12V Conversion

[Malkum Gibson]

First thanks for all the help on the Generator/Alternator issue.

The problem: the 6v generator went out (didn't know it was a 6v generator at first).

For some reason the site won't let me upload the photos, just a busy time of day I guess. Hopefully the text will be enough to get the idea. I'll keep tiring to send up the photos.

When I bought the 9n I was told that it had been changed to 12v. Well they had put a 12v battery and new resistor in but not much else. Still had the 6v lights and original wiring.

Now I have completed the change over on my 1940 9n to 12v. first the good news, the lights all work!! Now for the bad, the tractor won't start. Here is what's happening. I'm including photos,photo 1 is a shot of the what I think is the starter relay, and above it is where I took off what I think was the voltage regulator (photo 2). I replaced the Ammeter as to keep the working org. 6v one. I clanged the wiring per the installation sheet that came with the kit photo 4. From the top I removed all the old stuff and replaced with the new from the kit as follows: New Ammeter (not with kit), wired + side to new alternator (single pole) - side to old fuse block junction post,(this block still has the resistor so just one junction post)and one wire to the starter switch + side photo 1, (as well this has a line to + side on batt., this is one of the parts in question as to what it is called. This is what I called the starter relay). From the key, one side to the new Resistor and one side to the junction post, and the other side of the resistor to the junction post. I have switched the key wires to see if that made a difference but it didn't. From the junction post another wire to the new 12v coil. At the " starter relay" I didn't change the position of the wires that go the battery, it's the same as it always was.

I can start it by jumping a cross the posts on the starter relay (photo 1) but can't shut it off, the key and the push button start (photo 3) doesn't work to start or stop. I'm not sure if the part (photo 2) was a voltage reg. or an old starter solenoid or if I need a new 12v solenoid. I'm may have missed a wire from the push button start but can't find one on the out side, or something from the old "in gear lock out" that kept the tractor from starting while in gear without engaging the clutch? I'm totally at a loss on what to do next. The tractor ran great with the old 6v gen. and a 12v bat. for a year but no light. I hope I have given enough info if there is anything else I can provide please let me know.
Thanks Much,
Malkum Gibson

 

[tooltimejim]

12 volt wiring with alt. sounds like ignition switch is not wired properly.

 

[Malkum Gibson]

Thanks for the tip, Looking at the dia. above I'm not using Starter solenoid at all and the kit didn't call for one. As to the ignition switch I have reversed the wires on the key side but no difference. Not sure what else to try. Any info would be a great help. The push button start doesn't work as well, one person thought that I didn't hook up the button. Again the new alt. is only one pole.
Thanks Much
Malkum

 

[HCooke]

Here's wiring diagram I sole (borrowed) from JMOR. This is what you need as you do not have a solenoid by a starter switch. Good luck and post back if this doesn't help.

 

[Malkum Gibson]

Thanks, this is different than the one I have (that came with the kit). Does it matter if you use only one post at the resistor block? As well does it matter if your delete the old resistor from the block or it not working (spring broken ect.)Where do the wires come out from the push button for the starter? Haven't found them,as far as I caan tell they are internal, my battery and starter wire come from the cutout relay now, and the dia. I have shows a starter switch.
Thanks Much
Malkum

FYI: now I know that its a cut relay not a start relay,

 

[Malkum Gibson]

I forgot to tell you that from the cutout relay goes to the + side of the battery and to the starter.
Thanks
malklum

 

[gutterman]

what is the light for? restance on just to let you know when it has stoped charging?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:47:36 03/13/10) what is the light for? restance on just to let you know when it has stoped charging?

oth... (the resistance part is to keep alternator from back-feeding the coil & having the engine keep running when you turn key off).

 

[Malkum Gibson]

They are the running lights head and tail lights.
M

 

[Anonymous-0]

I'm in the middle of a conversion on my 9N and having trouble understanding what wires go where. In the diagram that was provided from HCooke it shows the deletion of the cutout switch????Is this correct, if so how does starter cut-out? Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks CB NTX

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:41:36 03/27/10) I'm in the middle of a conversion on my 9N and having trouble understanding what wires go where. In the diagram that was provided from HCooke it shows the deletion of the cutout switch????Is this correct, if so how does starter cut-out? Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks CB NTX

he cut out has nothing to do with the starter. It's purpose was to connect the generator to the battery when ever the generator voltage was high enough to charge battery & disconnect it from battery when it was too low. The need for it goes away with the alternator.

 

[Harvey2fords]

How would the diagram look using the dash mounted red marker lamp and no amp guage??
Is the warning lamp the same as the dash marker light?

Thanks

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:44:02 04/03/10) How would the diagram look using the dash mounted red marker lamp and no amp guage??
Is the warning lamp the same as the dash marker light?

Thanks

arvey, you didn't specify a tractor model, but in general, just tie all wires shown going to/from the ammeter together and that is what a no-ammeter tractor would look like. The warning light (no charge/idiot light) is just a bulb in the Excite (alt terminal #1) line of a Delco 10-SI alternator. Is it the same as 'whatever'?...maybe & maybe not......important is the fact that NEITHER side of this bulb is grounded to chassis, therefore the bulb socket needs to have two wires, neither of which connects to the chassis.