would like to have a licence to drive a nuclear submarine...

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
(quoted from post at 08:39:00 12/22/09)
(quoted from post at 04:26:43 12/22/09)
(quoted from post at 23:08:31 12/21/09)
(quoted from post at 02:38:44 12/22/09) Read up on the conversion here. David.....................

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/12volt.html#wire

I am not sure what so many folks are sold on a solider connection,,, its probably only needed at the bat terminal at the alt and amp meter...

A soldered connection is more prone to failer than a crimped connection,,, when you solder a connector it weakens the joint were the wire enters the connector,,, it can not Handel vibration it will break (you just made it ridged) were as a crimped connection will flex and not damage the connection...

Its been repeated so much folks believe it,, its a fell good issue that will cause more trouble than its worth...



WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

Hobo!!

This time you need to do some Internet research.

I don't think I have ever seen you be this far off base.

Ok Big Boy show me the Factor recommend repair procedure rite out of the repair manual,,, take yer pick from any of the big 3 are a tractor manual.

I only read this chit never have any hands on experience like Y'all boys,,, not a highly trained killer by uncle sam's army,,, but would like to have a licence to drive a nuclear submarine...

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

One question first...

Do you have the $300 crimping pliers, or the $10 ones?
 

Is this a required question to get a nuke submarine drivers licence...

If it makes any difference I have been know to break the best set,,, Chinese are merican made it did not make a difference...

Course I do expect folks would use the correct connector with the correct gauge wire,,, its possible to weld a rats arse shut if you can keep'em still long enff for the operation,,, its also possible to weld a crack shut as long as you can jump across it ,,, is it the right way dunno will let you figger that out (what Bud's are for)

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:03 12/22/09)
Is this a required question to get a nuke submarine drivers licence...

If it makes any difference I have been know to break the best set,,, Chinese are merican made it did not make a difference...

Course I do expect folks would use the correct connector with the correct gauge wire,,, its possible to weld a rats arse shut if you can keep'em still long enff for the operation,,, its also possible to weld a crack shut as long as you can jump across it ,,, is it the right way dunno will let you figger that out (what Bud's are for)

WARNING :shock: all I know I read on the Internet,,, do it enuff and you can become a guru also,,, not responsible for damages,,, I read it and just pass it along,,, proceed with caution

My point here is that a "one size fits all" statement in regards to crimping vs. soldering, can be very misleading.

Soldering is good, not bad.

Crimping can be great, or be trash.

Take these 2 links for instance, the first being quality, and the second being trash.

http://www.electronicfasteners.com/pdfs/linecard_tb_stakon.pdf

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98713

Here is even a pretty good discussion on it.
http://fsae.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/125607348/m/53010954411

There is a reason that there is a market for $300 crimping pliers.

http://www.drillspot.com/brand/Sta-Kon?pg=3

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ca...g/N-c2xZ1z0ti7e?Ns=List+Price|0&op=search

I doubt many folks on this board have them though.
 
UD......you ask......"Dell, once again I gotta ask why do you have to do it cold??"......'cuz most people fergitt!!! Unlike the 3-wire which starts charging at about 600rpms, (1/4-throttle) which is needed to gitt'chur tractor rolling. And most people don't operate their warm tractor at 3/4-throttle either. ......Dell
 
I have bought several from Dennis Carpenter and they have worked very well. I've never put a one wire unit on that wouldn't charge at idle. Not sure why thats a problem. These Ns are less complicated than a weedeater; sometimes we just think about stuff too much!
 
(quoted from post at 13:35:41 12/22/09) I have bought several from Dennis Carpenter and they have worked very well. I've never put a one wire unit on that wouldn't charge at idle. Not sure why thats a problem. These Ns are less complicated than a weedeater; sometimes we just think about stuff too much!
ommy, you said a mouth full there! I'll pick work on an N or any multi-cylinder with a carb over weed eater engine work any day!
 
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