12volt altenator help

[Anonymous-0]

I have a 1 wire set up on my golden Jub, what is the difference between 1 wire and 3 wire setups, any benefits to doing the 3 wire as opposed to the 1 wire? Do I have to do anything extra to convert to 3 wire.. is it worth it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all.

 

[aa5a]

From my own experience with my new, old 861 that came with a one wire alternator is that the alternator has a regulator built inside and I don't need to install a separate regulator. Other than this, I am clueless about any advantages or disadvantages. Can someone with more experience tackle this question?

 

[awhtx]

The 3 wire and 1 wire both have the internal regulator. You have to rev the engine up to nearly full throttle to make the 1 wire begin to charge. The 3 wire begins charging once the engine starts at idle throttle.

 

[souNdguy]

As awhtx said.. both have an internal reg.

check to see if you have the 1/2 port on your alternator.. might have a rubber blank plug over it.

many times you can go ahead and hookup as 3 wire.. and they will function as 3 wire.. all depends onthe reg.

#2 terminal jumps over to the charge lug.

#1 terminal runs to the 'coil' side of yuor ignition switch.. thru either a lamp or diode.

if using a lamp.. get either a trailer marker lamp.. like a 194 bulb.. or a dash panel mount lamp..

if using a diode, a radio shack 276-1661 or 276-1141 will work.. or a 1n5408.. heck.. I've used anemic little 1a/50piv diodes with no problem..

the diode will have a stripe on one end.. that is the cathode.. install it towards the alternator #1 terminal.

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

both have internal regulators..

soundguy

 

[RodinNS]

The 1 wire won't charge as quickly, but it's simpler to wire because you don't need to figure out the wiring to the ignition... not that it's really complicated. It's just less wiring.

Of the 3 wire alt's, there is a 10DN and a 10si. The 10DN is an older, externally regulated alt that looks basically identical to the 10si except the terminals are lettered instead of numbered...

I prefer the 3 wire, 10si because it's internally regulated (less parts and wiring) and you can wire an indicator light with it. You can't wire an indicator light with the 1 wire, so you're restricted to using an ammeter or volt meter for a charge indicator. VM's are OK, ammeters not so much... A 194 indicator bulb is cheap, simple and reliable.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't expend the effort to change from one to the other regardless of what I had IF IT'S WORKING. If it failed, it would get a 10si.


Rod

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 22:34:10 05/11/09) The 1 wire won't charge as quickly, but it's simpler to wire because you don't need to figure out the wiring to the ignition... not that it's really complicated. It's just less wiring.

Of the 3 wire alt's, there is a 10DN and a 10si. The 10DN is an older, externally regulated alt that looks basically identical to the 10si except the terminals are lettered instead of numbered...

I prefer the 3 wire, 10si because it's internally regulated (less parts and wiring) and you can wire an indicator light with it. You can't wire an indicator light with the 1 wire, so you're restricted to using an ammeter or volt meter for a charge indicator. VM's are OK, ammeters not so much... A 194 indicator bulb is cheap, simple and reliable.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't expend the effort to change from one to the other regardless of what I had IF IT'S WORKING. If it failed, it would get a 10si.


Rod

"VM's are OK, ammeters not so much... A 194 indicator bulb is cheap, simple and reliable. "

Opinions, opinions, opinions. Some of us have the ability to read all three.

 

[RodinNS]

Well 3 stars for you.

I can understand them all quite well too, but neither one of the gauges really shows you any more than the idiot light in most situations.
Ammeters tend to float around zero so much that it's hard to tell at a glance just what they're showing if they're wired to show battery charge/discharge and volt meters often float around (or don't read accurately) so much that they're not overly meaningfull. The simple light shows when the alt has output voltage exceeding batery voltage, which is all I care to know on a daily basis.

Rod

 

[Jred]

actually the #2 is the voltage sensing terminal and "should" be wired back to the battery, that way it can compensate for voltage loss through the wiring.

if your wiring is in good shap though this shouldent be a problem, my tractor has it looped to the output to :wink:

 

[Jred]

(quoted from post at 21:54:08 05/11/09) Well 3 stars for you.

I can understand them all quite well too, but neither one of the gauges really shows you any more than the idiot light in most situations.
Ammeters tend to float around zero so much that it's hard to tell at a glance just what they're showing if they're wired to show battery charge/discharge and volt meters often float around (or don't read accurately) so much that they're not overly meaningfull. The simple light shows when the alt has output voltage exceeding batery voltage, which is all I care to know on a daily basis.

Rod

i am actually just going through this on my Jubilee were i added a voltmeter. turns out my short battery life was due to my alt putting out around 17 volts. a light would not have cought that, a volt meter is the best way to quickly tell the state of a charging system in my humble opinion.

 

[Anonymous-0]

i have a alt with tach drive