1219 haybind

mad hatter

New User
Men I have a small issue. My dad has bought a 1219 haybind. We have used a IH990 since the late 70's. Well it finally wore out to the point it is was beyond repair. So he bought a used NH 7ft of some sort. Hated it. So we looked around and bought a 1219 John Deere. so far I am sorry but I hate it. It constantly plugs, and you cannot cut with any speed at all. There has been a bearing go out of it where the roller drives come out of a gearbox. dad has the parts to fix it so I will go down tomorrow to put it back together. What I need to know is.... Is this machine a hopeless cause. We only have a few acres to cut for the year. If I can get it through this and then go through it and have a good machine after I'm done, thats is great! But I cannot go through another summer the way it is. Surely it should be a step up from the old IH990 (don't get me wrong that thing would cut as fast as you drive it, and never give you any trouble in its day).
 
They are good haybine. Haybines in general are only good for about 5-6 mph. Even the new ones. Check your roll spacing and make sure it is not to tight. Check to make sure the rolls are not bent. What are you cutting, pure grass? pure Alfalfa? or is it some type of really tall grass? It makes a difference as to what type of cutting section you are using.Also their are different types of section guards per the type of crop you are cutting. Hope this helps.
 
We cut Fescue,Orchard Grass, and Clover mix. The old 990 could cut it all and you never changed anything. Granted I don't have a manual and if he keeps it till next spring I will get one. Which I am sure he will. What do you mean about the sections. Is there more than smooth and serrated? We always use the serrated. Fro what I have read here the short guards are the best option there but I may be misunderstanding.
 
If I may..Ive been cutting 75% alf25 grass for 10 years. Im going to all grass next year. I use an overserrated section (blades) but the manuel says for grass use underserrated. So im switching right now to unders. Overs will cut grass but my understanding is unders are recommended. Ive used my 1209 for 10 years now. Cut 40 acres alf and 20 grass a year.
 
The 1219 is a good machine, if its plugging, its adjustments.

Remember the sickle mower cuts like scissors the sections being one blade, the guard being the other. Worn guards give lots of trouble with plugging. On my Hesston PT-10 I had trouble for years with just the right most guard. Finally I noticed that the guard wasn't tight against the sections and when I fixed that with a shim washer I had no more plugging. So you need to make really sure the guards have square edges and that the sickle sections ride very close to the guards, with significantly less clearance than the thinnest leaf you want to cut.

The reel should be laying the crop back to the mower and then feeding it cut end first to the crimpers.

I liked the windrows my Hesston made better than those made by the 1209 and 1219 Deere haybines, but usually the Deere haybines were faster from being hitched to a bigger tractor.

Gerald J.
 
I used a 1219 for years. One thing I learned was it would not mow on a tractor if the drawbar was too high. Good machine, much better than a NH.
 

mad hatter
IMHO JD 1219 Mo-Cos were the best sickle cutters JD built and equal to other brands. A correct operating 1219 will cut Sudan/Haygrazer over 6 ft tall.

You really need an OPERATORS MANUAL!!!!!!!!!!

Where is it plugging? At sickle or at rollers? How close to guards are the reel teeth? What angle are the reel teeth operating?

Is reel belt tight and in good condition? You could try speeding up reel

Is wobble box drive belt tight and in good condition?
 
Does it has non-clog guards on it?
If not put them on.
Had the same problem and installed non-clog gaurds and haven't plugged since.
 
Just a friendly FYI. The word is actually "haybine" simply because it combines the sickle mower with the conditioner which makes for a "haybine".
 
Fully aware. Most folks call them a haybine regarless of make or model unless we are talking about a disc mower conditioner. In that case most folks call it a Mo-Co.
 
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